DaveT

The crack is so common that there was a tsb from Subaru about it years ago. Headgaskets are oem or Fel Pro only. Intake gaskets are oem only. Also, the 2 o rings on the oil channels, oem.

Looks like the common harmless crack.

I didn't even think of it being British pipe. That's a surprise! That's where I'd connect a gauge. The analog sender port is a lot bigger, don't know what those threads are.

Timing marks are on the flywheel. Could the timing belt be off 1 tooth? Are the bearings in the distributor good? A bad connection or ground could be interfering with something. The fsm has pretty detailed checks for all of the sensors. You also should check them from the ecu connector end, not just the sensor alone.

It's metric. It's very close to 1/8" NPT, but it is not, it won't seal. I have adapters from Amsoil, but don't know the metric dimensions.

Yes, governor stuck could be also. Had one get sticky in my 86, a long long time ago.

One of my 3ATs lost 3rd and reverse. All it was was a small tube that fell out of the valve body to the band piston. So it could be something simple / stupid.

The other thing about lifetime warrantees is that they count on you selling the car before it breaks.

I think it is supposed to be flush on the outer surface, not pressed all the way in. I'm not where I can double check right now. I know the camshaft seal are not pressed in past flush.

I know they fit mix match 86 through 93, if they have ea82 engines. I am not sure about 83s. The flywheel is different between at and manual. There may be a difference in driveshaft length, in which case you would have to swap that also.

Try industrial suppliers - MSCdirect.com McMastercarr.com I have bought both packets of 100 and assortments from them. They also have different grades & materials. Ordinary o rings are very affordable, small ones, 100 only cost a few $. IIRC, most normal car size ones, they don't sell individual, but the price for whatever quantity [varies with the size] is not crazy, and you have lots of spares.

What part broke? Maybe part of the EA82 ones are the same, and the length is just the long shaft?

By the age and miles, it would be no surprise that either an intake or head gasket developed a slow leak. Leading to running over normal temperature while low on coolant. This damages the headgaskets. Can be minor, and nursed along for months, or bad making it un runable. Or anything in between. Either way, once the process has begun, it only gets worse. If one side is that blown, the other can't be good. It will also be leaking oil like mad anyway, simply due to age. If it was never run extremely hot, do a full reseal, and it should be good for at least another 100K, assuming you keep the cooling system at 100%.

There are lots of old threads on here about experimenting and trying to get more power out of EA82s. Lots of money, and or lots of time for small gains. Some of them have all the details as to why.

If you do the swap, keep all the original stuff, and some good notes. Swap it back one for tests and or selling.

Thete is a whole procedure to follow using those connectors. One for read memory, another for clear memory.

My experience with clogged fuel filters is that you loose full power at high demand long runs first. Idle to open throttle, no effect, since the bowl can fill up during the idle time.

I happen to have a printout of various engine HP vs models right here... EA82 SPFI = 90HP @ 5600RPM EA82T = 115HP @ 5200RPM EJ-18 = 110HP @ 5600RPM EJ22 90-93 = 130HP @ 5600RPM EJ22 95-96 = 135HP @ 5400RPM

Just a wild guess, is the accelerator pump working? It's been a long time since I did anything with a carburetor car, but there isn't much else involved.

EA82 SPFI is the same for all years it was made, so nothing to worry about there. The fuel injector should click and spray a noticeable burst of fuel while cranking. Use an ohm meter, check for about 2 ohms between it's 2 wires. Also check for open circuit between 1 of the wires and the throttle body. I have also tested them to verify opening by applying 12V from the battery across the 2 wires - unhooked from the ECU of course. There should be fuel pressure held for hours after a cranking, so this will spray fuel if it is working. Do not make or break the connections near the throttle body, make and break the last connection near the battery! Don't hold it on for a long time, just a few taps is all you need to see it functioning.

The recording isn't high fidelity, but it does sound like lifter tick, at least rythm wise. Rod knock has a lower frequency component to the sound. If it is mostly constant. it may be 1 stick lifter. When it's the oil pump seals, it tends to vary more. As in come and go, and more or fewer lifters ticking.

More description of what is going on would help.

There are a lot of threads about the timing belts, and links to youtube videos. I'd check that next.

Did it ever run? Check that the distributor rotor turn when you crank it.

The fuse is nesisary. If somehow that wire ever shorted to ground, you have an instant flash fire. I almost burned down my first Subaru years ago due to fuse not in the proper location, ie. Close to the power feed source.