DaveT

Easiest test to check for blocked exhaust, is loosen the 4 y pipe to head nuts. Make sure the studs are not backed out. Get about a 1/2" gap between the head and the flanges. Take a drive. It will be loud. But if the exhaust is blocked, it will now have normal power.

That is a different reason. I never tried not resurfacing one. It might work for a while. But I'm not going to test it.

The jiggle pin hole is very small. Heat gets conducted and convection also. Kind of normal for it to get hot even before the thermostat opens. There is a small coolant hose on the bottom thermostat housing that allows some coolant to move while the thermostat is closed. The higher then lower temperature thing... Might be good to pull the thermostat and test it. A heat gun carefully - to not over cook it, or a pot on a stove top with water. Watch how it opens while the temperature rises. Should be smooth. The other thing I have seen cause that kind of warmer than normal then settle type thing, is when all the air wasn't purged. When ever I open the cooling system and partially drain it, I refill as much as possible, then idle until the thermostat opens, and make sure all the air is out. Rev the engine a few times , etc. one of those funnels that attach to the radiator cap and hold almost a quart of coolant help a lot. Don't do this purge by driving. The way the water pump is situated, it is possible for air to collect in the housing while the thermostat is closed, because low flow rate. Water pumps do not pump air well. When the pump stops pumping, the heads get over normal temperature. It may not be completely stopped, but much lower than normal, depending on how much air vs coolant. Eventually, the heat makes it to the thermostat and it opens. Water shifts, etc. pump catches enough, and coolant flows, pushing the air out. The air is no separated in the radiator, but the heads have been overheated a bit.

When cold. Sharply squeeze the upper hose. If there is air, you will hear it gurgle, in addition to the giggle pin. Its ok if there is a little air. The real thing to watch for is change in the amount. Increasing is not good. Also, this will let you catch it hopefully before an over normal temperature while low on coolant situation. Sometimes I have seen the recovery tank stay in its normal range, but way too much air in the system.

Would the drums be usable (in spec.) if they were turned? The shoes on my 76 and 78 4wd wagons were the same overall size and shape as those on my 86 GL through 93 Loyale. There were some differences in holes as the newer cars had auto adjusters. Might be worth taking a look at a pair of those if you are having trouble finding shoes for 78.

Power goes to the ignition switch on a fat white wire. Power to the engine & ECU etc. is a Black wire. Should only be 12V when ignition is in run and start positions. It goes to the 3 fuses for: Meter Engine IG-COIL FUEL ECC Back Turn 4WD AT Those should all have 12V with the key in run & start positions.

Yes, the gasket just to the right of the water pump is a head gasket. The slow seep may also let in air. It will slowly get worse over time. It may also have started from running over normal temperature while low on coolant - which also eventually causes the head gasket to fail allowing combustion gasses into the cooling system. Time will tell. Just keep a close watch on the coolant levels and air quantity in the upper hose.

Wrist pin plugs open to the crank case, not a coolant passage.

Ok need my manuals, they are at home. Another thing check one of those good ones, but with the key in run position. If it stays good, that indicates that you don't have a flakey connection in that first level of circuitry. If the power goes away, you back track toward the battery.

Ok need to see if it is getting to any fuses. Some should have 12v. 12.59 means battery very near full charge. Verify that both sides of fuses have the same voltage.

That's the way I was reading it, just wanted to be sure. Check for voltage on both sides of the fusible links. A lot of the electric stuff runs through the ignition switch, and possibly a relay or 2. I can look at schematics later tonight. Need readings of voltage yes no at various points to try to point in a direction to go furthwr.

No metal gaskets in there. Once you get the front covers off post a picture or 2

Also you should be able to tell with that method - the sand marks should be even across the entire face, and the head should not rock.

The timing belt covers? The outer 2 L and R should come off without a lot of other dissasebly. Might be more of a pain, but doable.

I have just used the post apocalyptic head resurfacing method described in an old thread on thus forum. Once you grind the marks from the fire ring off, they are flat.

Another check to verify as I am not there... Put the key in rum position. Does the dash light up with all the warning lights? Do the headlights turn on?

The red fusible link powers the horn and the hazard lights, so it is ok. The black fusible link wire should be connected to the heavy white wire in the bottom of the fusible link box. That white wire is the main feed from the alternator back to the battery, the feed to the ignition switch, and the feed to the A/C fuse. You need to check for voltage to ground [car body or battery negative] at places along those paths. Voltmeter, or even just a 12V light bulb with some wires. To find this problem, we have to check things and rule out what is correct. Using the meter or light bulb, is 12V on the stud on the back of the alternator? It is the single connection with a fat white wire held on by a nut. There should be a black rubber cover over it. Be careful not to short it to any other metal. If power is there with the car off, the fusible link is ok.

is it automatic or stick?

Also check the crimps on the wire that go into the bottom of the fusible link box. An open there could explain the failure. Only hazard, horn and key chime? I'll look at a schematic and see if anything looks likely. Also, a relay clicking is only testing the coil side. The contacts could be non functional.

Don't try to pull them by the small lifter part, or the cap...

Oh, missed the new links... tracing with a voltmeter.

If it won't crank.... Fusible link box. I once faked myself into thing I had a bad problem, the car must be in neutral or park to get the starter to run. Not sure what lockout might be on a stixk, bit check those too.

A/C use probably coincidence. Unless you have proof the timing belts and idlers were replaced with the last 50k miles, that is most likely why it shut off. If it cracks with an un even rythm, timing belt broke. Minor tip, Loyale is covered better in the old generation sub forum, that is more of us will see it there.

I have removed some. Use vice grips with scraps of aluminum or copper to protect the sides of the lifter. Use a thin pry bar to work between the vice grip jaws and another piece of metal or wood to protect the head. A burr forms on the edge of the bucket that traps the lifter, right under the spring clip. My experience with the tick, is the reseal fixes it. Never had to really bother with the lifters. It may ocasionally occur on startup then fade away. Not sure if makes any difference, I run Amsoil synthetic 10w40 in my good engines. I had one basket case engine a while back, that I ran on waste oil, what ever cheap oil, etc. I found. It didn't tick either.

I am not familiar with the particular model... But I used to have steering wheel shake at certain speeds when I was running the white wagon wheels on my GL. It would sometimes come and go as the 2 front tires shifted phase [one turning slightly slower than the other] - when the out of balance weight is in the same place on both wheels, [say the top as example] no shake. As the off balance weight drifts to different timing, during even a long slow turn, the shake would build to a maximum then fade away. It turned out to be balancing, and the ONLY place that could do it right, was a dealer.