DaveT

The FSM likely has dimensions for how to check the rear alignment. There isn't much adjust-ability in it. The FSM does have alignment dimensions for the front, and I've done that. Its more of a project to replace the bearings, So I'd see how they feel, how the grease looks, how the seals look, etc. My recent rear bearing project: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html

aspwholesale.com has every part for the OEM Hitachi alternators. And lots more. I bought bearings, brushes, slip rings, rectifiers, regulators, insulators. I do have electronics background, so these things are no big deal to me to repair, I know most just buy re manufactured ones.

Where can that bushing kit be ordered?

I'm only guessing, but getting the bushings out is going to be tough with any rust. The backing plate for the brake system is held onto the arm with 3 bolts and nuts, easy to swap. Use anti seize compound on bolts etc. when you reassemble. Rear trailing arm sounds like what you are talking about replacing. Try to verify that the tube that they bolt to isn't damaged. You'll need 17mm wrench and a 17mm socket with extensions to get all of the mounting bolts / nuts. Some might be pretty stuck, so go easy - work them off gradually if they feel like they start getting tighter after beginning to unscrew. Use penetrating oil on them to help also. If you just go at rusty bolt hard, you can snap them and make the project a lot more work. Since you'll be into the brakes, check all that stuff too.

This sounds odd.. The belts are driven by the crankshaft. How can the speed be varying? Are they slipping? Slipping is usually accompanied by squealing. The voltage measurement to verify charging should be done with no accessories turned on, engine idling, and also, raise the RPM to 1000-1500 or so, if the voltage is below 13.8. [it also should not go crazy high, like much over 14V] At the extreme slow side of idle, the alternator doesn't put out a lot of power. I don't know about after market alternators, I have always rebuilt my own.

You can limp it along fine for now. Just be neurotic about checking the coolant, and find that leak. Keep that and the other stuff full, and you won't hurt anything.

Oil pump can be serviced without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the radiator. Might as well do the timing belts and idlers at the same time.

I have to add, maybe not from that same place, but somewhere. Thanks, and you're welcome.

With an older car, you sometimes get a run of small to medium repairs. Get past them, and it should level off again.

I've had several GLS and Loyales. Never noticed a difference in the fenders, other than how the trim strips are attached. I think I bought a pair years ago, $75 or $90 comes to mind.

Drawing a vacuum on the ac system isn't just to check for leaks. It removes air and moisture from the system.

Check one of the nation wide used parts places?

Does that Wurth paste set up hard, or with some give?

I'll be making more, after a few more runs, assuming they hold. I'll take pics then.

Having gotten tired of having exhaust gaskets either failing when they fall apart, or crumbling when I have to disconnect a flange for some other reason, I decided to try something different. I take a piece of aluminum foil. trace a gasket on it. Apply a stripe of copper RTV in the gasket area. Lay a piece of woven fiberglass over it. Apply RTV again. Do this for a total of 4 layers. The last layer, is RTV then aluminum foil. Clamp the whole thing between a couple of 1/2" thick steel plates, with spacers to hold it at .050" Let dry overnight or 2. Remove clamps, cut out holes and trim. So far, the pair I made for the heads to Y pipe are holding after 5) 30minute + drives. Will update as needed....

The earlier comments about street racing reminded me of something from long ago. I think I was driving my 78 wagon. One night, I was going through a small downtown. Stopped at a light. Street was wet from recent rain. NO one around. A kind of old looking pickup truck pulls up beside me, and the driver is revving the engine like "wanna race?" I clicked it into 4WD. Light turned green, I floored it and dropped the clutch. Beat the guy across the intersection, not even close. Of course, he blew by me a little way into the block, but I also stopped accelerating at 30MPH, not that it would have mattered.

If you sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose, you should hear the giggle pin. Also, maybe some gurgles, if there is air in the system. Ideally, there should be no air. It's very important to get any big air pockets out before driving. If everything is working and sealed, small gurgles of air should get less each drive cycle.

The only way to get all of the coolant out of the engine is to dissasembled it. An oem or high quality aftermarket thermostat has a giggle pin, and does not seal perfectly enough to prevent fluid from draining. If you star the engine after the radiator drains, the water pump is left without water as only what's left in its body is there. Water pumps are bad at moving air. The thermostat will not open, since coolant is not circulating. Running with low coolant is a really bad idea.

There is usually an idler on the v belts that has a small bearing that can go bad. There are 3 on the timing belt system. Once you have it running again, find the source of the squealing. Bad bearing noises don't make it run bad, but you're on borrowed time before they fail and stop you.

Is yours broken, or just leaky seal?

I had one once that wanted to track kind of close to one side. I flipped it, and it was more centered.

IT won't hurt anything to run it that way. The VRS [or lack of it] won't make a noticeable effect on running. Technically, only a tiny difference in that you loose the fuel that evaporates. The EGR system reduces combustion temperature, when beneficial. i never noticed a big difference in how the engine ran one way or the other, but if it reduces knocking, that gets more power. There was some more detailed discussion of this system on another thread recently. The one that broke, and you plugged, is part of the VRS. These systems don't harm anything performance wise, so I don't understand the getting rid of them. Once you use Toyota solenoids, they are very reliable. I'm still using the same Toyota solenoids I put in my first [1986] GL, back in 1989 or so. Never had to do another thing to those systems. I've been running and maintaining GLs / Loyales since 1988. How it runs when warm won't have anything to do with these. The CTS and IAC valve are the 2 more common things to bother idle regardless of temperature.

I remembered there was someone that did real increases on these old engines. Also remembered it was expensive. Some of the expense on this particular ones is probably the airplane / flight specific stuff..... Even still, that custom stuff isn't going to be cheap. And an EJ is still going to be more powerful, and since it's not being pushed beyond it's original design, more reliable.

Yeah, missing is also an option. Should be pretty similar, if not identical.

A picture might help. The solenoid for the EGR disables the EGR under certain circumstances. I think one of them is while the engine is not warmed up. EGR helps reduce pinging and NO emissions. No negative effects by having it function properly. The vapor recovery system burns off fuel fumes you paid for rather than letting them escape into the air. I see no reason not to restore these systems, but not everyone does. I have used toyota solenoids to replace the OEM ones, as they almost always fail. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html The canister [and check valve] is there to operate the HVAC system, even when the manifold vacuum is gone due to wide open throttle.