DaveT

For EA82s- OEM Dealer exhaust - costs a lot, lasts 8+ years in CT [snow / salt] IF you don't let a catalytic die. Aftermarket from pretty much any parts store - much cheaper, wont last anywhere near as long. What I ended up doing: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

The ECU LED is view able through a hole in the ECU case. The plastic trim panel under the steering column must be removed to be able to see that hole. That is where you read any codes. Usually, the check engine light will be on if there are any codes - especially if they are related to a malfunction that is happening while you are reading the LED blinks.

They way to avoid the nuts seizing to the studs is to use anti size compound. The only time I have had to deal with those stuck nuts is the first time I had to pull the header off. New studs, Stainless nuts [if available] and anti seize, no problem with later work.

There is supposed to be a gasket between the head and the y pipe flange. They do not usually survive being loose or removal unless pretty new.

The o2 sensor is not used for anything until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Then only fine tuning of the mix for clean burning.

Ok, I got mixed up by the terms used. Studs are used in the head to y pipe. Bolts are used in the flanges. There are gaskets between flanges. The I use 10mm or 3/8" stainless steel nuts and bolts on the flanges. It's pretty common for a flange to rot out on the second cat. If the gasket was damaged, a new bolt won't stop the leak. The flimsy hose going up to the air cleaner is not carrying exhaust gasses, only air from around the shields on the exhaust pipes. It's preheat to help warm up the engine and avoid icing in the carb.

That is weird. The way it varies. Never had one doing that. It is a spfi fuel system. At one point, it does sound like there may be a vacuum leak in the video. But those I've not seen make the surging, just the thin hissing sound.

The studs are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. Studs are better, the entire length of the thread is engaged in the head before any load is applied. I've used helicoils to fix mine. Others have used 7/16" threaded rod or studs, since all you need to do is tap the head with that size.

I just measured a new Fel Pro head gasket, it's .075" thick, measured where the fire rings are. 2 things I'd want to know more about re the copper idea - What is going to go on with aluminum & copper with water - as in electrolysis. For copper to be a good gasket, it has to be a soft, not hardened. I would expect the block and head would also have to be very flat and accurately machined.

The starter has no fancy controls. IF you turn the key, it should crank. It will crank until the battery is discharged or the starter burns out. Once you have the coolant system filled, moderately blown head gaskets will cause bubbles almost immediately. If they are at the very early stage, you have to wait until everything is stabilized, and several closely monitored drives.

One of the sure ways to kill a lead acid battery is to allow it to sit in a less than fully charged state. The lower the charge, the more damage. If you plan on not using a car for more than a week or so, disconnect the battery. I've heard about a lot of people having poor luck with rebuilt alternators on here. I rebuild my own, typically have not had unusual problems. My original oem alternators all went about 150k miles before needing a brush. At wich time I replaced the bearings also. Over time since 1988 I've had a couple rectifier and regulator failures.

At this point, start it see if it will run. Most common way headgaskets fail on these causes combustion gasses to escape into the cooling system. Look for bubbles in the radiator / recovery tank. If it runs, monitor coolant closely. See how it goes, recheck compression. Monitor coolant system closely.

I doubt that the valve adjusters have enough range to get the compression to zero. Pull the cover, see if the valves are stuck.

You could also try the flange the other way around, so it presses against the inner race. I've always had extra spacers [the ones from in between the inner races] from retired cars to use, so I can put the seals in before pulling the axle through.

Just a point of information - 10 minutes is no where near long enough to charge a battery. Typical battery is about 100AH. Could be more or less, depending on what size it is. From zero charge, with a brand new battery [12.0V resting] that means 20 amps for 5 hours minimum, not counting efficiency losses. In a stock loyale, The engine must be revved above idle to get enough to run the engine, let alone make additional 20 or more amps to other things, like charging the battery and running lights, etc. Check the connections. Other note - I have seen a brand new battery develop an open circuit / high resistance connection internally that could run lights, but not allow enough to turn the starter. Not common, but it can happen.

The axle should not be that tight. It should not be loose either, but pounding with bearings involved is not good. I have always just used the axle nut with washers and spacers to pull the axle back through the bearings.

Mizpah is a place that reconditions them.

Hla is hydraulic lash adjuster

The intake gaskets and the oring. Dealer oem.

I am looking at possibly getting an Impreza around 2008 or so year. It would be an automatic. Don't need stuff like turbo, or alloy wheels. But I do want to know what engine / transmission variants to prefer and or avoid. What year range around 08 are they essentially the same?

Regular ethylene glycol is fine. The most important thing to monitor is the condition of the radiator and all of the cooling system hoses. Not just the upper and lower radiator hose, and the heater hoses, but ALL of them. How many other there are depends on the engine model.

Rotate the crank so Piston #1 is at top dead center. Use the center of the 3 ||| lines on the flywheel and the v on the bell housing for the precise position. Do not use the 0 degree TDC / timing marks. Rotate the cam shaft that drives the distributor so the small timing mark hole is aligned with the notch on the plastic back cover. Install that belt, set the tensioner. Torque is applied to the cam pulley during this. Check the FSM for ft-lbs. Verify the timing marks are lined up. Next is the step MANY people miss the first time they do an EA82 - Rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn by wrenching the bolt that holds the V belt pulley on the front. Install the second timing belt, using the same crank position mark, and the similar mark on that cam and it's back cover. Set the tensioner, with the FSM torque on the cam, check the alignment. The following is my procedure to insure that the belts are at the proper tension after they walk into the paths they will run in. Turn the crank by hand a few revolutions. Re check / re set the tension on the cams, while each is aligned at the ||| marks. Run for 20-30 seconds. No longer, as there is no coolant, or water pump turning. Recheck again. Reassemble the rest of the items removed to get at the belts. I have been running mine for several years now without the front timing belt covers installed, with no ill effects.

Can't check the video right now. You should not have to touch the distributor if it is as it has always been.

In general, they are similar. I can't say about specifics like dimensions. I went from the 76 and 78 style models to ea82 86 and up through loyales.

Probably not C. I had an accident many years ago, and had the car repaired by a local shop. It was before I really did much car work. It drove a little odd for a long time after, never could figure out why, until one day I decided to replace the struts, just due to age & miles. It was fixed. Turned out the strut on the damaged side was bent ever so slightly. The car was a 76 wagon. The struts and the hubs are pretty similar as far as overall design and how they go together.