bheinen74

McBrat did it to a maroon hatchie.

all it is. If it was me, black electrical tape would fix it for good.

is it black?

Well, won't fit a 92 Legacy Turbo sedan or Turbo wagon.....but yeah any other model be fine. (14" won't clear front brakes on the Turbo models).

85 BRAT Gl in original factory paint, still no panel repaints on this one.

remember .89 gallon sunoco back in say 1990

OEM thermostat, less than 10 bucks with the gasket. go to junkyard pull rear hatch off junky car, they sell them for 45 i think. also you can try anti fog stuff http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-AF21212-Anti-Fog/dp/B0009H5W5W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1321415628&sr=8-3 Problem fixed less that 57 bucks and your time. make sure you don't get one that your ex dog clawed up .

cool what year elco, my dad has a sweet 65.

no, use regular coolant, the green colored stuff. I buy mine at Oreilly in the black jug, and I buy the 100% concentrate, then mix 50/50 with distilled water before i fill it. Make sure heater select is on hottest, raise the front of the car so it sits higher than the back, and fill coolant. Then start car with cap off let run enough to circulate and top off. Then drive for 4-5 minutes with cap on. Let cool off, then top off in the morning when it is cold. NEVER fill a hot engine with cold coolant.

wow how about tar and feather. feathers are light, and tar is well, nice and sticky to hold the feathers down. feathers reject moisture, i am brilliant

Is JB weld as durable as sand cast aluminum? why not use concrete, that stuff is strong and takes pressure. errr... Get a turbo block and be done. reliable. lots of stock ej22t blocks out there with 300k miles or more on them and still pulling like a freight train. I am done.

would this work http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-215191-American-Accents-Metallic/dp/B0017I3DL2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=IMD02SQHK552X&colid=3G96Q3O4M0GJF thanks

I know there is a product to paint on the rear defrost broken grid wires....but have searched and cannot find the name of it. anyone? I have 5 scratched on the middle section of my lgt. Would like to get this taken care of before winter mode. and does the stuff work.

what ecu are you using, the JDM i would have to hope. If you have the JDM intake runner, and sensors, then you also use the jdm ecu for that. If you have a usdm ecu, then you need the harness and sensors for that ecu. more info is needed.

Wow, lets try a 3rd shop. Maybe the shops up there are even worse than the ones here, I am starting to think so. at most, valve covers gaskets on a Subaru shold cost no more than 200 total......that is parts and labor. ( add sigificant to my estimate if you are talking SVX, or any H6 type engine, the rails on those are rididculously close and make that job hard)

priceless.... $78,000 that is more than my house cost

depending on the year and model of Subaru, there are many relays, switches, and control boxes under the carpeting, everything from seatbelt reminder stuff, to airbag controls, to ABS control, etc, even fuel pump stuff

I just cannot understand why the shops in this part of the US are so terrible. Just this past weekend, on the Facebook Iowa Subaru Club, someone just got their car back from Ramsey (the worst Subaru dealer in the nation). This is the post "Kyle Den Hartog just got my car back from Ramsey from getting the radiator and timing belt changed. Long story short I now have 4 cylinders misfiring."

Forester struts and springs would be the better choice.

Actually, I am not surprised at the prices they quoted you based on location. Now, are they correct in that it needs all that service, No, but again, not surprised of the list they gave you based on shops like that around here are the same. Now, do you need to have that shop work on the car, no. Would I sell it or fix it. fix it at a reasonable shop but not that xmas list of stuff. Too bad dealers are like that where you live, they are the same here. "1. Headgasket leaking oil to the outside - (that is about 500 in parts including new tbelts) 2. Sterring gear leaking power steering fluid - (that is a 50 cent o ring needing replaced) 3. Spark plug holes are full of oil from the valve cover gaskets - wires are oily (all new gaskets on the valve covers and bolt seals and new plug wires, cost is 85) 4. Oil leaks at oil cooler adapter to block (whatever, probably using some inferior oil filter and if changed to good one no leaks) 5. Brakes have 40% left, warped rotors (new brake paas and rotor each whel is 70) "

the left nut (lol) is usually the tightest. but then even if the nut busts (lol) you may have a stuck axle if you are in the midwest..

And if you give up, i have one with the nut already off, but the axle is seized into the hub and the end is now smooshed after using a press, all after the normale soak with penatrent, braas hammer, bigger braas hammer, nothing, take to a press, and the press did not get it either....\\ free ornament, axle was good so was hub except outer boot was tore.

this is cool too

I like this one better