bheinen74

wow insurance companies are the biggest scam out there. 800 for a reliable car, with 4wd and good gas mileage. What do they expect you to find to replace it with those basic things for 800? I would be complaining to them fore double that hodge podge price.

That is the best car commercial, love it. COOL

There are a few engineering reasons why Subaru specifically recommends slightly more pressure in the front tires than back: does anybody know why this is important? It is because there is more weight in the front of the car typically, the engine and trans is up there so yeah, more weight. And we all know Subaru ires have to match in diameter so the transfer clutches do not see excessive wear. So a lightly higher weight in front, you need slightly higher pressure to keep the rolling diameter the same. If you do no follow the prescribed engineered higher pressure, you are essentially doing the same as if you had mismatched tires. they have engineered those PSI levels and posted it in the manual, and on the door sticker. For a reason. Engineers re not stupid (well i can say in general they are not) Same reason they say if you have high load weight, to increase the pressure to specified. You really do not want equal pressure on all 4 on a Subaru. You are damaging the drivetrain if you do. We should have a sticky on "mismatched tires and tire pressure"

The new 2012 Impreza wagon, is the same size as the former 2005-2009 Outbacks. As is the 2012 Impreza is now the size of the previous Legacy 05+ Thanks for your input too. I don't think I would ever need anything as large as the new Legacy platform, even the Impreza is becoming borderline TOO big bodysize. Is it because the overall population is that obese? Why can't Subaru make small cars again, small economy cars?

Maybe that was old school way for CA to reduce emissions, by installing a lower redline guage, so people are not wasting as much gas revving it out less. Sort of could see that as being the reason...

wonder the spring rate ^ classic.

34/32 rear or 35/33 something about that, anymore the ride suffer lots on bumps.

The only ones they list when you cick 80-84, are parts for 85+ so yeah, that is not going to fit proper. Original poster has asked if they make them for 80-84, and the answer is no they do not.

maybe the radiator petcock drain valve o-ring is shot. That would be on the right side for coolant puddle, also would the top radiator hose.

trying to match the blue front seats with the rest... dug this cargo shade out of my parts stash. Had to install the original side corners, which are in poor shape. I think i will redo the back seats in WRX fabric, so they match my front seats.

Every time i buy a Subaru, it gets: New air filter, immediate oil and filter change, and usually new plugs. Add to that new wiper blades, new hoses and belts, and usually a new battery. Also, usually install new tires. Then like in 18-20k I will put in new air filter.

when got it, it had 2 stickers on the back, "Get Hazed" and support Colorado small business. removed the stickers on the back today glued down this badge which car was missing when got it here is the stock shift knob pic turned over 213,400 the other day. found under the center console over 1.75in change. got another non-cracked tan dash lined up for it for this spring too. Paint is getting pretty tired, was showing lots of oxidation, I made it a little better for now with 3m scotch pad and some soapy wet sanding with it lightly.

suspect items: tire belt - or defectively manufactured cheapo tire. loose alignment bolts on the crossmember, lateral links bars worn bushings rust, frame rot general road grooving bearing in a wheel hub. Go to a different shop, doesn't sound like they are much help to you, and you have spent money on their services new shocks, new alignment. Second opinion is invaluable, something like a loose bolt could have gotten overlooked.

Not sure they make a new core for the older Subaru's. Remember reading many many posts on this, it is hard to even get the heater valve. Do you have a OEM from Subaru dealer thermostat? That is the biggest mistake not going OEM.

Cool and you have quite a rare one, pics will be nice. Not too many of these are owned, mainly just alot of pics floating around that is about all.

The few clues you have given would be indicative of moisture in the lines, freezing up. I would drain the entire brake system, bleed all new brake fluid all the way to each caliper piston. Brake fluid is one thing that draws/attracts moisture. It must be totally sealed when stored. If a cap is loose, or a seal is bad, it will draw moisture in. So, check your cap condition, and the seal on the fill resevoir, after completely flushing ALL the old fluid of your brake lines.

any core ej22t i worth 500 all day long, all year long. I have buyers i deal with on these. I consistently have gotten no less than 500 for the bare ej22t blocks, numerous times. No point in arguing the facts. That is what they go for. Then we are talking rear disc brakes on a Legacy Sport, it is a upgrade, for even the WRX, they are vented and big. Then, if you are talking a 91 Sport, it has a VLSD, that is another 150 low balled. see my drift, or not? If you dpn't see where this is going, too bad. Then you should spend some time, on the forums that discuss this. There are many. Then we can talk the turbo crossmember, it goes for say 65 lowballed, yes all day long all year round I get 200 for ej22 longblocks. that run in good shape. I have one of these right now for sale, includes intake, injectors, all sensors etc. If you se my sale thread, i have a 84 Brat, comes with a ej22 mounted, and one in the back. Adapter plate, 1 stripped harness, one that is 100% intact, etc and a good title BRAT for 1500 asking I will take less, I don't have a desire to get it going, it is a anchor

have had NO snow yet this winter in Iowa where I live.

it does come with the BRAT in the back too, both have titles, and spare engines too.

To this in the Brat: No fancy dyno and laptop needed to tune this baby!!! Your valve cover breather hoses are not hooked up right. And neither is the PCV. hope you get that fixed before you blow it up.

where they getting the gasket from? didn't think they were available, would like to know if they get one or not?

I have a Brat limited, it has the badge to prove it, and heated power leather seats. I got pics but it was dark. if you want i can take a pic of my Brat SiR with DOHC Vtec door stickers, and some good pics of the B16A with Y1 lsd too. Or if you want i can get some pics of the SS hubcaps on the BRAT, or the Z16badge. Oh, wait, I got a 22B brat too. My friend junked a ZR1 Brat the other day it was so rare I gave him a penny to watch it get crushed and he crushed it for my penny. Oh, my godmy brother has a GSL-SE brat too.

I hope you report back, otherwise you r the many who join and never come back. good thing we have join date and post count shown.

my extra ea81 cam sitting here, looks like there is a dowel from the front driven into the shaft, and that dowel look removable, from the front of it. so i would say it is possible. in fact, yes it is doable from what i know about dowel pins, and cotter pinch joints. It is a swedge joint from my look, so you have to grabe and hold the stopper, while to press and pull the gear off the cam

just getting the engine to operating temp often helps, that is pretty hot, not cherry red, but heat helps, and if you got no torch,