DaveT

Check for + voltage [to GND] on the + terminal of the coil, key in run position, and in cranking position.

It's typical for the resistor to be bypassed while the key is in cranking position. The available voltage is lower, due to the draw from the starter. During normal running, the resistor is desired. Check that you get + Voltage on the + side of the coil to GND, [not coil negative] while in run position and cranking. If you don't, there's your problem. The points ground the - side of the coil and then break the circuit when the spark is required - that's what adjusting the timing is setting.

It's been done. How far away from ct ate you? If the 3AT 4WD automatic is good, I might be interested. I have a dual range 4wd transmission available that I don't need.

Those are part of an indication of failing head gaskets. You need to be checking coolant level in the radiator and the overflow before every drive to be more certain. Don't open the radiator cap unless it is low on coolant. The system needs to be 100% full of coolant, little to no air.

I use a pair as daily drivers, technically, every other day. I do all my own repairs and maintenance. I have worked on these since 1988, so I know them well, what to watch, etc. When one needs work, I have the other. I have *lots* of spare parts from previous identical cars I've owned that were retired due to rust. Not practical to have as an only vehicle AND you rely on paying people to repair it. If that is your situation, you really want a newer generation, but even with those, read a lot to learn the key items to watch out for before buying. The 2 I have currently, are both very good condition rust wise for being around 30 years old. Partly due to where they were and how they were used, and some work by me. Any new to me one of this vintage, I would assume needs an engine reseal, bearings, radiator, ball joints, timing belts and idlers and numerous other smaller things that don't last forever. The original alternator will wear out a brush at 150K miles, for example. Occasionally, I have to do some repairs, but mostly they are reliable for me.

Polishing it won't do anything noticable. Too many other design factors limit the air flow. Lots and I mean lots of old threads on this forum about such things. Weber carb or convert to spfi are safe mods. But realize thus is a 30+ year old machine, and parts may be scarce.

Make sure you can get lots of parts. But not a good idea. Not sure how available parts are for these old engines.

Back when I wrote that page, the years between the car brands were about the same. The year isn't critical. Size of the solenoid and the ports you want similar. Pretty much anything from 80s through 90s likely had one or more. The junkyard I got them at let me go wander with a wrench and I gathered around 10 various units. Still using the same ones today. I have never experienced any noticeable to the driver symptoms associated with the 34 code. Code 34 says the solenoid coil is open or shorted, or the wiring to it. It will fail emissions testing.

A mightyvac hand powered test vacuum pump will help trace this type of problem.

It's roughly 30 years old. You have to find a mechanic at a shop that is likely over 45 plus to have experience working on them when they were new. About 10 years ago, they were pretty much gone from my area, I doubt there are many around here that would know how to deal with the systems that old, except odd specialty guys, and a few of us nuts on forums.

I had one car develop a horrible thunk and jerk while moving forward while engine breaking - fine if accelerating. Turned out to be a destroyed bearing on the differential input shaft.

BAd clanking - tied to engine RPM or ground speed? Either way, clanking isn't usually tied to blown head gaskets. If it overheated badly, especially if low on coolant, the head gaskets are likely blown.

+1 Gloyale

The blower speed most likely is the resistor pack has broken. It is mounted in the outlet of the blower housing for cooling. Has a connector with 4 wires.

I was thinking that - If you go electric fan, it would be wise to do the alternator upgrade. Hard to say why it ended up with 2 different pumps / pulleys. All kinds of unforeseen things come up and time / what's available / what costs less to fix the problem / shortage / error on the fly when things are already in production often cost and or time to market is #1 priority, not what happens 5 years later when repairs start to become more common.

An 88 should be 1.8L. SPFI - check the CTS - coolant temperature sensor. It is a 2 wire sensor on the housing the thermostat mounts in. The 1 wire temp gauge sensor is near it. It can be bad in ways that will not cause a CEL / code. And it can cause all sorts of starting / driveabilty issues depending on the failure mode.

sounds like not getting spark. pull the center wire off the distributor, place / arrange it so the contact on the wire is close to grounded metal, not near fuel. like 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Make sure it can't move, don't hold it. Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark.

I've not dissasembled one, haven't had a reason yet... But from lots of electronics background, I'd think there would be an emitter on one side and a detector on the other of the interrupter disc.

Factory service manual has everything you need. There might be links around, I don't know. Once in a while they show up for sale

give it a 1-2 second shot of carb cleaner in the throat. Then crank with gas part way down, like 1/3 throttle.

The best way to provide a return path for the starting current would be a thick wire equal to the + one to one of the starter mounting bolts. Make sure the connections are clean, and the crimps are clean. A little grease smeared on them will keep them clean for years.

I'm not 100% familiar with the ea81. But if the only wore on the negative of the battery is small, like number 10awg, that is not correct. There needs to be a thick one like the one that goes from the positive to the starter.

Iirc I had a car do something like that once. Turned out to be the driveshaft. U joints were shot. Because it spins fast, a little extra stiffness or slop can make it off balance, and go in and out of resonance in a narrow speed range.

That thin wire to the body should not be carrying current for the starter. There should be a heavy wire to the starter mounting bolt from the negative. Look for a bad connection.

4wd vs 2WD might be different. Carb vs spfi is probably different as far as the ports.