DaveT

I checked the schematic in my 86 FSM for the SPFI version. The S terminal is wired like a regulator remote sense line. This is done to control the voltage pushed to the battery [thus the current for charging] more accurately. Remote sense for voltage regulators is used when the designer wants to have more accurate regulation at the point where the sense wire is connected. Without it, the voltage the battery would see would vary a lot more depending on what accessories were switched on. It would take a much heavier wire run directly from the alternator to the battery + terminal, and a separate fuseable link to get the same regulation accuracy.

Get the cooling system leaks fixed before you run it for any length of time, or you will be needing head gaskets also. Yes, double check the timing belts, especially the 1 rotation between installing the first and second belt.

It's good to have easy fixes once in a while.

Check the cts.

I've seen those. Even got parts off one. All years ago.

A thin / not open crack between the valves is very common. There was a tsb about them years ago. Many of mine have them, no problem. As you separate the head from the block, coolant falls out if the passages, some typically falls into the cylinders.

remove the outer black plastic cover on the distributor side. see if the belt is broken. There are lots of threads on here, and videos on youtube of how to replace them.

Timing belts

The temperature lever / slider mechanically moves a blend door that directs the air through the heater core or around it.

yes

Was it overheated? Why are the head bolts in the head? I've had one head crack in the exhaust port. It was on an engine that got run low on coolant and was the worst overheat I ever had. It didn't crack for a few years after the incident. May or may not be related. Top center head bolts will get rusted by a coolant leak from the intake manifold, via it's bolts. the holes intersect. The others, it was probably leaking via the head gasket into the bolt holes.

The timing mark on the cam pulleys is the small hole near the edge. When they are properly installed, and the flywheel is on the center of the 3 ||| marks, one should be up at 12:00 in line with the notch in the plastic back cover. The other will be 180 degrees out, at 6:00. This is normal. Rotate the crank 1 full turn, and they should be swapped - the one that was on the mark will be at 6:00 and the other will now be on it's mark at 12:00. The pulleys are the same.

The small connection on the starter is the solenoid coil. The ignition switch applies 12v to it when the key is in the start position. Otherwise, it is open cicuit. If it's cranking reliably, you don't need the relay mod yet.

Web page link: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

WTF? No need to be snotty. The details went past my experience. General stuff is general. I have no specific info regarding 1982 models, so I am done with this thread.

After you set it, try to turn the alternator fan by hand. If it slips, it's too loose. You want it just tight enough that you can't slip it. If the engine isn't on a compression stroke, the crank might turn a little.

I just sent myself am email to remind me of this thread tonight. I can post the link and a pic, etc. From home. The Toyota solenoids are from the same years as the Subarus. They look different, that's why my Web page explains all that. The CEL will go out on its own after a drive or 2. The FSM has the entire clear codes procedure. I would have to ook it up, it's weird.

Edited to remove possibly incorrect info. I never had a 1982 or close model, so I can't get more specific about this situation.

If the primary winding of the coil has shorted, it would overload the module, explaining why the module failed also.

This was the post I was trying to remember last night. I can look at one of mine and figure out what connects where. I have a Web page with my solution to the dead solenoid problem. I replaced them with Toyota solenoids. I'm still running the same solenoids that I got used from a scrapyard in the late 80s.

That is the engine control unit. The list of codes has been posted in many threads. Count the slow blinks, and the fast blinks as a 2 digit number. Post them, and we can look them up. Slow is 10s place. Fast is 1s place.

Seems like a FSM schematic would be helpful at this point. Unfortunately, I only have EA82s.

Some of the common automotive general purpose relays have standard numbers on the terminals.

If you have time and space, save the mixed oil in a closed container. The oil and water will eventually seperate, and you can skim the oil off the top.

Only fusible links are in the black box near the battery.