DaveT

Sounds like the IAC. Yes, round thing with 2 wires and big hose on front of the throttle body. This car is obd1. Read the code blinked by the LED on the ECU, under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic cover that has th air vent for your feet and legs.

The CTS can cause odd intermittent problems like that. Also, the IAC valve. Read the code, it may give you the answer.

Any of the silicons of know of will burn off exhaust. Leaving a gap that will accelerate corrosion. And yes the acidic ones won't help with that either.

I found the Fel Pro ones to fail also. I got oem ones, they are hard and a little slippery. I think with metal inside. No problems so far.

That heat cycle anneals the metal, making it soft again. Work -getting squished in this case - hardens it.

They are copper. I have always re used them, never had a problem. If they are damaged, I wouldn't re use.

I have noticed that some colors of sharpie marker fade over time.

I ran a mallory marine racing coil and breakerless conversion in my 1976. Can't say anything about making power. But it did start quicker, and I did not miss having to adjust the points every so often.

Be very wary about running it with any coolant leak. A 30 year old turbo is going to be a challenge to maintain. Finding anyone who knows them well who is in the repair business is going to be tricky also. I think there are a few turbo guys on here. I'm running a non turbo spfi 87 and a 93,, and intend to for a long while, but I do all my own repairs, and can even make parts.

It's in the casting of the head also. Oddly, not in the intake passage.

Copper is good for somewhere around double that.

T a pressure gauge into the fuel supply line, after the filter under the hood. If the fuel pump isn't running, there would be no pressure, or only a little stored. There is no path for fuel to get into the engine / out the exhaust other than through the throttle body.

Try Waytek wire. I never looked for those, but they have a LOT of other low V & automotive type stuff.

Never had that. 1st thing I think of is some how flooding the intake at the throttle body. Maybe no spark? What had to be disconnected to do the swap?

I've never seen rtv melt once cured. Char from too high heat, yes. Dissolved by contact with fuel, yes.

I always fixed the rattles with a cutoff wheel. Seems like it's not going to burst into flame, but it might smoulder until enough of it is gone.

I don't know about a blue dot. EA82 head gaskets only fit one way. Look at the 2 alignment pins, and the bolt holes and the oil return passages. Wrong way. and more than one of these won't line up.

keep a close watch on that.. Exhaust pipe temp can get pretty close if not over the operating temp of silicon.

Something wrong here. Ea82 red line is at 6000? Mine won't go faster than that anyway, they just stop increasing rpm.

The o rings between the heads and the cam towers are metal enforced. I have gotten them from a dealer. They may also be available from industrial supply houses, but you have to know the sizes and all that. Don't use plain orings.

On the ones I did, with the special socket I couldn't get enough torque without it popping out of the stickier ones. I ground a special tool for my air hammer which made short work of the stickier ones, and didn't destroy the nut to where I couldn't use it..

There are a total of 7 hoses involved with the cooling system. A few of them can leak on top of the block. Unless you know they are new, replace all of them. Be sure to clean the nipples , they typically have rust and won't seal. I have found that plumber's silicon grease makes later disassembly much easier. Once the new hoses are on, and you have followed the procedure to remove most of the air, watch the coolant level closely. You may have an intake gasket leak - those can go either into the intake or out onto the block. Head gaskets can develop seeps to the outside. I have usually seen this after an overheat while low on coolant. This also can lead to blown head gaskets. Smelling hot coolant usually means a small leak where it hits something hot. Intake leak has to get very bad before smoke gets obvious. Coolant in the oil doesn't usually happen until the head gaskets are VERY well blown.

Not sure of this help - I had a similar problem with my 90 loyale, non turbo. The alternator belt was a weird size. Normal ones, one was just long enough to not get tight, next size shorter wouldn't get over the sheaves. I found that I could file the alternator bracket adjuster slot a bit longer, so it would allow the shorter belt to be installed. In my case there was no room to go the other direction, as the alternator would have hit the battery.

I've run a couple engines without thermostats temporarily. I did not find that to be what happens. The engine never gets to operating temperature. While the coolant isn't in the radiator long, it is not in the engine long either, thus moving heat out quicker.

1st thing to do is look up the final drive gear ratios of both.