bheinen74

I wouldn't do it not here in Iowa. they are good for high performance track cars; which a BRAT is not. Reason I said not here in Iowa, cause those ncie pretty holes and nice shiny slots, will be ugly nasty rust after a little drive in the salty roads here. And then they will look worse than a regular solid disc. go ahead, but I doubt this turns out as expected.. I bet :the rust protected" is a fail. I would bet my hard earned money on that one. Even if they put it in writing and promise you new exchange they are going to rust and look terrible.

2 fuel lines from the separater to the carb reversed? one is the supply, one is the return line...

Sounds neglected, you said no oil on the dipstick. well, sounds like nobody cared for this. sure you want to go further?

have you ruled out that when he ran it out, he might have pumped junk into the carb and blocked something? Pretty sure the filter would have caught the crud first...but that sounds like a possible thing. carb cleaner? It was running good and starting good til the time he ran it out of gas?

going to go with a set of redrilled 6 lug wheels, 15" ; on stock 85 BRAT or stock 85 EA81 Hathcback. Both vehicles are staying stock for suspension, going with this size cause have numerous tires to choose from. These could possibly be mounted on either car depending on my mood. What is a good size that is not going to rub, something close to the stock 185/70R13? Don't really plan to do offroading just a good all season tire.

EA81 vehicles have 2 Fuel filters. One filter is near the pump, under the car. One is actually a fuel separator, under the hood. Most people do not know there are 2. but now they know.

Yeah definitely NEED to take the front covers and pulley off, and check the center cog make sure it is on the marks. I hope you used NGK plugs, and OEM plug wires, etc.

The only thing that is going to limit payout is prior condition there is not looking so good, door, bottom rocker, and quarter panel. it has rot, the tire looks balding. they will not give you full price just alone on the prior condition of the rust/roughness. Now the rest of the car may have been like new interior wise, so that will help offset. based on my only time dealing with a car i owned got hit by a semi (semi driver pulled into his back quarter going down the interstate at 65mph) when my brother was driving it. Well, the adjuster came out, documented that my car was rust free, had all 4 brand new tires with receipts showing purchase like 2 months prior, new shocks all 4, and shiny clean paint, clean inside, and he gave what the car was worth. he siad if the car had been worn out and rough they would have given like 2/3 less, but the car was nice, the adjuster even commented on yeah, that was a nice one, we will pay you to fix it.

yep, that is your issue.

Your timing belt is off a few teeth. Does the engine start pretty smooth for the first couple minutes, then shake after it has been run for like 4 minutes? I am asking because pretty much the only time i got those identical codes, that was the reason.

Installed the new hatch struts too for the back glass hatch shell. It stays open on its own now.

Another Iowa BRAT? You should keep whatever the intake stuff and emissions that the BRAT has, mean make whatever engine you put in have the same as what the one coming out had. -if that is possible. Make sure both starters are off to the side....

fastened down except for the back mounts. This time will just drill and tap the floor. The front bolt holes lined up and was able to use factory floor holes.

ej22t are sodium filled, and you need take precaution in handling, there is a service warning on it.

still waiting on the strut cartridges, even thought the tracking still today shows estimated delivery dec 21:( Picked up a set of 02 WRX impreza seats today for the front.

you bought an 800 dollar car. That is what I would expect. Just sell it for 500 and be done with it. Then, save up a little for something decent. Something decent is about 1500 upwards.

problem is you are getting junk reman'd aftermarket axles thru that shop. You want a solution, get some axles from Subaru or MWE. You can go with used axles, as long as they are oem subaru (Subaru has green cups on each end) 65 bucks each for good used oem ones. they are all over the ebay and car-parts. Go back to Monroe once those junk ones are removed, and toss them thru the window. You could try to demand your money back but that will get you oknow whwre til you threaten to throw them thru their windows.

usually an 86 or newer is not quite as collectible as a 85 and older. reason= 85 was last year for the jumpseats. 82 is pretty collectable due to it was only year for cyclops center passing lamp. collectible is meaning they are original. a 86 or 87 with jumpseats is not original, nor is it legal to carry people in the back of one that didnt come with them. Grandfather laws apply, so 85 older you CAN carry people in the back legally. you really should post some pics. A BRAT with factory working AC is worth more than a BRAT that never had AC. etc, get my drift. Ones with non cracked dash are hard to come by and worth more than the ones that have crackd dashes.

most, if not all bodyshops, outsource their blasting. Reason= you sure as heck don't want fine dusty grit, sand getting into your paintbooth when you are painting something you want look nice. And sandblasting is very nasty stuff, not just like sanding a car for paint, in sandblasting, the stuff gets everywhere....and i mean everywhere. not good for a paint environment depends on how bad they are. I had some that were terrible and no way a wire wheel would clean them up they looked like they sat in the bottom of the ocean for years... So i had them blasted but painted myself. You are not in the rust belt for salt, so i would think a wire wheel and some elbow grease, followed by some rustoleum will suit you just fine.

that is now mine. I could use some parts from this wrecked one to make mine nicer. My seats are trashed, and could use some other parts, if you part yours out. Your seats have got to be better.

Seriously you cannot even try to get a value without detailed pictures. -A model is not going to win a contest without a photo, right? Even if she says she is cute, and pretty, there is no proof without pics. just cause the odo shows that, doesn't mean it is legit. Lots of illegal activity in car sales. I got a cluster showing 70k on it, and I could swap into my 212k hatch and nobody would know, but that is illegal and I would not even consider doing that on any car. Pics speak many things, there are also experts in this kind of thing to actually appraise the originality.

Not really supposed to do that, each has their own type of detergents, and they don't usually take to mixing well. They can fight each other. The oil part would be okay, it's the additives and what they are made up of that don't mix.

stupid Chiltons and Haynes, they both say to torque the pulley bolt to 72-76ft pound. Subaru manual says torque it to 125-132 ft pound. Make sure you use the right manual on this for torque. That is why it came loose before, cause some idiot didn't research and of course, he went by haynes or something which killed this car..