DaveT

Ah, ok . Everything sounds normal for an old ea82, except the return of the engine problem, and the chewing up tires problem.

If the body structure is rusted too bad to fix, find one that isn't. Even if you need to have it shipped. Don't care if it runs, you have all the parts in your existing one. The body is the frame, so I don't see how trying to put it on some other frame would gain much. Usually, the stuff that's rotted away is combined with the visible and the frame. At least that's what has taken my previous ones. Rusty as heck, looks like a beater, then some frame part breaks, time for a new body. I don't want the bigger newer cars either. All the newer ones are huge. MY current 2 EA82 Wagons, I bought due to extremely little rust. Any other problem, I can fix. Now the plan with them getting scarcer, is just to keep ahead of the rust before it gets away.

With the air cleaner off, you should be able to see the choke butterfly valve on the top of the carb. I don't know webers specifically, but every carb I've seen, this is the case. Open it with fingers, then use something [preferably not metallic, and long enough to not fall down into the intake] to make it stuck open. Don't hold it by hand, if it were to backfire, well, flames could get you.

Pretty unlikely it skipped while sitting. Clearing a flood , you will go through a stretch where it stumbles and kind of half tries to run. Prop the choke open, hold - don't pump- the gas at least half way open.

If the plugs are wet with fuel, you may be fighting a real good flood. Keep the choke open. It can take a lot of cranking to get enough air through to clear that. Might be obvious, but since I'm not there, be sure timing belts are intact, etc.

Try a 1 to 2 second shot of carb cleaner into the carb. Then try to start. If it runs for a few seconds, something isn't right in the carb.

Generic is fine, just be sure to use coolant hose for coolant, vacuum for vacuum, etc. Only 1 piece I know where ordinary straight hose won't work is the small elbow off the top of the water pump to the heater hard line. It's a 90 degree elbow. NAPA has one that fits.

Regarding thesee silicone boots, are there any recommendations for good brands or brands to avoid?

Try adjusting the cable!

You are looking for the newer generation forum. Welcome!

It does sound more like a clutch problem than a transmission problem.

When you replace a timing belt, the 3 idlers should be replaced also. Also, folow the procedure for installing. Then turn the crank by hand a couple revolution s. Re check the tension. Run for 10 seconds or so. Re check the tension. The reason I do this is that the belts walk into the position they want to run in during this. If you just put them on, tension and drive, they will settle in, but end up loose.

Crummy idle. Check - Plugs wires look for vacuum leaks

There is probably a link / thread on here with a list. The factory service manuals have a table. With the car idling, look at the blinking LED. Count the long blinks, and the short blinks. Long are the 10's place, short are the 1's place. So 3 long & 4 short means code 34, for example. If there is more than 1 code, they will list out in sequence. The sequence is repeated endlessly. Most often there is only 1 code. If you reply with the number /s you get, someone will reply with what it is.

I can't be sure, since you have a version I have never seen. I had an 86 with a carb, no ECU. All of my others were & are SPFI. On the SPFI, the ECU uses a 2 wire sensor for engine temperature. It will cause all kinds of drivability issues when failing. Often, without triggering a code. The temperature gauge uses a 1 wire sensor. On any of the Subaru engines, it is VERY important to fill and idle and check and recheck the coolant level before driving. Often refereed to as burping the system. Any time the coolant system is opened and partially drained, an air pocket can end up in the thermostat housing and or the water pump. This can cause an overheat, which is risky for headgaskets. Check the coolant level in the recovery tank AND the upper hose frequently, at least until you are sure that things are normal. Don't open the radiator cap, as this introduces air into the system. Sharply squeeze the upper hose, and listen for air / gurgling and the giggle pin in the thermostat. Only open the cap to add coolant if it sounds like the upper hose is mostly air.

There isn't a standard one. You read the codes on the LED on the ECU, under the steering wheel. There is a plastic panel that needs to be removed.

2 things I'd likely try to attempt to get more information. . Wire a headlamp bulb in series with the alternator output. Depending on the current drawn, it will glow. Notice whine, or lack, and measure voltages. Also, disconnect the alternator output from the car's wiring, and just connect it to a separate headlamp bulb, other side of the bulb to ground. Again, check voltages and whine or not.

Id.be looking for what may be causing a big load that is run via that fuse that made a difference. Have to determine if a lot of current is being drawn from the alternator output wire, or somehow you just got lucky and got a dead alternator. The whine and that much heat that quick is a sign of a heavy load or shorted rectifiers kind of failire.

I've gotten all the cooling system hoses from NAPA. The PCV hoses, dealer, or find generic hose rated for that use. The small vacuum lines, generic vacuum hose. No idea what all of it would cost.

What Scott wrote. Cigarette lighter sockets have to supply something like 10 amps at 12v to run the lighter. I can't imagine one being limited to less than 5 amps. That would be 60 watts at 12v. My phone will only fast charge with the cable it came with, and a usb 3 port. Usb 2 limits to 0.5A.

The O2 sensor is not used until the engine is up to normal operating temperature, and the ecu goes into closed loop mode. The CTS can cause all kinds of odd running / drivability issues when it is failing, and it doesn't always cause a code to set the CEL.

Good idea.

The idle as control solenoid - if the coil is open, it will die when you let the throttle fully close. As if you shut it off.

It could also be an intake or carb /tb gasket. Don't assume headgaskets based only on white smoke.

Check fuel pressure