DaveT

Are you adding the 4wd also? I added 4WD to a 3AT wagon. Swapped the fwd transmission for a 4wd, and added the parts for the 4wd

The CEL on and off is completely normal for the open coil failure. Almost every oem solenoid I have had has failed. I've been running ea82 cars since 1988. My same Toyota solenoids get moved from car to car, since about 1990. I'm in CT it is nowhere near as hot all the time here.

I've never had one intermittently open. It's just seemingly random when the ecu decides to check it, and then take the action to report it. The solenoid is only activated under certain circumstances.

Hi and welcome. You may get more answers in the newer generation sub forum.

I run 4000rpm at 65 all the time. Not a problem, these engines are made for rpms.

Fancy generators may have low oil shutdown, since typically, no one is sitting in front of the control panel monitoring the gauges. I have not seen it on a car, but I don't do new cars, so I can't say about the newest ones.

That on and off is typical of the coil open failure of the egr solenoid. Robm is the member who knows about the one from India. I have a web page for the Toyota solenoid mod. It doesn't hurt to check grounds, you want those in good condition also. Clean them and apply anti seize compound.

Engine turns, ok, good. Does the distributor rotor turn with the engine?

The springs hold the car up. The strut is mostly a shock absorber, so it doesn't bounce like a ball.

+1 what naru wrote.

Replacing the brush fixed it in my cases.

Seems odd... I never bothered to measure the battery voltage when I got those symptoms, as I had already known from previous experience what it meant. It's always been one of the slip ring brushes in the alternator has worn to the point of barely making contact. Maybe it's making just enough to still output at raised rpm, but not at idle.

It is normal for the 34 code to come and go when the solenoid coil is open. I use Toyota solenoids to replace the Subaru ones. They are many times more reliable.

The o2 light blinks a normal code. The green and white 1 pin connectors put the ecu into diagnostic mode or clear codes or read memory mode. In 49 state cars, the 34 egr code is set by only one thing. The ecu can tell if the coil is open electrically. The ecu does not know if the solenoid valve itself opens, or the egr valve. In ca cars, there is a sensor for egr gas temperature - that one should sense a problem such as the solenoid doesn't allow the egr to open when it is supposed to. It should give a different code, but I am not certain, as I have not had that situation arise.

Looks good!

Look on the older generation forum. Early ea82 were carbed with a Hitachi. Somewhere after or about 87 they went to SPFI.

All you describe matches a fairly well blown headgasket. Coolant in oil, and white smoke is only going to happen to completely and fully blown geadgaskets. Others on here will know what risk of other damage has been done to your engine. Some can survive overheats, and just replace the gaskets, some ruin the rod bearings, etc. Need to know the engine size and year.

Short drives. Check for air in the upper radiator hose and the level in the recovery tank, before every drive. It doesn't take much loss to cause trouble. Top off. Don't open the radiator cap to check level unless the upper hose check indicates low coolant. If you run with air in the radiator, and you see the temperature gauge go above normal - not even overheat - headgaskets are at risk. I've experienced this more than once. The damage may begin showing up in 6 hours, 6 days, 6 weeks, or 6 months.

A small piece of copper wire looped around the check valve on the cap is what I have done.

Old radiator. Get a new one. ASAP. Before you run low on coolant and need to do the headgaskets also. If you are not at high altitudes, and have to drive it, modify the radiator cap so the system does not pressurize. This will minimise coolant loss.

yeah, the newer gen and older gen overlapped a couple of years. Only meant to get you in the place where more of the people familiar with your car will see the post.

Yes, those old engines were reliable as anything. I had a 76 and a 78. Drove over 250,000 miles on the 76. Forgot how much on the 78. The 2 worst things that happened is once, I overheated the 76 while low on coolant, blew the head gaskets. Got that fixed. The second, was one of the keepers that hold the valve spring to the valve disappeared while driving to work. Ran crappy, but I got to work, then home, where I fixed it on the car. NEVER got stranded anywhere in one of those cars. EA82s, broke a few timing belts, but that's been the only engine related thing that stranded me. Low coolant overheats due to sneaky leaks caused a few head gasket replacements over the years - since 1988. How I learned that watching the coolant level is #1 thing to ensure saving lots of work.

Im not sure what engine you are working on, this may matter. Is it possible that you have to move the crank so that no pistons are at TDC to set the camshaft position, and then, one that is done, put the crank back into position for the belt install?

oh, oops! I'm going to edit that, so no one gets confused. I must have mixed up whatever I read, or it was about the DOHC.

For doing one of these swaps, yes, get a whole doner car.