bheinen74

not quite.... Forester is different.

check pm. brent

Good call. Did you have a cel or code present before? Every Subaru I have owned with a EJ has had them cracked, some small cracks, some the Grand Canyon, only half caused a CEL code. They are a routine maintenane replacement item. I I replace mine every tune up now.

Last weekend I swapped out the fuel sending unit/whole fuel pump assembly with one ShawnW was kind enough to get for me, to try to get the gas guage working. That was a no go, still no worky fuel guage Thursday I repaired the rear window defrost grid lines with the Permatex defrost repiar kit (see my other thread on that process), and have gone from like 8 lines not working to only 1 not working. big difference. Today I was able to get another try at fixing the gas guage. This time, I actually went to junkyad and pulled the fuel guage portion out of a dash cluster. Got home, and decided to go ahead and swap them. Okay, so I think that part is working, I did my best to get the guage needle in the right spot for how much fuel i have in the tank. Got gas the other night, filled up, and drove about 78 miles since then, so i put the needle right a tad above 3/4 full with the car running. Prior to installing the marker pointer, I had the car off, and put the pointer on lightly with the marker to empty. Knowing I had a near full tank, I started the car, and the guage was slowly moving to fuller like it was supposed to. So I popped the pointer back off gently, let the car idle for a few minutes for the guage to even out, and popped it bak on where it should be after driving for 75-80 miles, right above the 3/4 mark. Okay, started to inspect why the old guage was not working. HELLO. When i bought this car the speedo was only working part time. And the gas guage was dead the first minute i drove the car cause i filled up the mile down the road from when I purchased the car. So, turns out the screwball mechanic who worked on this before me, who I now assume had the speedo cluster out to try and get the speedo to work, had smashed/shorted out the 2 diodes for the gas guage......It was obvious upon inspection. So, I have fixed it. I can really call out the mechanic who previous did work on this a total screwball. He had changed the alternator, but knocked the oil pressure switch connector off. He had put ATF in the front diff instead of gear oil. He has smashed said fuel guage He has installed cheapy plug wires that kept coming off the driver front spark plug, which when i started it up the said it started to miss, and i found that issue before even buying the car. OMG I am ranting on this. At least I will get the car back to tip top.

Ordered the permatex stuff off Amazon, and used some advice from the reviews on there before I started my project. The bottle is dinky dinky. But the stuff really goes along ways, i have tons left. First advice, use blue painters masking tape instead of the packaged grid thing. Second, cut 75% of the bristles off the brush supplied with the permatex kit, you only need a small amount of bristles on the brush. I had I think 7 or 8 grids that were not functioning to start with. After following the instructions, i proceeded to peal off the tape after letting dry for 20 minutes. One grid the repair stuff pulled up some with the tape, not much, but I waited 24 hours to try them out, as directions state. All my grids but 2 were functional. One of those is the part where the tape pulled it up some. The other one, i don't really see any issue so meh. I have just gone out and touched up the one where the tape pulled, and will assume it will be fine now. I pulled the tape off right away after the 3rd application. I would pull the tape off after 5 minutes, even though the instruction says wait 20min. Will report back. Hope this can be of some help.

Yeah agree with you on the AC. These cars only have like what 71HP anyhow, and not like they can hardly be driven 65mph tops anyhow, so no one is gonna be able to want the AC to rob the higway piower, HP etc. Windows work just fine. If a car had already workig AC, then yeah fine, But to buy a AC it for 50 bucks, and spend 200 bucks to have a shop cahrge it, is not much sense to me either, more pics needed soon.

recalls are easy to find go to the following nhtsa link, and submit your type, make, model, year. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

I was at a auction inspecting a Baja that I might have put some bids on, until i popped the hood, pulled out the oil dipstick, hardly any oil was registering, and what was there was black. Then i looked at the oil change sticker on the corner of the windshield, said oil change due at miles 113k. Looked at odo, it showed 118k. So they drove it 5k past the oil change.....and ran it low on oil too. I walked away from the car. Besides the body work needed, it would be needing a new 2500 $ engine shortly. It is not hard to find good ones out there, with good maintenance records. If no records are there, run, fastly. But, on this one, a simple check of the oil at a gas fillup would have been very wise for the bank account.

82-87 in the USA, but they were available up to model year 1993 In Australia, New Zealand, and a few european areas.

If you are planning on getting a BRZ at some point, might as well join the forum located here http://www.subarubrzforum.com/

In the owners manual it will show the allowed difference in tires, which is not much. You take a string and measure around the tires curcumference of the center tread block to determine how close they are. The acceptable limit needs looked up in your book, but memory says it allows 1/8/ or 1/16th inch difference in circumference, measured around the center of the tire. It is a critical thing to make sure you are within spec, or expensive damage to the tranmssion may occur due to wear of them being off sized. (actually damage WILL occur, so my may is not to be taken lightly)

there is a lift kit on craigs right now http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/2703458986.html There never was a whole lot of these made, and they are a rare find so if you have any inkling for one of these, it would be a wise gift

over the last 3 years, i have managed to do pretty well on a few used tires on Ebay, locating the exact same brand, make, model, size tires, and going by the pics and tread depth listed to match up. I got my brother a good year RS-A eagle or whatever he needed for his 02WRX. I got myself a used hankook ventis for one that I had run on my red94SS when it had a bad alignment and had worn one down. The one i got on Ebay turned out a perfect match to the other 3 tread patterns and wear.I was then able to install on my other 94SS which Mick now has. It takes some time. But I have bookmarked a few good sellers that i have gotten good tires from, usually the tires run between 24-50 shipped. That is much cheaper and smarter than buying 4 new ones. Be patient, it helps to have a a few crappy backup cars while waiting on finding a good one.

air way down, you need the tire tread to bend/shape to the sand surface, not push hard down into the sand. So when you air down lots, the tire squishes and doesn't push down and into the sand. You float on top. Make sure you take a portable 12v air compressor to air back up when you get back onto the parking lot.

My94 GT rack is not like most of the ones i have seen in the yards, it is not like the 95-98's but it is like my brothers 99. It is definitely not the same as the 91-94 Legacy Wagons, they did something special for the raised roof 94GT. They are all different.

hmmm My 94 LGT roofrack is identical to my brothers 99 outback roof bars. but i have been to many junkyards and they are all different in a few minor ways. There are multiple variations.

I have seen the lower control arms on ebay new OEM for 65 bucks. The west coast has plenty of rust free ones, but they tend to "taco" bend and it is a crap shoot to buy used without a picture. A picture will show it bent or not when you are used to dealing with bent ones. Rust free used stuff is better than new price

Wow a NSU, like show more pics, these were a rotary car from Germany if i am right. I know someone who sold one to Jay Leno. It was like brand new infact. Every part on the car was shipped over from Germany, or was made new custom. NSU is awesome, so post some pics.

great information in this thread indeed. thank you. I may try a go at one from the junkyard, just the pulley / bearing parts.

Hats off, well done on the center cyclops light. You and myself, are the rare ones I know of who actually have the oem relay for it, and such. Nice. I actually bought a $700 parts BRAT strictly to get the entire setup from switch to relay, to light, just so I could have one complete. Then i stripped the BRAT and sold it as a running thing.

Firstly please state your year and model of car you are dealing with. oops. I see 2001 . Secondly, a compression test on certain motors will never show a failed headgasket, since they blow exhaust portion of the gasket, not compression portion. More info needed. When was the last service for water pump, coolant, etc.

Its not salt anymore, it's MAG chloride, 50times worse. The stuff is killing bridges fast, power poles, anything next to the roads.....I wish they would just use rock salt/sand mix, but no, they have to use newest chemicals, which also, BTW, make the air quality suffer too. Time to take back what this country once was. sorry for my rant

are there any specialty tools needed. I too have had several of these with bad clutch bearings, but have just replaced the entire compressor on them. Would love some more pictures and details documenting this fix. In fact, i just had to cut the old belt off my 94LGT due to the bearing in the compressor head is really rattly metal to metal now.

I have read the recall notice. Basically, the dealer will inspect the front control arms, and do one of 2 things under recall warranty: 1. Replace badly rusted parts 2. Coat the rust-prone parts in paint to prevent further rusting. If someone is mechanically inclined and can get some por-15, rust bullet, rustoleum, ec, it can be done a home for the price of spray can, if you do not have rusted parts already. If you have really rusted parts, go get some new ones for free. It is becoming quite obvious the grade of metals has been cheapened at some point in the manufacturing process for several eras.

This is a proven way to kill duty C solenoid. This is a good idea and Subaru should start making them FWD, with the push button to go to 4WD, kinda like they used to make them. If engineered this way people could go to AWD only when they really need it. It would save many MPG in the long haul. I hope SOA monitors these boards every now and then.