bheinen74

waterpump maybe if not the alternator.

what is the paint code, I am seeing 2 colors on that BRAT.

Napa axles suck on a Subaru. May I ask why you went with napa axle, since they suck out the box when new even, I cannot drive a car with them for many miles before I toss them, and toss them far in the trash. wow. good luck,

Okay So I thought to start a new thread on rust, and the EA81 BRAT/ EA81 Hatchback GL DR 4wd. Do people know why they rust at the rockers. I got a new to me 85 hatchie, and it has some spngy soft spots on lower rockers, now my BRAT is 100% solid, but i want to knowa how to prevent it The damage looks as if water is entering the substructurem but not escaping. so maybe drill some holes.......to help thoughts please.

seems like the west coast ones they can;t give away for free, and then here in the midwest we can't come across any for less than they sold for new.

Ithink my brat is 0-60 in 17.5 no joke. I think my 94ss is 0-60 in 14.6 I think my crx si in 0-60 in 15 I think my 94lgt is about 17.5 I think my 91 Hona hatch is about 15.7 I think my 85 hatchie is about 18

Wow good luck don't want it cutting out, should be a simple cheap repair once you find the issue. most hardware stores have enough parts to fix these. Re-post the issue, hose, FP etc.

No no emission here. I have a good one off my old brat before i webered it, on the shelf. I would like to not have to use one, if the cats won't get damaged without. This car has new cats now. I also think the reason it didn't pas emission in CO was due to this shortly failing. It sure melty on me.

^ sure why not these older ej22 legacies are bullet proof tanks. in this forum, in 100 years down the road, these old ej22 will still be running, as well as the older ea81's so yeah rok them however we can.

I have read, and re-read, and reread again the first post for your question, and did not see that part.. Actually the post more was like i found this, and now what? not asking a specific question. So you found this lsd fiff in the car, then found the stub in the trunk, then ????/ please be more clear i am sorry i cannot tell you more yet.

^^ tape off your radiator support next time, i see some splatter of the rubbing compound above right light .... good job. the poster probably talke of hella 500 even with polish, the light yellow in 3-4 months. repeat as necessary.....

It is a reverse snap ring. It is designed to have a little movement smaller to the axle stub shaft when you pop it into the carrier. Think of it this way, Think just a regular snap ring that you spread and put over a shaft. This one, the snap ring compresses smaller while it is inserted into the diff carrier, then it spreads back once in place at that lock it in. It has outward pressure ....

I am going to plan to fix the rust once spring thaw is here. rockers have some rot already starting to come on good. Main thing is to get some new seats in the front for now, and address the interior cosmetics, and replace whatever is bad, broken or missing. It has a junky new, but reman axle is front that is wobbly, so that has to go ASAP. And, it has a bearing going out on the passenger rear. It got somewhat worse on the drive back, and I can move the wheel hub with the car on ground slightly, and it is more noisy at first goes away some when driving. Even though it would not pass CO emissions, it runs rally strong and healthy down the road, so the carb will not be touched, unless the particles from the ASV cause issues later.

Changed oil and filter, changed out the tires. Just brought it home yesterday. It broke down on my way here, see that post for more.

just unloaded the spares. time to clean out the garage again and get my labeling skills worked on.

already changed the tires. Fronts were good, but backs not as good. Now they all match perfect.

melty changing oil and filter now, oil is draining right now.

Do you have a price idea yet? Just asking, cause if it is in a certain range i would be up for maybe 5 or 10... for gifts etc.. Probably all i could afford for me is 2-3 depends on your price, but maybe you could work lower prices with more up front orders?

Ben I am going to go to my bed and die for like a day now. It is not rust free, it is missing some of the front side rail, and some on the back passenger quarter in front of the tire. The repair job got me all good and greasy, and no good handsoap, and the restrooms at truck stops never got me all good and clean. I looked like amess whenever going in to pay for gas. Next trip, I will take orange hand cleaner.... k, off to go die for some sleep, oh, and I have a good air suction valve from my BRAT when i webered the BRAT, but one is NOT going back on the hatchie, or any car i have. The full throttle while going 75mph and needing to slow down could have been much worse, and i am not gonna have one fail again.

Friday night I took amtrak out to Denver to pick up BigAls' hatchie he had forsale. Amtrak broke down 2 times, we were without a conductor for a half hour while a rested one showed up. Saw the Lunar eclipse this morning on the way into Denver, 4 hours late... Picked up the hatchie from Alex. Looked things over good, got gas, aired the tires, checked oil etc. I brought like 3 of the most common failing items with me: Dizzy, alternator, and a alt/water pump pulley belt.... Took it pretty easy the first 60 miles, getting used to the car, watching guages good, etc, seeing how it was going to do. About 100 miles in, felt pretty comfortable, til I was keeping up with the other traffic. Then around 130 miles, ut oh,... Problem: I ease up on the gas after passing a car, cause a truck is up ahead, mind you i am now going along at 70-75mpg. But, when i let up the gas, no throttle cut, I try pulling up gas pedal with foot, it is up. I glance over and there is a off ramp, so i look for any cars clear, quick shoot over to the ramp, turn ignition off, clutch in, coast to the stop sign. I decided i would try one restart, and full throttle, so immediately off it goes. I pop the hood, look at throttle looks good. Take off air cleaner top, see black plastic shreds, shards of black plastic. Look over to what was the air suction reed valve. proceed to clean what i could see of the top of the air cleaner. one more start, full throttle still. There is a sidewalk there at the exit and a station downhill about 1/4 mile, this turns out one of the sterling exits. So, I push it up the sidewalk, and proceed to roll it with me in it down the sidewalk, to the right turn, to the station, and into a parking spot, it rolls downhill well. So, what do i do? Well, I get the flashlight out. I have spot in daylight to work at the station. Pull off the air cleaner housing, associated hoses. It hardly works without jarring it. I can see more bits of plastic holding the throttle plates almost full open, well yeah i knew it would start and free to about 4200rpm so not 100% full. So i get my axle roll pin punch out, and some pliers, and push, down into the carb whatever makes the throttle close again. start it to give it a try, yay it has idle speed back again. Look over at what is left of the air suction valve. it is melted goo off the side. Pull it off. Give dad a call, ask him what he knows about the air suction reed valve. He doesn't know, but all I know is there is exhaust gases that shoot out, hot, not good, so what do I do? Yep, the QUARTER trick. block it off. I had the tools to do it with me Anyhow, That took like 1.5 hours to fix. Drove it home the remaining 620 miles, watching guages, checking stuff quite often. I just pulled home about 1:30 AM.

alternator bearing?

Is the radiator level low, and the resevoir tank level high? Are you getting lots of airbubbles in the overflow when the car is running?

Isthe radiator level low, and the resevoir tank level high? Are you getting lots of airbubbles in the overflow when the car is running?

I will buy 2 as well.

nice; I can tell it must have been well taken care of, to look that good with the miles. Treat it well, it will do the same to you.