DaveT
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Everything posted by DaveT
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I think, but am not sure, that 87 and newer are SPFI vs carburetor. It makes a big difference in what the relay is controlled by.
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Year and engine type?
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The socket one? I think I can make up a drawing later tonight.
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I have one of the official sockets for them. It will work if the nut isn't stuck. For the tight ones, I modified a tool for my air powered impact hammer. Ground the end so it could hit the notch and not deform it. Buzzed it enough to get it to turn, then the socket did the rest. I used by HD Dremel tool to cut the staked edge out, otherwise forget turning it.
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Didn't intend to sound negative. Thank you for the thought, I don't know Rob. I'm hoping to find time to trace out one of the correct ecu this winter. I really killed my momentum when I realized I had started with an oddball one that I picked off the spare parts pile. The ones I'm running (and that seem to be common ) are significantly different.
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There was a TSB years ago about small cracks between the valves. They are not a problem. Nearly every head I've had off an ea82 has them. I've not had any problem caused by those small cracks. I've read about people trying to fix them, they come back. The coolant pushing out of the radiator and overheating is typical of failed headgaskets. It is not always visible. It only takes a very tiNY pinhole of a leak to let gasses at hundreds of psi to leak into the cooling system.
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I never had one go bad until a couple years ago. But they are all around 30 yrs old now, so not a surprise. I got a new one at a dealer. I figure even at $90.00 it's cheap considering it should last 30 years....
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oh, yes, turbo would be different for sure.
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djellum wrote: your lowering the compression going to the carb motor, There must be some variations on this. The one I swapped - the bore and stroke are the same. The cams are the same. Lifters the same. The heads and valves are the same as far as the combustion chamber. Only difference was maybe the EGR port. Pistons the same, as far as can bee seen from the top at least, The swapped one had no noticeable difference in power under any driving situation I experienced.
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The CTS [coolant temperature sensor] is the 2 wire sensor on the lower part of the thermostat housing. The ECU uses it to monitor the engine temperature, and adjust the fuel mix for temperature. It dopes the job of a choke on old carburetor engines. The thermoswitch on the radiator only turns the fan on and off. The 1 wire temperature sensor on the thermostat housing only operates the temperature gauge on the dash.
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I did this once, long ago. Iirc, the egr pipe is slightly different. Just look over all those smaller bits closely. The spfi intake should otherwise go right on the older block. Have to change the distributor also. Inside the block, heads, etc. All the same parts, so no problems there.
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Idle air control valve and or the coolant temperature sensor. Wouldn't hurt to check both.
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yikes!
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DaveT replied to dirty_mech's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXBreaker bar with a pipe to lenthen the handle. Good to be sure that you are balanced so that if it suddenly let's go that you don't fall or slam your hand into something. I weigh more than I can lift, at least in any position i could be half under a car, so pushing down works better for me. Sometimes I've found a way to use a leg to aid the pushing when the angles of my arm are lousy for mechanical advantage. But when I'm serios, I fire up the compressor and use the impact wrench.
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I'll go with the heads are off the block. If they leak, at the very least, they'll need lapping. Got to remove one to see if it's leaking due to crud / carbon, rust, wear or burned.
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I use a big gear puller to push the axle out. Then a piece of bar stock I cut to make an offset to push out 1 bearing. Then a big bolt for the second bearing. Both pushed with the gear puller. It's a 2 arm puller, and it's a little funky , but there is a way to get it to grip. To reassemble, I have a big bolt and nut and washers and spacers.
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The selector doors are vacuum. The temperature slider moves a mechanical door. In a stock one, the only time the recirculation vs outside intake air door is in recirculate mode is high ac.
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Nuts, I missread, forget the 82 line above. Can't edit from mobile
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82 don't use vacuum for the controls. It would be good to verify that the engine is running at normal temperature, that is, check the thermostat.
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There should be some old threads about tweaking the turbos on the forum. The big problem is the stock turbo system regularly cracked heads, had barely adequate cooling. Any power increase will trade away reliability further.
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When I did rear bearings, not long ago, I found the drive shaft would not come off without removing or mostly removing the 2 arm mounting bolts and the shock. Maybe loosening them and disconnecting the shock would work.
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Might be worth checking the injector too. Maybe stuck open. Fuel pressure should be around 20PSI. Significantly more or less could cause trouble also.
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Would not hurt to verify timing, belts on correct, etc. Did it run after he worked on it?
