DaveT

Are the exhaust gaskets and header y pipe sealed up? If you cranked that long, gas would be getting through by then, building up since it didn't fire. Then for some reason it did...

If the body is rust free, and you plan on running it, you got an almost free car for the price of a fuel pump. A 30 year old car is going to need some parts now and then. Still cheaper than payments and taxes and collision on a new one.

Thank you, glad to hear you got it working!

The pump could have been stuck due to mechanically jammed somehow, or if some way the fluid output was stopped solid, and the relief was stuck closed. Still pretty odd.

Bad battery wouldn't start the engine. The voltmeter on the dash may or may not be reading accurately, it's in a bunch of the car electric system, and something isn't right, so it is not good to rely on it. It's going to be difficult to troubleshoot electric systems without a DVM / meter. The Black / White wire goes through a fusible link to the battery, so should be at battery voltage at all times. The White / Red goes through a 15A fuse in the fuse block to the warning lights. Sounds like from your previous post, the B/W is ok. The W/R has a problem. Try to locate a copy of the schematic from a factory Service manual. There may be a link on the forum or the internet somewhere. I can eventually try to get a scan.

How are the 2 small wires on the back of the alternator?

The metal terminals can be removed from the plastic. If they are not corroded, the crimps can be unfolded. It's not easy, and you have to be careful. Some will un bend, some may break. Re bend them onto new wire, then solder, as they will not hold by crimping alone a second time. If the tabs do break off, small copper tubing pieces can be used to make new Ferrells.

I always just matched them up. I'd guess they might be slightly different due to intakes having vacuum, and exhaust is pressure.

GD - Are you saying that the sleeves that get the Ridge worn that makes them stick in the sleeve get that way because the sleeve is too high, or moved out of the cast aluminum? I'm curious, since I have at least 1 head with pretty stuck in lifters, where most they just pull out fairly easily.

I'll add, I am referring only to stock un modified engines, operating within their specifications, that is not above red line.

Keep a close watch on it.

That is odd. I've had several and they always have 2 wires. Not sure what missing one could cause for trouble, or why one would work without one. Never had trouble to investigate enough to find out.

All of the oem and copies I have are brass, which is a common metal for keys. The Subaru ones are a little.on the thinner / narrower side, so they can wear out in less than 20 years... Some profiles are quicker to wear than others also.

The brand new battery was likely fully charged. For a while, it would hold fairly steady voltage. LA batteries have a moderately flat discharge curve until depleted. The old battery had already been abused by running until discharged. It may or may not recover if fully charged. Starting batteries don't handle deep discharges well. They should survive a few, but each reduces life. In addition to checking that the output wire has a good connection, check the 2 small wires on the T shaped connector.

How many miles on the original alternator? Every one I've had has worn out a brush right around 150K. You are describing no alternator output with the readings you list. Some reference points: Brand new condition non abused battery - Fully charged, resting battery = 12.6V Fully discharged resting battery = 12.0V Anything lower than 12.0 is harmful to a battery. 13.8 would be absolutely the minimum for any charging to happen. 13.8 is typical float voltage, and car charging systems are not float chargers - they have to put more power back into the battery in too short of time to be truly float. Rear axle change is coincidence, unless you did something to the electrical system under the hood.. I've read a lot of stories on here about people buying bad alternators. I've always rebuilt them.

I have a couple of old ones somewhere. There are loads of 3d print places online if no one here has one. Also look up local maker groups. That's a whole community of 3d printer and home builders of things.

That's not a surprising number. These engines are made to spin fast, not lug at low rpm.

Yes, if it was swapped, the ratios could be wrong. But it still should go into 2WD mode, and no binding.

Once you lifted the wheels off the ground, the binding is gone.

This model Subaru definitely has a front wheel drive only mode. It is not only 4WD hi or low. I am not familiar with the particular transmission you have, as all of mine are automatics, but I know that Subarus in this model / age and before have selectable front wheel drive / 4WD. [Or 2WD only] The select on the fly is what made them famous. The binding and stuck shifter exactly describe what happens on dry pavement.in 4WD, with mismatched tires or turning. The only way you can roll in 4WD on dry pavement without binding is 4 brand new tires, and in a straight line. Going by what I've read in this thread, your diff is not bad, unless it is making noise.

It could be jumping around for a lot of reasons. Loose or poor connection anywhere in the charging circuit could do that. That includes circuitry inside the alternator, the car system, and the battery. More tests are needed to pin it down to 1 part. Battery cranKS the car ok, runs headlights ok, so battery probably ok. Dyplicate the situation when the meter jumps around, put the parking lights on, what does it do then? Add the headlights, what then?

With the driveshaft removed, the rear diff is still turning, by the rear wheels rolling, so if the rear diff was the cause of your problem, the problem would still be there.

When the car Is not in 4WD there is no load in the driveshaft. Sane as when you remove it. Driving with it removed won't hurt it. If the car is in 4WD on dry pavement and the tires are not all the same size, brand model and miles, it will bind up, even going straight.

Are all 4 tires the same brand, model and size? Even if they are, the car may bind up on dry pavement in 4wd in sharp corners.

That ground should work, as long as the contact point is metal to metal. (Remove paint.) One of the fusible links is in the circuit from the alternator output to the battery, so if that one is open, or high resistance, no charging.