DaveT

From my past experience - I would change out that hydraulic hose for coolant / heater hose sooner rather than later. Been there done that, had the failure. Not specifically with hydraulic house, but the compounds are formulated for the intended use - coolant, fuel, oil, temperature, etc. No guarantee that using any particular hose with a different fluid is going to survive.

Work it back on, and off. Might take a lot of that. If you use an air hammer, wear ear muffs. Hearing damage is cumulative, and permanent.

Oh, I see whats going on now - The pressure sender is the bigger one below, with the wire on it The second one, is just an idiot light switch, not usually in the models with a gauge. Typically, there is a plug there. It's 1/8" British pipe taper.

Oh, yes, if it is on the oil pump, it is the pressure sender. There should be a single wire coming down along the dipstick to it.

miss at most rpms.... Not an idle problem. Once the throttle is open some, the IACV has little effect on running. Verify all the plug wires are good. They can be check with ohms also. Also, running in the dark, look for arcs. These are 2 different checks for different problems.

Keeping one original, is the best way to continue the simple reliability.

The intake manifold has a main cooling system passage in it. The coolant exits the heads into it, on the way to the thermostat. It is necessary. The small line, is the tap to help prevent carb icing. When the carb was off, there should be the big air passage, and a smaller coolant pocket visible. Pretty much has to be the gasket, or a crack in the manifold. Maybe not tight or some odd thing?

The coil is ok then. If it's on the car, you should hear a mechanical click if you momentarily apply 12 V to the coil. If you have it off, you can see a plunger move when powered on & off.

There is a coolant passage under the carb. If the gasket fails, or the manifold gets corroded enough, it leaks coolant into the intake.

Looks like it needs a good cleaning. I'd want to be sure the aluminum surface is totally flat. The headgasket seals to the aluminum. The top edge of the cylinder liner doesn't matter so much.

Looks like it needs a good cleaning. I'd want to be sure the aluminum surface is totally flat. The headgasket seals to the aluminum. The top edge of the cylinder liner doesn't matter so much.

Oh, ok, just wantwd to be sure. The CTS is coolant temperature sensor. On the side of the thermostat housing, with 2 wires.

That port you are pointing to connects to the fuel pressure regulator, which is the small diaphragm above your finger as viewed in the picture. There is a long hose connected to the fuel regulator that is routed to the wrong place. That port open will cause crummy idle. The top picture cuts out whatever that connector is connected to so I can't be sure of what it is.

The axles, you'll have to search for used. In the 90's I always bought the turbo axels from scrap yards, re booted them, and ran them on my 4WD 3AT wagons. A FSM has a chart with the different axles for different models - some are interchangeable, some aren't. I'm still hunting for boots so I can rebuild a few I have, so they are ready for my cars the next time I need to swap one. The non turbo ones, boots are easier to find. In no case do you want aftermarket axles. I don't know the manual trans well enough to know, but once you have it apart, you'll be able to see wear on whatever. I have a 5spd DR 4WD transmission here that needs a good home. It was working when I removed it, I think it was under or around 150K, and I have a new clutch kit for it. Been stored indoors.

Measuring the voltage across the coil doesn't tell much. The reading will be the same whether the coil is open or working. The ohm reading for a good IACV coil is 8.6 to 10.6 ohms. There should be open circuit from either pin to the body of the valve. When the engine is cold, disconnecting the IACV coil connector will cause a large change in idle speed. When hot, a smaller change. Unplug what sensor? The CTS can make for random idle and starting troubles. The IACV I had fail open, caused the engine to not idle. As soon as the throttle was released fully, it just shut off. I could keep it idling by manually keeping the pedal down just a bit.

The EA82 doesn't have any area to bore out cylinders other than something like .02 or so for wear. Still would have hte flow limitations due to everything about the heads. Lots of $ for little gain. Adding a turbo would be the same as putting in an EA82T. New ECU, all the sensors, wiring, tuning, and reliability loss. Plus all the time and $. The cooling system is just big enough for the stock EA82. The EA82T was really edgy. Reliable and lowest cost, keep it stock. Want more power and keep the engine reliable, EJ. You might have to be careful with the power, as now your asking the driveline to handle 40% more than it was designed for. Well, maybe 20-30%, since it could have had an EA82T. Side note, EA82Ts had bigger CVJ cups and DOJ cups on the axles.

Are you asking what the torque on the head bolts should be?

I wouldn't swap in an ea82t. Hard to find, more parts are nla. Less reliability. Same amount of work to put an ej 2.2 in it, and you get more power than a turbo without the loss in reliability in the engine.

I've run straight water in ea82s, no problem. They made the coolong system just big enough to do the job, but they didn't cut it that close. My votes: Gunk in radiator Blocked from outside airflow The little fine cooling fins separated from the tubes.

The O2 sensors are not the cause, they don't do anything until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then just fine tune the mix for low emmisions. Check the CTS. Those can cause all kinds of weird and random running and starting problems, without causing a code. The FSM should have a simple ohmmeter test.

Just to add - for anyone who may come across this, you must also check that coolant is in the upper radiator hose. Going only by the recovery tank invites blown headgaskets. This is done by sharply squeezing the hise, and listening for the jiggle pin and gurgling of air.

I would be very concerned about heating bearing above a couple hundred F. It could ruin the hardness, and lead to very quick failure. Typically bearing races are pretty tight press on and off. Meaning it needs to be dissasembled enough to get at everything with big tooling.

The transmission doesn't work, little to loose trying to fix it. Get a FSM. Should be lots of details in there.

Either check with a dealer, or get some blank gasket material in advance, and cut your own. The little one for the valve is pretty simple. Just need to get similar thickness and rated for fuel contact.

The FSM has the details. I don't have one here. The iacv should click, and you can see the valve move if you have it off the throttle body, if you apply 12v to it's coil. I once had a car where the wire to the iacv coil broke inside the harness on the engine.