bheinen74

removed the LGT stock wheels. Installed my spare 94SS wheels, which have freshly mounted Winterforce snow tires. I scored the set of 4 snows on craigs for 100 bucks, and my friend mounted them yesterday changed oil in my 94SS. It hadn't been changed in almost a year...no worries, only 2800 since changed last. Car has been in storage most that year.

there should be a way to run different tires on the back, with front diff of say 3.9 and rear diff of say 3.54 with some math to fine what size tire will turn the same Revolution, so to those who say this cannot be done, they are not right. the tire size and ratio for rear diff of back can be adjusted to whatever the front is.. This is obviously not done yet. running x diameteter yires on back wit diiff ratio can b done. most are too lazy for the math.........

the best one

yep so true. Around here, people watch me drive by in any one of my Soobies. I give then encouragement...that they can get to work if they had a scoobb.

My post on reman'd got deleted, and it showed the real issue. what gives mods? everyone else is here and there posts remain????? not happy, gave good advice too.

nice videos to watch, they are good long videos showing what a Subaru is capable of traversing. thanks for the share.

cool link thank you. Looks better and better..

usuallynobody has much good luck with reman. 1. The boots on them are much thinner rubber and crack so so so easy in a short time, and when they crack they throw grease out and die soon. 2. The tolerances of the joints are not high, they knock a lot as well. 3. They are known to be bad right out of the box. Who cares about the lifteime warranty on a reman when they are junk. I think you post sums it up, they are not worth the hastle. How is that lifetime warranty treating you, are you tired of it yet.... Immediatley toss the reman in the garbage, and go get a nice OEM one, or a used oem one. The lift kit is not the issue if you installed all lift blocks; the lift kit preserves axle geometry 100%.

or you have too much weight in the back, like carrying tools, etc, or bodies. or in my case a 120 sheepdog and a 55pund terrier.

Yeah sounds like the installed lift kit is incomplete. You can correct your problems by making sure the crossmember blocks are the same spacing as the strut blocks. Or, you can remove the lift kit Or, you are putting in junk axles.

^ mkay on page 5-8 step 15 "Install the pitching stopper as follows: a)Insert pitching stopper rod into the bracket on the engine side, and tighten it at the car body side using a nut. Tigthen the rear nut on the pitching stopper of the engine side so that the specifid clearance exists be- tween the rubber cushion and the washer. Specified clearance MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in) AT 1.8 - 2.2mm (0.07 - 0.09 in) c) attach a wrench to the rear nut on the pitching stopper of the engine side to prevent it from turning, and tighten the front nut securely. Torque 1.0 - 1.8 kg-m (7-13 ft-lb NOTE Always make a precise adjustment of the pitching stopper to prevent the engine from vibrating during operation. Then on page 5-16 step 22) Adjust the pitching stopper as follows: a) Loosen nut until the pitching stopper on the bracket (on the engine side) is free to move. Tighten the rear nut until the rub- ber cushion-to-washer clearance is within the specified value MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in) AT 1.8 - 2.2 mm (0.07 - 0.09 inc) etc... Now, that somes it up mkay

If you adjust it too much one way, the throttle cable can pull more on the carb.... it can affect adjustment of the hlll holder/clutch cable, etc. It can significantly change the exhaust y-pipe angle where it is under the floor board, how close the y pipe comes to the floor, etc... so....it is there to be adjusted properly, and if it is wrong, you will cause excess where on the U joint to the driveshaft..... cheeers.

I do not have my SVX any more, but I thought the bottom on it was smooth, so not sure, looks different off my memory. Surely, someone with a SVX will see this, post, not knowing they even have the storage tray, and they will go look and take a pic to let us know. You could easily make your own storage tray, with some angle steel, some metal screws, and a storage drawer organizer / rubbermaid thing.

You should probably adjust the pitchrod stopper nuts so that the center driveshaft is plumb. You want it to go straight from the rear of the trns to the front of the rear diff. No angles. A bubble level might help you do this, when the car is parked on level ground.

^ most people didn't realize that seat box came on the SVX too.

I purchased a 95 L wagon a few years ago for 200 with a bad knock, proceeded to drive it home the 8 miles to my house from where I purchased it, the engine let go 4 miles from my house, hole in the top of the block. I pulled the junk motor out, and sold the car with a ej22 that looked good, but not installed. I sold it for 700..........so i netted about 400 profit.

^ I disagree, in the CTS being failed, I have come across more than a handful of them, when they fail, it causes sluggish performance, especially when the car is warming up, and they are more obvious is cold weather times. It causes slight hesitation while accelerating from a stop, say onto a highway. Failed ones also cause mileage mpg drop. They do fail. they do not throw codes when they do.

If this happened on a public city street, you need to send them copies of photos, and copies of the repair bill. They should reimburse you. Call the pothole hotline, we have ten around my area, bet you do as well. if this happened on a private or business property, send them the bill.

This cannot be supported when rain puddles up over the tank openings say during flash floods or something, and enters the filling opening...

Lol my town is exit 191 on I-80. We used to have fuel mart and it had an excellent trucker stop restaraunt, 20 years ago it closed 9 years ago We used to have citgo station directly on opposite side of road of fuel martand it had a eatery. It closed 3.5 years ago. My town had a Sinclair Mini-mart, it cloese 2.6 year ago, in town all on exit 191. I have to buy jerry cans, and I have to drive 8 miles to the nearest gas station to get gas. The last time i filled up in my 94 Legacy Touring wagon, at the supposed amoco station at exit 197, 6 miles in year 2005, my legacy turbo knocked, bucked, and kicked. It ate a valve. I called Amoco of USA, got no feedback. Well about year 2009, that station also closed. Sucks to be in Iowa in a bad economy. And it kills turbo cars. I am down to 1 turbo car now, versus what i had then, about 4 turbos. Iowa sucks and so does ethanol. so, i forgot the question......

alternator? I have seen new batteries that are BAD out of the stores. But not usually 2 in a row. So yeah, alternator.

I am going to assume this situation is like most I have seen: No records on last time gear oil was drained and filled...... that means, that even the cheap stuff is going to make it feel like new. that is also the same people who never had records, switched to hi price stuff, and they also say it is like new. So, people, please, change out gear oil 50k or sooner. use the cheap stuff, you will be 100% happy and fine. enjoy your new shifting.

Redline is mostly not worth anywhere near the price it fetches. I always use normal gear oil, follow the owners manual for the weight. It is better to stick with cheap stuff, and change it more often, You are not going to enjoy changing redline very regularly, well my bank account sure would keel over if i used it.

I am jobless and have been for over a year. I am thinking of trying to provide me some income selling these at 24 shipped each. so yeah secret. anybody want some for 24 shipped?

not much to add, what has been said is pretty solid. If you are at all concerned with good gas milage, then do not get a turbo'd car. They use more gas, are high performance vs economy, and the gas they require is premium, so higher pump price. Please post on here what you look at. The 98 Forester, and 98-99 outbacks will have a DOHC 2.5 EJ25 engine, and that one eats headgaskets for breakfast lunch and dinner, and desert. Now, just saying that to caution you to look for maintenance history on the headgaskets on those DOHC engines. They are still okay engine if they have been repaired and new Subaru oem headgaskets installed before showing the signs. You do not want one that has been repaired with autozone, napa, fel pro etc, Head Gaskets. you also do not want one that has not been headgasketed', cause if you are paying 4grand you can get ones that are done right. So please post as much info you can at what you go look at before jumping the gun. Too many come on here only after purchasing one and its the same ole same ole.......cold heat, loosing coolant, overheat after 30 minute drive, etc. My family (parents and brother have the dreaded DOHC engines) but they have caught them in time and did maintenance to the T using all Subaru made parts. Proper torqque, etc. I expect both those cars to run another 150k before needing the headgaskets addressed again, but then he cars will have 300k+.