DaveT

The entire SPFI system. But that is a project. The engine below the intake should be the same as your older ones. Brakes, axles, suspension all interchange, except a couple odd differences with axles, the fsm has a chart. The dash in the 93 might have a different instrument cluster. Mine had just an oil light, no voltmeter, so a swapped bits from other older ones and have the full set. Another diffences I discovered between my 86 carb vs 88 and newer spfi, all 3AT s, is the final gear ratio is taller in the carbed one, making it even slower than the lower hp alone compared to the spfi.

Check the CTS.

Kind of looks like someone started swapping a SPFI into a carb car. A few things look similar to my 86 carbed wagon. The fuel filter is not where it should be for SPFI. Look under the steering column, the ECU for the SPFI should be there, along with a LOT of wires on 3 yellowish plugs. To really see it, you have to remove the plastic kick panel that has the A/C knee level vent. I have swapped a SPFI intake onto a carbed block, so that can be done. Converting the whole car from carb to SPFI is a lot bigger deal. I'd want the entire front harness and engine harness from a SPFI. Possibly the dash harness also.

Ok, Are you sure it's the compressor lock up sensor? [which would save the belts] on Loyale AC systems, there are limit switches for refrigerant pressure. IIRC, over by the vapor recovery canister. Check those. Check that the system isn't over charged, unless you know it is not. It is also normal for the compressor to cycle on and off when the system is not under heavy cooling load. There is a thermoswitch in the evaporator. This prevents it from icing up.

At best, makes the compressor work too hard. Bleed some of the exceas out.

Legacy is a new generation car. More people who know them will see yor post in the new generation forum. Yes, the years overlap and confuse people sometimes.

I'm not sure if mine work. I have only very rarely let one get that low.

The maximum safe current in a wire us determined by the insulation temperature and such. Common building code ratings are for low temperature insulation. The alternator can only supply 55 amps for a long time. It could do more for a time determined by when something fails due to overheating, so short overloads are ok. Also the battery is capable if pushing hundreds of amps, and that is the real danger.

Oh, just to note, the title "Subaru Nut" is just an automatic status the message board software give users based on post count. The user's name is in the bar above the post.

Yes, the stock 2WD front axles are lighter than the OEM 4WD axles. There is a chart in the FSM that shows the 3 kinds, and what they came with. I have been using the 2WD ones interchangeably with the 4WD ones, since I'm running stock everything, it's been fine. Gloyale answered regarding the arms / bearings / brakes. I think it was just the bulb missing - But I have a few clusters, so it is possible that I swapped one of those. It's not to hard to get it out and check.

The tube cross member on the 4wd has a couple of ears to mount the diff. The 2WD likely won't have them.

You can use any piece of hose, like 1/2" diameter. Also, a long night screwsriver, touch to block etc, handle to ear area.

I put 4wd 3AT at into a 2WD 3AT wagon. Swap the trailing arms, add the diff mount onto the tube the arms mount on. Had to fabricate the driveshaft center bearing mount. The holes for the moustache bar were visible under the car, but not drilled through all the layers. I drilled them through with a long thin bit, and then up through the wagon back floor, and used a hole saw to make access through the floor so I could put nuts on the bolts. Added the wires into the harness for the 4wd switch and dash light. Depending on years, the rear trans mount may need to be swapped.

They can be tough. Use anti seize when you re assemble.

It's probably not the load, it's the rpm. Low on refrigerant.

Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working correctly. If it will accelerate very gradually, but wants to die if you step on it, that;s a sign of that.

+1 lucky texan. It may take a lot of cranking, but that should do it.

Assuming you have the kick panel removed, you have to just check everything. A fsm with schematics would help, there should be links somewhere. ...

Yes, always be aware that fuses and fusible links can be broken, and you can't tell by looking at them.

Not sure where to are trying to get into the wiring... Going by my experience with 4wd wagons, if none work, the main power feed is broken. Maybe fuse blew or broke.. I had to take the door panel off to bypass the broken power feed wire in the drivers door. The motors have 2 pin connectors. 12v and gnd will decide which way it runs up or down, but again, door interior has to come off. I'm pretty sure that an xt would be similar.

Step 1 22ft lbs Step 2 43ft lbs Step 3 47ft lbs Be sure to clean the holes and the bolts. Oil the threads. The sequence must be followed also, as shown in the shop manual. There should be links somewhere.

Fusible link specifications from my FSM: Square area in mm - melt in 15 seconds current 0.5 - 80Amps 0.85 - 130Amps 1.25 - 190Amps One of these is for the main alternator output, others are the fuses for the main power feeds to the fuse box. Proper fuse size and location is important to protect against starting fires in the wiring.

The fusible links are in the tens of amps range. Not unusual at all. They are in the main power distribution circuitry. I can try to find ratings a bit later. They are used because they are slow to blow, and way less spendy than regular fuses for the high currents would be.

Oh, thanks re: the roof rack. It comes in handy for the once in a while need to haul long things, or sheet goods. The weight is on the rain gutters and front bumper. Tied into the oem rack tracks only for front to back, and no load mounting. Somewhere around 300Lbs it starts to make the car handle funny. Always use ratchet straps and be sure things are secure, drive slower, and look ahead farther, etc.

I guess I'd try driving it some. In 4wd occasionally - on & off a lot. Keep hitting it with penetrating oil. Check it for movement before each drive. Also, driving it off and back on [even if its only moving a little] should help work the crud out, loosen up.