bheinen74

and lube the slide ears for the brake bracket holders, after you wire wheel the rust off the bracket. It shouldn't take a pry bar to remove your brake pads, but in this case, it looks as if that will be needed......they are all sorts of messed up.

Good thread and information, pics. Snake skins, eewww..

Agree with what you say, they leak oil. So, either you deal with the oil burning off smell, and keep it topped off on oil (they weep not like a constant dripping) or change them out. Maybe not use synthetic, since it is a thinner oil, maybe use regular oils instead of synthetic might decrease the leaks. My former 06 turned out to need headgaskets too before 100k, due to oil leaking.

found another one nice for around here http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/ctd/2760077210.html

just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe. They will come loose with those tools, and your muscle.

Wow that is the cousin to my hatchie. Hope you can get things sorted out and back is not a longterm problem. If you decided to part it, I may be interested in some stuff.

Wow, nice job to get those miles up there. The car you chose, actually is the car, in my opinion, the best car on the market now, for the money and what you get. I factor in gas mileage and size immensely, and it is just right in size, features, cargo area, and should be a good one. I think if i was in the market for a new hatchback that is what i would replace my CRX or Civic with.

^ ah gonna Sachs i say. That is the brand, 12.65 each. BTW, on my 94 LGTwagon, the rear struts on it now are both "Rights" I was able to make a right one work even on the left with some bracket flipping. So, I suppose it will be on the old brackets welding to the new struts...

Better Milk that cow is what i would be saying.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=43480&p=326543&hilit=fender+gunk#p326543 the 96-99 outback does the same with gunk, so EVERYBODY on here, please clean this area unless you like rust.

That car is pretty much rust free for NW Missouri. Really doubt there are much better out there. the ones that are listed for 1000-1200 are the ones with holes in the fenders, doors, and quarter panels. I have watched craigs for 4 years within 7 states of Iowa, so Missouri, NE, IL, KS, SD, MN, WI, etc. and they are just not rust free. I can show you tons of much worse than this pics, but only a few that are better, and the ones better, are priced higher than 1800. The junk ones are 600.

Sounds like headgasket is shot, no use in replacing the water pump, or thermostat, or radiator. It needs new headgaskets. and a water pump while doing that. If you cooked it hot, then yeah new engine, and then you are taking more money than the car value is.Let me guess, about 137k miles?

All 1991 Turbo Legacy got the VLSD standard, automatics, 5speeds, every single one it was Standard equipment, ONLY for year 1991. It was not even optional on the 92-94, could not even be special ordered on 92+ since we have bumper the dead, thread of past, might as well add real facts.

"WTH, do you think happened? I had the coolant flushed about 2200 miles ago at a dealer just a FYI. Well, beings you just had service done, I do believe they left air in the system. Now you go the air out on the drive, and added your 1.5 cup coolant. BAD dealer job. Burping 101: need to have temp select to hot so the heater core fills. need to have front car raised higher than the back end, air gets to the highest point, which you want to be the radiator fill cap neck.... majority of air is caused by air in the heater core due to not have heat select to hot.

Just ordered 2 new hatch strut cartridges for the rear lid...... hope they are the right ones and work, already have 2 times now where had to prop open the back glass and don't plan to have to prop it ever again once these arrive.

thenpriced about right for ~1700 or less.

is this a FWD only wagon? if fwd only, then price needs to come down, lots. If he gets 1800 for that, then i should be able get 4200 for my 94 LGT with 48k miles on it.

Ben, that is because those mud terrains are like 25 years old that you have on there, and when that old, the rubber turns hard like a hockey puck, not soft and pliable like a tire newer than 4 years old is. Your tires are so hard when that old, it is just like a hockey puck on the ice rink, no ability to grip.

That is normal for those not on the forums. Recommend all owners to thouroughly use a hose to flush that area every wash time, until the water flows clear. Obviously the owner before did not read the forums to do so. Clean it out and always keep it clean, or you will have no fender left due to rust.

none of the places around here sipe..... we have to travel west for that.

Or, "your not the daddy" on Maury....He better hang on to it til the DNA test.

I wouldn't even bother with a gasket, just use RTV Ultra Grey. Thats what the new ones use, no gasket.

Seeing these kind of posts makes me ill. I can get titles to junky ones, to save the good ones like this. find out how much for the entire car as it sits, no title needed.

nice little video i found.

Ag good factory carb, rebuilt, in goood repair, should get you around 28-30mpg You will probably never get above 24-25 on a Weber. Weber gives you more grunt, more torque, more useable low speed power, but the weber performance drops off about 4500rpm, and anything above nets you nothing over the factory setup.