DaveT

Yep, some years ago, I bought a rusty one locally for $150.00. Ran it for another 10 years. Lots of rusty ones around here back then, in CT. 3 years ago, I bought a rust free one from CA, paid about 3K for it plus another 1K to ship it. Supply and demand. I probably have more used parts for them than most local scrap yards, since I need them to keep running them.

Only temporary. If a part is rusted through, a lot of other places are likely soon to fail anyway.

If it is lifter tick, it can be loud, but it's a thin sound. All treble, no bass. Lifter tick often is caused by the seals on th oil pump leaking air in. They are replaceable. Oil pumps are no longer available, except for used ones, which likely would need a reseal.

Going by what I've read on here, from members with more experience tweaking engines than I, you could get a small gain by building an exhaust with pipe a size or 2 bigger than stock, keeping more or less to the factory plumbing arrangement. The major limiting factor on the EA81 and 82 engines is the porting in the heads and the valves. And if you try to modify that stuff, it's big money and or time and little gain. A noticeable gain can be had by fitting the spfi system from an ea82 onto an ea81. I don't recall how that compared to a weber though.

Hi and welcome. You will likely see more replies if you post this in the newer generation sub forum.

Something has to be mechanically stopping the throttle from returning to closed position. No other way to get enough air and fuel in there to get to 4000 rpm.

That would take *lots* of planning I'd think. Lots of researching other members who have done it, how they dealt with all the details. I've swapped an engine in a weekend. I haven't worked against a deadline like that in a long time, I have 3 cars 2 drivers, in part to avoid such stress.

Because if you want more than a little tiny bit more power, you can spend a ton on an ea82, and get less that you would have if you ej it, and that would be easier and cheaper.

100%. Adding a relay is the quick and simple way to make the system reliable. You are correct, the drop is enough to cause the solenoid to move and make noise, but not enough to get the contacts to close and run the starter motor.

Running around with the green connectors connected doesn't hurt anything, you just don't want to so the system functions as intended. Most of time when it won't start or run at all, it's something basic. Most of the codes are a sensor out of spec, solenoid coil open, that kind of thing.

The procedure is very detailed in the factory service manual. You will have more people see this kind of question if you post it in the historic or older generation sub forum, depending on the year of your car.

Hi and welcome. Yep, it's been that way for a while. Most parts are special order from Napa. If this is a car you intend to rely on daily, you'll want to start collecting parts.

+1 what naru wrote.

The block should be flat also. I haven't had warped heads yet I'm thinking it would take some serious abuse ro warp the block. Forget an easy out style extractor. They are only meant to work with bolts snapped off in clean holes, not corroded ones. Read too many stories of snapped of extractors in stuck bolts. Then you have a real mess.

Penetrating oil and heat. I have found that getting the block to normal operating temperature before turning any bolts avoids the snapping problem, if care is used to work any that feel sticky loose. Now if there is anything left exposed when you get the head off, big vise grips and heat, if it's down in the bore, drilling. Must be centered. Then very likely to have to helicoil it. For the heating, I've used a space heater and a heat gun together to get a good soak of heat into everything. Yeah, if the heads are warped that bad, you can tell when you start the sandpaper and glass method. It would just take too long to get them flat that way.

Radiator must be full or you can have air get trapped in the water pump. Never drive if the level in the radiator is low. A little air in the upper hose is sometimes ok, but anything less than full is not good.

What 1LT wrote. Get an oem thermostat in there now. Go through the burping procedure, which should be detailed in numerous threads. Closely monitor coolant level aline the overflow and air in the upper hose. This can take a week of checking before every drive. The spiking is not good. It can slowly cause the headgaskets to fail.

OK. From looking at the pics, and reading some of the info, it looks to me like longer studs go through those cast iron "spacers" to hold the exhaust onto the heads. It's likely the threads are stripped out in the aluminum. I might try one of the thread repair systems on the cast iron parts, rather than removing them and going at the heads.

What year and engine?

The studs should be straight bits of rod that are threaded. No spacers or anything else should be in there. Sometimes the holes get stripped, needing helicoil or timserts, etc. To repair.

Welcome to usmb! Try posting in the newer generation sub forum, since more people will see your question. Check for fuel pressure, and spark before buying parts.

Yes, when you begin sanding, you will see a mark from the fire ring. Sand until it dissappears. The hand sanding as described is resurfacing the heads.

I am confused by the title. MPFI doesn't use a carb, as far as I know. It would have a throttle body. Model & year might help get more replies also.

I have used the glass with sandpaper, no problem. Never did valve seats. On my most recent reseals, I used anaerobic sealant on one engine, on another, I carved out the groove and used o ring stock. I have lapped the valves on a couple, don't know that they needed it. It did not take long to have nice mating surfaces.

Never heard of 6 star. For these engines. I would go by what GD wrote. I have not had to do one of these newer engines yet. I have done a few older ones, and used Fel pro, which is the only brand I have seen recommended other than oem.