DaveT
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Everything posted by DaveT
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Belts loose. Also, once they slip, they get worse. Get a new set and make sure the tension is correct. I have also found that once I install the nelts, I run the engine for a few 10s of seconds, shut down, then re set the tension. Mine have 2 belts, and the common pulleys don't always allow the second belt to slide so the tension is uneven after the short run. It would also be good to check that all the accessory shafts turn freely without the belts, in case you have a bearing failing.
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Urabus84 wrote: "Is it possible for that light to trigger something to make the fuel system "think" it's out of gas?" No. Nothing that fancy in there anywhere. Fuel filters pump crud in the tank other intermittent electric problem [in the ignition circuitry] Best to start as new thread.
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You haven't specified which engine.... EA82s are supposed to be set at 20 degrees BTDC, so the markings are pretty much self explanatory, as there is no 20 degrees ATDC mark. Timing ios set with the green connectors connected. If you have an older engine, pull and plug the vacuum advance line from the distributor. I no longer remember the degrees for the older engines, but I have NEVER seen an engine on anything timed ATDC.
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My 93 had no tach, and only oil light. Swapped in an older gauge set that had both. Had to change the sender to the pressure gauge type, but the same wire was used. Don't remember doing any other wiring additions, and the tach works.
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well, flooding would do it. Just haven't seen that or even read of anyone having it happen.
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The failure description sounds exactly like timing belt failure. Double check the 3 marks, and that the cam pulls turn with the crank. 2nd choice, since you have fuel, investigate spark.
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more testing needed. Check the injector, ohms of coil and ohms to gnd. Apply power, it should spray if the fuel pump has been run. Don't do this for long, you are flooding the engine. Check the wiring from the ECU to the injector. Good idea to check with ohm meter, AND also by applying 12V - while disconnected from the ECU. ECU failures are rare. A factory service manual is invaluable. ebay or search online / on the forum for links / uploads.
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I had one like that. I planned on replacing them with the regular manual belt setup from a GL. Retired the car due to rust before I got to swapping the belts.
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Well, yeah, if I had a dead turbo, I'd sooner put the work into an ej swap.
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Maybe fab was not the best word, but customizing the harness is no small job for someone who hasn't done it. I was guessing that the shop the car was at wasn't a Subaru nodding specialist, so wouldn't know about the adapter plate availability, what radiator, exhaust mods, etc. I doubt a straight repair only shop would touch an El swap kind of project. That's what I was trying to say.
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An ej swap is a totally custom project with a lot of fabrication.
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The IAC is wired directly to the ECU. Iirc, I found the intermittent break with an ohm meter. Found the pins on the ECU that are wired to the IAC using my factory service manual. Disconnect the connector, connect the meter to the harness. It should read something fairly low, wiggle the wiring and the connectors to narrow down where the break is.
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Check all the wire run from the valve to the ECU. A bad connection or bad wire can do the same thing. Code 24 is the IAC. Open or shorted. I once had a wire in the harness on the engine break - inside it's insulation. The way I found it was 2 part. I got lucky, and it decided to be flakey when I was testing with a meter. 2nd, was I disassembled the wrapping from the wiring, and found the 2 wires. Noticed a slightly funny spot, and sure enough, when I bent the wire, it was clearly broken inside the insulation.
