DaveT

A carb fuel pump won't make enough pressure to tun a SPFI. Carbs take 5 to 10psi roughly. SPFI requires over 20psi.

A pressure gauge would be more informative regarding the fuel pressure and supply rate. The cts can cause trouble with cold running, among other things.

The outer race should be pressed in until it hits a stop. The special nut should keep it from moving towards the diff. If that out race that is in there now had hammering like that going on during dissasebly, I would not trust it to last long. Never hammer on bearing components that you intend to use. As much as it sucks, I don't know any way to figure out what's wrong short of dissasembly so that parts can be measured, checked, compared.

Gloyale could be on to something there.

Yes, the retaining nut that requires a special tool is the only way to get the bearing out. The outer races are one piece of steel. The inners are 2 separate races and cages with rollers. The pictures and description on my website are how I did it. Maybe something will help on my site: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html

Something must not be correct. ... it should take less than 150 to get it pulled into place.

Also give it a few turns. Usually you can feel a bearing that's starting to go bad, but it will be masked by the pump and oil. Idlers are easy to tell. I've driven a number of these past 200k miles, have yet to have a power steering pump fail. I should go check the bearings. Close to 30 years and over 150k, the ones I'm running now don't owe me anything.

Sounds good on both deals. With these old models, it makes sense to gather parts, since many are no longer available, and not many left in scrap yards.

These days, you probably need to find an old shop, restoration shop, etc. to get those kind of windshields installed by someone who knows that system. All the modern cars, just use glue in. Most may have never seen that kind of gasket. I did one on a 78 wagon a long time ago. My Dynahoe uses something similar. I installed most of the glass in the cab.

Put the crush washer in. 200ftlbs sounds high. Without double checking the fsm, 150 is closer to normal,and there is no.problem turning the nut a bit more to get the cotter pin in. Notice that there are 2 holes, 90 degrees apart on the axle. The nut has 6 flats. Only a small fraction of a turn needed to get one or the other of the 2 axle holes to line up with the notches.

+1 czny

Sounds like you are talking about the cage. It's the stamped part that keeps the balls spaced evenly. Normally don't wear, but if there was no lube, it won't last long. I have not dissasembled one of those pumps, so I don't know if the bearings are lubed buy the ps fluid, or are sealed ones like on the water pump.

cnc wrote: Couldn't detect the wobbly bearings by hand. Need a crow bar to try to wiggle it with belt tension present. Best to check for failing bearings after removing the belts.

Only use 4WD on wet, snow, or off road. On wet, I'll switch it on for getting moving from a stop, then switch it off. The others, I leave it on. Dry is always 2WD only.

Here is a drawing of the rear wheel bearing removal socket: Subaru Rear Axle Socket.PDF

Don't worry about what you haven't learned yet, how else do you learn, but by asking? Carburetor cleaner is combustible. If for example, your car isn't getting fuel, you can verify the rest of the engine is working by spraying it in the intake, and trying to start it. It will run for a few seconds from a 1 to 2 second spray into the intake, if everything else is ok. I've used it as a kinder starting aid for Diesel engines. Starting ether is extremely volatile. Carburetor cleaner seems to be somewhere in between gasoline, and ether. To test for vacuum leaks, get the car running, at idle, warmed up. Spray various places - hose connections, mating parts where a gasket might be leaking, etc. IF there is a leak, the extra fuel will usually raise the RPM or smooth roughness. With a good sealed working system, the spray should have no effect.

I'm pretty sure the cone washer was the same from at least 76 to 93, on old school models. but it's been a long time since I had a 76 / 78 to double check on. Never had a brat, but it would surprise me if they were different. Legacy and up, I don't know.

They must have changed the cams mid 86? The 86 I used, I measured the cams, they were the same as the 90 something engine I swapped it with.

That would do it. The used parts should be fine. I've found getting the cone washer off trick - use a piece of bar stock, about 1/4 by 3/8 - something about that size - as a punch, and a medium size hammer. Flat end of punch against the flat face of the cone washer, and a few stiff raps should pop it loose, without damaging it.

The spfi will adjust for the change. You might still have emmisions trouble, but if you don't have that, no problem. The EGR is supposed to reduce the temperature in the combustion chamber, might reduce pinging in some circumstances. Lowers NO2 emmisions. It should run fine blocked, if you have noticeable trouble, it could always be added back on later.

Carburetor cleaner. How can a parts shop not know what that is?

The relay should be energised by a wire from the ECU. Connect a voltmeter or small test light to the coil of the relay, and sre if it gets power while cranking. Next step, move to the pin on the ECU.

If it's a carburetor, it will have an odd shaped metal air cleaner case on top of the carb.. If it's SPFI, the rubber boot on top of the throttle body should have SPFI embossed in the rubber, and the air cleaner is a box on the fender, side opposite the battery. MPFI I haven't seen, they were not common. Turbo, well, there is a turbo somewhere near the engine. Alternate - take a picture of what's under the hood, and post it.

Also, with some cases of dirty connections, or loose contacts, ohms can falsely indicate that a wire is ok. To be 100% sure, you have to use other information, and draw current appropriate to the circuit that the wire is in would normally see. I've seen situations where ohms would indicate the wire is ok, but try to pull a few amps through it, and it's open, or high enough resistance to interfere with the load operating.

Yes, they are all EA82. Carb, SPFI, MPFI, or Turbo - all different fuel systems and controls.