DaveT

I ran a bunch of old fuel for a while a number of years ago. The main problem was if it had water in it. I made a setup to remove the water. I was amazed at how stale of old gas I could run without trouble. The worst stuff I had, I had to mix 50/50 with new.

Spray carb cleaner down the throat for 1 to 2 seconds. Then try cranking. If it fires momentarily, it's bad fuel / no fuel.

I made a tool based on the pictures / sketches in the factory service manual. You are fighting the valve springs. Once you get it in the position with the mark at the top, it will stay. The tool is a piece of metal with 2 bolts poking through so they can get into 2 of the bigger 4 holes around the edge of the pulley.

Oh, interesting. I've run ea82 turbo 2 row radiators - except they are no longer available anywhere. My existing ones are getting too old. Have to look at the 2 options mentioned above.

Once you have the crank shaft bolt off, you can put the pulley and the bolt back on, and use a big wrench to turn the crank for timing alignment. It won't be crazy tight when you have to remove it later so getting it back off is no big deal. When you are done, you have to find a way to hold the flywheel and tighten it properly however.

The 3 idlers don't last much longer than the belts, so it's not good to change belts and not the idlers.

for that price, wow

Mine are a hair above the flanges. The fleet runners measure .500". The napa premium xl belts on my identical car are .475" wide. Same belt sizes. Both belts in both cars ride a little above the top of the flanges. I never thought about it, I guess they really should be a little narrower. I've been running these cars with similar belts since 1988 never had a problem though. The only belt I ever had fail was one that came on a car, don't know what brand it was. They take a little manuvering to get onto the power steering pulley, do those first. The part numbers for the configuration of my cars are 9451HD and 9390HD.

I'm not sdure what you mean by "the 2 outer belts" - if you mean the V belts, those are in the way, remove them. Take the alternator off. Flip the AC compressor up out of the way. Makes it a lot easier to see what you are doing. Don't buy cheapo kits / parts, if you intend to keep the car for a long time. If you do the cam seals, which are probably due, it is silly not do replace the o rings that are on the small piece the seals press into. Best source for those is a dealer. I use the FSM procedure for installing the timing belts. This has been written out in a number of other timing belt threads. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the center cover so that you can remove the timing belts. The sketch above isn't clear - but with the flywheel timing mark as described, one cam will have it's timing mark up and the other will have it's mark down. Do look at the position of them before you take them off. When using the FSM procedure, each belt is installed when it's cam is in the mark up position, and there is no force from the valve springs fighting you, or possibly throwing off the torque reading for the tensioning.

To turn the engine, use a 22mm [iirc] Socket on the bolt on the crank shaft pulley. Turn clockwise.

None of my ea82s had / have air induction.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

I've seen / had other belts wear out. Just not the fleet runners yet.

Went looking for the intermittent squeak I've been getting on cold [around freezing] starts on my 1987 EA82 GL. The water pump's front bearing seal was in pieces, I could see the cage moving when I turned it. Yikes. But no play in the shaft yet. But I also noticed the Gates Fleetrunner Green Stripe belts. I don't even remember how long ago I bought those. I'm pretty sure I've been running them on my various EA82s for over 10 years. That same pair of belts. They are still in good condition. No cracks or anything.

That squeak is a bearing dying. I had a recent similar experience - When I started the car after work, which means it's around freezing, I heard a metallic squeal from under the hood. It would fade away after 10 or so seconds. Wouldn't do it if warm. Finally had time to look at it today. The water pump front bearing looks like the culprit - the oil seal is destroyed, and I can see the cage. Won't be 100% sure until I take the car to work on a cold day again. But the V belt idler was good, and the timing belt idlers don't look shot. I know those were redone when I put the engine in a couple years ago. Apparently, the water pump I didn't change for some reason.

It is normal for an open egr solenoid coil to not light the cel immediately. The egr is not activated until the engine is up to temperature, so it's condition is not checked.

You unhook the solenoids? Yes, that will cause the cel quicker. The only way I know to read the codes on these old models is the led I described previously. The simplest method is to stop when the cel lights, put in in park, count the blinks.

The cel comes on because the solenoid coil is open, in all of the cases I've seen on my ea82s. The code is read by viewing a red led in the ECU which is under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic trim panel that is under there to see it. You can count the blinks of the red led while the car is on and the CEL is lit. It goes slow blinks then fast blinks to indicate a 2 digit number.

Heater hose may not stand up to the oil well.

You can try both a tube as a stethoscope and a big screw driver as a probe. This requires careful planning of position etc. Hold 1 end of tube (or screwdriver ) to ear, other near (or touch non moving parts). This may help locate the noise. Otherwise, if it's that bad, take them off, you have to to fix it anyway, and it should be obvious which bearings are bad. This includes timing belt idlers, if your engine has them.

I can't, I never had a Legacy. Never took one apart. Probably better to start a new thread.

I apply the Waxoyl by removing the interior plastic . The kit comes with a gun and a tube for reaching into difficult places. I don't use POR 15 unless I know I can get the bad area completely encased / covered. It's great stuff, but if you leave an exposed / compromised area, rust starts there and works its way underneath. Waxoyl is thinner, and continues to creep into places for a long time.

One of the parts of where the rust comes from is the inside of the panels and rockers and layers of sheet metal. You have to get something in there also. My choice is something like Waxoyl or the similar stuff mentioned. It soaks in and stops the rust that is there, and stays waxy for a very long time. I've seen some of the products that harden eventually separate from the paint / metal and become dirt and moisture traps - not good. Oil is effective but messy and needs frequent application. And there is the whole ordeal of getting into those hidden areas over and over. I know it can help due to one car I had long ago that leaked oil on one side. That side stayed in far better condition than the other side.

Not looking for external leaks - Don't just check by looking at the level in the recovery tank. Other possible cause of white smoke is only if it has an automatic transmission. Vacuum modulator. Look for ATF in the vacuum line down on the side where it connects to the modulator.

White smoke should be coolant. Watch the level very closely.