DaveT

You have to take the cam towers off to remove the heads. Lots of oil leaks from that joint anyways. You want to replace the oil channel o ring with an oem one also. I've always used Fel Pro head gaskets dry, don't know about the blue stuff. It is completely normal and ok for there to be a small crack in the heads between the valve seats. There is a TSB on it. You will have to reset the distributor if you remove it from it's mounting position, and or remove the cam. You do not have to remove either to remove the cam tower. When you align things for timing belt install it will be in the right place of you leave it in place.

Welcome to usmb. For the 79 brat, more people will see your post in the historic generation forum. For the 07, use the newer generation forum.

Sounds like you got it. Definitely get factory service manuals for both cars. For some, there are links for online.

Any EA82 or EA82T to EJ swap is not plug and play. Yes, the EJ is a lot more reliable than an EA82T. And easier to find parts for. And more power. You still need the adapter plate and related stuff you can find in the swap threads. You will need to do extensive wiring harness modification. You will want an entire EJ car to use for the swap, so that you have all of the electrical / harness / ECU etc.

I iacv and or the cts. Including the wiring to them. O2 sensor only fine tunes the mix after fully up to operating temperature.

Typically, alternators ground through the mounting bolts, etc.

I'm not sure if the orings are included. There are a few listed, but apparently, I used them. What I do: Get the headset & conversion kit. If the orings for the pump are not there / correct, go to the dealer. Still need the seal and other parts. At around 100K miles, it's pretty common to need to do a reseal of these engines. 150K miles = alternator brush wears out. Replace the timing belt and 3 idlers every 50K to be sure you are not stranded by a belt breaking. Higher quality parts only. No cheapie kits. Also, 30 years old, regardless of miles, plastic and rubber [seals etc.] are going to be end of life. Always have boot kits for the CVJs on hand. Regrease and reboot axles, don't drive them until they are destroyed and get aftermarket junk. I've been maintaining GL / Loyales since 1988. I've had several. One died in a wreck. Others taken by rust. Rust is the #1 killer, so stay ahead of it. I have an 87 and a 93 currently, with near zero rust. I've driven a couple of them past 200K miles, and rust was the only reason they are gone. But I kept the driveline parts.

Is the groove in the pipe smooth and clean? Is the bore in the pump smooth? I had one remanufactured, with pits. Make sure the thing isn't bent or putting a lot of force against the oring when you bolt down the tab. I have found that silicon plumber's grease can help seal them, and keep hoses from sticking. A few times, I use a small amount of RTV on the oring to seal to the pitted surface of the tune, or housing. IF you decide to try this, everything must be clean and dry. And wait a good day before filling with coolant.

As long as it isn't leaking lots or burning lots, I run Amsoil 10w-40. For the tick, reseal the pump first. I have had some pumps that were audible, some not. Weird idle and drivability issues could be caused by the cts failing. Or loose connection or loose ground. I have 2 4wd wagons with ea82s. I don't plan on giving up on them anytime soon. It's all in your preferences and resources.

They are no longer available. Most likely you don't need the pump, only the seals. A Fel Pro headset conversion kit has the shaft seal. Probably the other o ring Dealer for the micky mouse o ring.

That's good stuff too.

A lot more people would see this in the older generation forum. There are lots of threads and links and explanations there.

Are they extremely large? You might have to use a photo editor to reduce the file size to be under the maximum.

Try the newer generation forum. Make sure you are logged in.

Um, you just did? What year model etc. Do you have?

Wire a parking lamp bulb in place of the link. Go down stream and disconnect things until the lamp goes out.

Too much rtv. The gasket is supposed to be very thin. The surfaces should be cleaned well. I have used rtv as a gasket sealer, very thin amount, tighten right down to proper tourque on assembly. If it ooses out, too much. I have not had leaks doing this. I have also used the spray on copper gasket sealant with good results.

Wow, it's rare for a wiring error to not cause damage, great that it's working now!

Welcome to USMB. EJ is a newer generation engine. You will likely get more replies for this question in that sub forum. Do you have a factory service manual? There are links on a lot of new gen forum threads to online ones. Probably best to start a new thread, rather than adding to a year old one.

Intermittent high resistance connection in the harness between the ignition switch, or the contacts in the solenoid need replacing. There is a thread or 2 about adding a relay, which fixes the high resistance problem.

It's weird they don't show it. I haven't had trouble with one - and I've been running these since 1988. It is a TO-3 case transistor. Marked 1603 on one I have handy. Probably an internal / custom part number, it didn't show up in a quick search. It should be possible to figure out what type it is and find a workable substitute.

There are a couple of really well hidden bolts.

It should be grounded by the frame and mounting bolts. Open ground wouldn't cause a load when it's off. Check for current in the control wires. Check for current in the main output cable. Both when the car is off. Double check the control wiring. Deep discharges like that will kill a battery so it's being damaged every tI'm it happens. Until you can check for those current leaks, unhook the battery between drives.

If it's anything like an ea82 hvac system, they probably ate the sealing foam off of the blend doors. I had to replace all of that also.

Once you get to 50 or more, it's aerodynamic drag. That's why all the new cars almost look the same.