DaveT

I only had one do that, forgot what the cause of the muffler / tail pipe being out of position was, but it was due to something not correct about the end / angle of the tail pipe.

I've had the intake leaks not show with a pressure test. You won't typically see water in the oil until the headgaskets are very well blown. All 7 hoses is a good idea.

There is a coolant passage at the base of the carb or throtitle body. A leak can occur there. Also, the intake manifold gaskets can do this. Use only oem for those. Watch the coolant level in both the radiator and the recovery tank like a hawk. You do not want to be low on coolant.

Are you saying the whole position of the shifter moves? Everything still works ok? In that case, I'd think transmission mounts might be bad.

Unless you have serious suspicion about the lower end, put the heads on it. I avoid the long down time problem by refurbishing a spare engine, then just do the swap on a weekend.

The boots are pretty much the same. You have to disassemble the inner joint to get the outer boot on / off, as described above. Once everything is apart, clean thoroughly, re grease and assemble with new boots.

I did some off the car, one on. It will depend on what you have for a press. It was a lot easier to figure out how to do it off the car. I had spare arms to try things on before going after the car.

Here is my web page write up: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html

I have a thread with pictures, somewhere. No photo bucket involved. I'll have to look tonight.

The clearances get looser when warm. Be careful about adjusting too tight also. You do want the valves to fully close...

For general cleaning, I use kerosene. Much safer than gas.

AS far as I can see from the pics, it looks like different batches of valves or something was used. Notice the small differences between them. I've never done much about cleaning everything, just get rid of loose stuff, wire wheel the valves if they have lots of crud on them. One engine I rebuilt had loads of crud stuck on the intake side of the intake valves, you can't see it until you remove them. You do need to resurface the face of the heads, either by machine shop, or the post apocalyptic method, to get rid of the marks made by the fire rings of the head gaskets..

I've never seen that. Put it in the rare category.

That's the one I was thinking it might be. I do have an extra one, but it sounds like you got it. I'd have to do some checking in the fsm, etc to be 100% on it.

I might have a spare one, if it's what I think you are looking for.

The point of using a moderate size bulb is to allow enough current to flow to help locate the problem. It will light up instead of blowing, saves $ on fuses.

No, just find wires or test leads or something. MAybe a blown fuse, solder wires to it, so it will still clip in. This is a testing thing, not for driving with, etc.

Replace the fuse with a brake light bulb for testing purposes. If / when it is lit, and how brightly, will show when you have a circuit vs short Circuit, etc.

I pulled all 4 rods without splitting the block on an EA82. Checked the clearances with plastiguage. Probably easier with it split, but it wasn't that bad.

I have never experienced this problem, but iluvdrt sounds correct.

I was thinking that also. It does not look like anything I have seen.

There is a whole procedure to use the diagnostic connectors. Simply connecting them does not do much. It should be listed in a link somewhere, it's in the factory service manual. To read an active code, you don't need to connect any. The code is blinked on an LED visible through a hole on the ECU, which is covered by a plastic panel under the steering column. The CEL does not blink the codes.

Wow

Search for a factory service manual. Ebay and online. There are some links in threads on this forum also. The fsm is far better and more complete than any of the generic books.

To get the torque correct, the threads are oiled, per FSM directions. Never had one get loose.