DaveT

Try cleaning the contacts inside the distributor cap. Test the CTS. It's resistance varies with engine temperature. There is a chart in the fsm. I have posted readings on another thread. I don't have access to them atm.

Also, check for vacuum leaks.

Hahaha. The first time I changed the belts, long ago, I had to guess, since the parts book gave me wrong belts. ToOk a try or 2, they just let me exchange them till we got it figured out. I then saved the cardboard sleeves, and wrote the year of the car on them.

1 solenoid is the egr enable / disable. The other is part of the vapor recovery system. Neither will cause noticeable drivability problems. The ecu will give a code for those if they fail. What the others wrote, gas, wires, filters, cts. Read the codes. Yes, the ea82 has an ecu. Remove the plastic panel above the pedals, and you can see a red led blinking through a hole in the edge facing the drivers seat.

The long one goes around all of them and the alternator, not the idler. The short one goes around all of the except the alternator.

Iirc, there is a whole procedure to follow after connecting the greens that has to be followed before the CEL turn on.

The problem with air in the system can be 2 things - when the air pocket builds up big enough, and gets into the water pump. Water pumps don't pump air well. If enough air can get trapped in the thermostat pocket, so that the wax pellet part is dry, it won't open in time to prevent overtemp. Definitely test the thermostat. Running over normal temp while low on coolant often leads to failing headgaskets. I'd be checking for air in the upper hose and the level in the recovery tank before every run until you get this figured out

Does the CEL come on while the car is off / when cranking?

The O2 sensor does not do anything until the ECU sees that the CTS temperature reads that the engine is up to normal operating temperature. 33 = speed sensor 51 = Neutral switch

The belts I have on one are these: NAPA / Gates Green Stripe Fleet runner 9390HD short one, idler tensions, goes on first. 9451HD long one, Alt. tensions, goes on second. They seem to be lasting forever. They should be able to use those numbers to get the lengths. Put tension on both, then run for a few seconds, and re-check the tension. The one you tighten second will be loose.

It is squealing because the 1 belt can't transfer enough power without slipping. The idler can be rebuilt. It uses a standard 62xx or 63xx series ball bearing. Look for one with contact seals for longest life. Should cost less that $15.00.

There are a couple or 3 different configurations, and the 2 I have actually owned used different belts. The belts I have seen on either configuration are always 2 different lengths. Is you A/C compressor closer to the battery, or the alternator closer to the battery? I can look at my EA82 4WD 3AT wagon and see what belts I have. A factory service manual is way better than Chiltons, for everything. Watch ebay, look online for a download. Although, IDR if the list the belt lengths.

The few times I had to clear a flood, it took *several* tries once it started to sputter / almost try to run, before it really caught. With the pedal down the whole time. Only let up once you get to a few 1000 RPMs.

For the Elec trac, I have the 42" mower, 42" snow thrower, and the plow blade that attaches to the rear axle. Thanks, RE: the exhaust. Yeah, master of some.

Typically, there are 2 . AC, Power steering, water pump get both. Alternator gets 1.

The compressor clutch should only engauges in ac and defrost modes - at least for an ea82 powered car. It should cycle on and off depending on the cooling load, controlled by a fixed thermostat in the evaporator. Under high heat conditions, the compressor will be under heavier loading - is it possible the belts are loose? The ac clutch mechanically connects the big pull whichis essentially just a big idler, to the compressor. If the compressor was beginning to sieze, that could make the belts slip even if they are properly tight.

My .02.... OEM = pricey, but in CT w/salted roads, last about 8years. +/- probably varies with model. Aftermarket, Rust out, usually at flanges in much shorter time. Here is what I did: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html All stainless. I have not done the last section yet, but will be soon dealing with that. But the Y pipe and the mid section have been great. If I have to remove a piece to do anything, it just unbolts. No fighting with rusted nuts, stuck parts, etc. The way I made it, I used a tuner cat, and it's a small fraction of the cost to replace it VS the typical cat combined with pipes. This system even passed emissions testing.

So far they are still holding up.

I have never seen a stainless 10 x 1.25. I've had cars with OEM parts. I've looked. The nuts, yes, I have those in stainless. I have found 10mm stainless threaded rod, but never the 1.25 pitch. If anyone ever finds stainless 10 x 1.25, let me know.

10mm x 1.25 2-3 inches long. You may need to helicoil the heads, since they usually strip out of the aluminum.

Welcome! Yes lots of info here. Look around the new gen / old gen forum, depending on what your car is.

Might be worth saving the glass, I'm not sure if that is still available.

Not anything special. Motor turns a worm drive reduction to a pinion gear. A gear section is moved by that pinion, which moves the levers / linkages that push the window.

I've pulled them. A lot of things, just take time. A FSM has helpful information. Make notes / pictures if you think you might have trouble remembering how things were. Remove the glove box, and the kick panels and instrument cluster first. You *might* be able to get it out by just dropping the steering column from it's mounts, but I don't recall.

My 86 came with that jumpered so the compressor was always on. It was ruined when I bought it, at around 75k miles. Removed the mod, put in a new used compressor, never had another problem.