bheinen74

and here i am going down a non-plowed alley, and it was getting too deep, notice the drift in front of hood. It was higher than the door bottoms where i stopped and went in reverse back out.

yay we got more snow

happy 3 soobs. supposed to get 10-15 inches more tonight. they are very happy cars.

if it is really a leg turbo, buy it site unseen for 300. that ej22t block is worth 600 just a bare split case.

i repeat, usdm headlights on 91-94 legs are garbage. stupid plastic lens that yellow. and scratch. Honda was smart in that era headlights with glass.

I am doing my Brats when the weather gets warmer, have had both bj's (balljoints) for 2 months, i didn't want to put her into surgery for fear of what happened on my Legacy. On that car, the first problem was the uppoer pinch bolt breaking, even after penetrating spray. second problem was the axle, was seized into the hub (whole reason for that job was to fix my axle). 3rd problem was the ball joint was seized into the knuckle hub as well. Minnesota car......rust...... I had to get a jy axle, hub, spindle.....cause my old was seizedc and wouldnt even press out... Hope my CA brat is all fine.

last night, the brat started and it was -5 F today, right now, the legacy and -10F actual, windchill is -25F it took 8 miles to get enough heat to stay warm. power antenna was slow, and the blower controls were frozen. power steering was little tight due to cold fluids too.....wow. -10F actual, today.

there is/was a forester in the Des Moines, IA Wrench N go that looked the same, but it was a different color on the back. Think the back shocks were all the were salvageable on that one. Looks like a similar fire to this one.

the brat i got from cali, i had shipped and am glad. when it arrived, the carb needed rebuilt for it to start and idle correctly, and then after i rebuilt the carb, changed the antifreeze, and after about 150 miles, the water pump began to leak. It had sat for some time before i got it, the seals in the pump must have gotten dry, and then after i began to drive it, they leaked, to the point that if I would have attempted to drive it back here to iowa, I would have broken down easily as a minimum, or worse would have broken down and overheated/blown the motor. I suggest to get it transported.....before i would recommend you to drive it.

fuel pump okay? i would probab ditch the iridium plugs, go with NGK Vpower BKR6E-11 do you have a steth scope, wouldnt hurt to listen to the injectors for good pulse. hows the alternator

old people tend to die more in the winter....and so those cars pop up.....i dunno just a hunch

I lived in Denver CO for about 9 years, and Subies are EVERYWHERE in that city. There was a junkyard off Sante Fe and Oxford? i went to about every 2 weeks for 2 years, and every visit about 15-20 subies, mostly 91-94 legacy era (10 or so each visit) plus 5-12 olders There were about 8 Subie only shops in Denver alone I know of.

the title of this thread is a scream. I kept thinking of what my old roommate kept telling me of when i was dating this one girl and the sounds out of my room.....

with gas hitting 100 a barrel, 13" will slowly find there way back........give it 10 years.

wow, that lift structure appears to be extreme heavy duty. I might try something like that for the rear on my brat someday. i want the strength like you have.

welcome to the subie ownership

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=18671&cat=500&ppuser=14357 now painted and some snows on them pics link yay:banana: manatt's concrete company blasted them 20 bucks total seats are 04 outback wagon limited one wheel is bent, found that out from tire mounting person, its on the back and not noticable yet

94Loyale: where do we buy this special socket to fit the bearing set collar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaP7L7h9OGE music suks turn off speakers a must

put in a $200 2.2 EJ22, don't spend any money fixing that 2.5, and don't get another 2.5 THE 2.5 are all garbage, unless you wnat to run into the same scenario every 3 years.

maybe 409 and lots of old t shirts for rags.

got a set of wagon wheels at the junkyard, and removed the tires, and just got them back from sandblasting. My whitecoat POR-15 will be here in a few days, so I will get them coated and tires mounted this week. before the sandblast, and after: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14357 paint was delayed from west coast due to the storms. it should have been here last week.

they are kinda hard to break. I smashed a leg into a pile of rebar hauling rump roast after i hit some loose gravel. airbag deployed, radiator punctured, both control arm bent badly, both front tires blown, and hole in the oil pan, and both motor mounts torn in half. drove it like 10 blocks after like this state, to home, and one tire was off the rim at that time. no oil, no coolant. went back to get my tire that was missing, and couldnt even find it. it has a free replacement... lots of fixes, and still driving the poor thing now, don't look at my lower rad support.... good thing for AWD, th rear tires pushed me home.

yep, did put antisieze on the bolts, and also cleaned the threads of the bolts, and the nuts with tap and die set.

this is how I plan to prevent rust of the Brat rear shock mounts, with pics here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=14357 First off, I removed all dust, dirt, rocks from the rear part of the shock mount hollows on my CALI Brat. Next, I applied POR-15 rust paint over everything. Then I cut cardboard patterns for the foam packing stuff, to stuff in the hollows. Trimmed to fit so they are wedged in the hollows. Stuffed in, and seam sealed all around. Next, cut trimmed and applied rubber membrane stuff over that, using seam sealer to attach, and seal off any gaps. Also seam sealed over the factory seams in that area. Then applied another coat of POR-15 over the membrane, and the seam sealer, then undercoated once dry This should prevent any salt spray, etc crap to go behind the hollows which is what causes the rust.