bheinen74

why, how, is 3 related at all to anything in you post? 98 trans who cares, you are talking a D/R which is nothing here in usa later than 93 so not sure what your ? about a 98 applies

I would crush it cause i see some rust? yeah glad you saved it from the rust.

" I've notice the manual says that 1200 mi/qt is acceptable" now, everyone on here, why would the dealer help him out, it is within limits according to documentation. AGAIN, i ask what oil type, and to recommend changing to different oil brand and see .... I am not saying this is right but a dealer isn't going to do squat..but changing brands of oil may be the best fix.

Hey Carl. is this for the Trike you and i talked of.

seeing this, maybe I should open a Subaru shop here....

I do not see intake gaskets on your list either. or water pump... Last time I was helping do a dohc 2.5, parts were 515 for it all, maybe more if you do the water pump. for sure, no need for head bolts new......re-use the ones on there, who is this dealer? recommending headbolts is a slap in your face. dealers around here may slap people around from what i have seen firsthand by many. is this Ramsey? they suck. are you on https://www.facebook.com/groups/192535348549/ the iowa subaru club facebook? i would get on there ask more about Ramsey, cause that group know more than i do, i refuse to go there, but some on the group have and let me tell you, they will warn you based on their use of that place.

It needs a "Quattro" badge on the back with those mats in there lol:lol: did anyone else notice the A pillar on the passenger side is all messed up, like it is bondo'd or something of that sort....

for some reason that thing reminds me of this from when i was a kid

My thoughts. keep driving it, and do the repairs as needed. Keep your eye on craigs liek a hawk, and only try to get one with less than 110k on it to replace yours with. Don't be in a hurry, when one comes up that is nice and low mileage, pull the trigger and get it before someone else does. In the meantime, you can continue to drive yours as though you will keep it another year, or two. It may take than long for the right one to come up. Change your t-belt when you want, you can drive it til it snaps, no harm done but you will get left stranded when it snaps.

when it comes to cars, I have always been really picky. I like to have Whine with my wine.

Everyone says the new ones you need the automatic to crawl hills, the torque converter acts similar to low range at low rpm climbs. I had a 4eat turbo, and it would crawl, the 5spd, not even close to the same. Your newer era engine is much better at being power producing responsive, so it can compensate some, but nothing like the old D/R with hi and lo.

Might be the type of oil. I have read lots on Mobil1 oil it burns in these newer ones. Most people who use Mobil1 say the same. What oil are you using, change it to something else, Castrol, Valvoline, Rotella, etc. something about mobil1 being TOO thin for the boxer design, pushes it past the rings on the bottom of the block. Normally, thin is better, cause it lubricates more places, but not on the boxer i guess.

another option is to keep it and make it into a hatchbrat. Someone on here did that to a white one, they bobbed the back, and cut off the roof right behind the B pillar, and it looks pretty good.

The "dogbone" arch cover? #2 here? http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2003/SUBARU/LEGACY/?siteid=216335&vehicleid=1418150&diagram=7522565

every car eventualy will need brake work at some point xx miles down the road. It is not a 900 dollar job. It is about 150-275 parts only for all 4 rotors, pads etc. It is not rocket science, it is one of the easier things to do on a car, like changing a alternator, radiator hose, battery etc. If you do not feel comfortable tackling this job, then someone here may do so for you. That 900 is a slap in the face of anyone. Either do it yourself, have someone else do it for the 200- 325 range, or get a car with a warranty. You will eventually have this on any car, and your shop obviously is taking advantage. My second best advice is to shop around for a normal price. And, pretty doubtful the trans need replaced, there are small plastic/nylon bushing that attach to the shifter and they wear out. parts cost is again, like 3 dollars or so, maybe up to 10 bucks. Again, it is unthread the nut from the bolt, remove the old worn bushings, install new parts, push bolt thru, attach nut. done. If i come off as ann a#s on here, that is not what i wanted, i just feel you maybe are in over your head on a older Subaru. And for sure, the shop is taking full advantage. Would you feel comfortable changing your oil and filter?

after reading the comments, lucky this guy didnt throw rocks into his skull, arms, or others.

Kind of a jack a$$ not even wearing a helmet, darwin will get this guy, but who cares he is rich right. bet he breaks stuff lots. I wouldnt want be around when he breaks and axle and that wheel goes flying off. About 6 mnutes in proves he is idiot. lol his wheel is off, lol like in monty python, look, you have no arms, so what i will bleed on ya.

snow wheeling. and both of us are stuck.

Ok I just went to the seafoam site, it states keeps gas stable for 2 years. thanks

I never new anything but "stabil" worked. Seafoam, really, as a gas stabilizer? never knew that. I have run 3 year old gas, without any stable, and was fine. But that was premium from Amoco, the ultimate grade. Every year i deal with a car with at least 1 year old gas in it.

Good post not many of these around. You have to replace the "drive gear" and the "driven gear" as a set. My most recent replacement i used part numbers for a turbo 3.9, and they were white with black on the small gear i believe The old set coming out was green with white i believe. Anyhow, the old big gear was smaller, than the new replacement set big gear. On the new small gear, it was bigger, so they match correctly..... I think my speedo is still about right, I changed to 15" from a 14" anyhow, and went a size taller due to snow tires.. good thread.

your new autozone alternator is junk. It may test ok at their machine, but the voltage regulator is shot in it, and it is probably charging 19v, and you are about to fry everything. Do not put a Autozone alternator on the car. Go get a used oem one, or borrow one from a buddy on here lives close by.

The title on my red 85 EA81 hatchie 4wd says weight: 2300

I would think taking bets which state the engine pops would be fun. I bet going in the high rockies is where.

I wouldn't dare try to make that long trip from CA, thru the rockies, and all the way to WI, UNLESS it has proven documentation supporting a recent headgasket, radiator, new coolant hoses, and thermostat, and new water pump. That is a list of neccessary all things if one is not proven done, no way I would even attempt That thing overheats easily as it was, so yeah look at breaking down from overheat, and possibly seizing or blowing it up. Wold been cheaper to have it shipped, 950-1000 to ship but at least it would make it here intact. Your flight out, or train ticket, your gas coming back in it, food stops, place to stay overnight, and the risk of needing repairs that cost more than you could do it, waiting in the middle of nowhere Nevada or Nebraska for 3 days for the parts store to get you a new water pump in, etc. this is not a smart thing to do without those documents proving new items.