DaveT

Usually, they click, and it gets worse in sharp turns, so try the suggestion above. Aftermarket axles are junk [with a few exceptions that can be found searching other similar threads] I have only rebuilt OEM Subaru axles, many times. [they key is to notice the torn boot before they start clicking] Far better than the typical aftermarket ones. It is harder to find OEM ones now, I'll admit.

I have limped them around with mildly failing headgaskets, while resealing a spare engine. Forget stop leak type stuff. It is meant to keep 15psi liquid inside, not 100s of psi hot gasses out. Best chance is make a zero pressure cap. Before every cold start, check level and air, add water if low. Short drives, not hours. If it is to the point where it pushes a lot of coolant into the recovery tank, that's about the end of it. It will get progressively worse. Any over temp will accelerate the problem. I'd consider removing the thermostat also.

If you use Fel Pro perma-tourque gaskets you don't retourque. As far as I know, oem still require it.

Yes, it takes time. Carefully watching can help avoid causing it to get worse while you hunt down regular leaks, etc. Fins can be cooler than the ends, as they are thinner, and loose heat quicker than the tanks. I have often found that after installing a new hose, the clamps need another twist of the clamp screw to reseal after a run cycle.

The one I had to do immediately went well. I found that my bearing splitter was a decent fit for it. I used 2 grade 8 bolts to apply pressure against the diff housing, and worked it off by gradually turning the 2 bolts. I'll probably put up a web page of the whole rear wheel bearing project in a few days. I just have to reassemble the brake parts and bolt the wheel back on now.

Hearing coolant slosh in the heater means significant coolant loss. That's not good. That means shut it off and get it full. The tests from what I have seen on the forum many times, often doesn't give accurate results, at least until there are many other signs making it obvious that the failure is the headgaskets. The procedure I wrote previously is how I determine if the headgaskets are failing. Run zero pressure, very and re verify no other leaks, known condition of radiator and heater. If all is well, any small amount of air gets worked out over several cycles. If air stays, or increases, especially if the recovery bottle gains fluid, not looking good for headgaskets. If coolant keeps going away, some other leak is more likely.

Some rust dust did fall out. I do have others that are stuck, and intend to get at pulling them so I can get anti seize in there before they REALLY get stuck... I forgot to spray some Kroil in there, off to do that before bed now...

upper hose sounds bad. If it was new, it's compromised now. With pressure, yes, anything not sealed well will be more likely to leak. How quickly did the leaking show up? It normally takes time for the engine heat to build enough to start expansion, where exhaust gas leaking through head gaskets is immediate. If the leak has advanced enough - tiny beginning failure can be very slow also.. The blockage if any has nothing to do with the leaking. The water pump can't make enough pressure to have any problem with being blocked. Radiator hot on one end and cold on the other does indicate no / low flow. Note, it won't flow until the thermostat opens. A little green on the brass connections isn't unusual. Stop leak is a worry. It would be very good to flow check the heater core also. If that is blocked, it can interfere with the thermostat opening as things warm up. You could rule it out by using a loop of heater hose in place of the heater core.

I have to remove the rear axle from the diff on my 4WD wagon. Of coarse, it's stuck. The roll pin came out fine. How aggressive can I get with pulling / prying before I have to worry about breaking something in the diff? I really rather not have to get into repairing that also. I'm actually surprised this one is stuck, it's on my CA car, and everything else I've disassembled has been almost as good as when I first had my 1990 Loyale when it was 2 years old. From looking at the FSM drawings, it looks like there is a small bolt that hold the stub into the diff. Are these removable without dissembling the diff? Can they be reassembled? If that bolt were to snap while pulling the axle, could I get at whatever I need to by removing the back cover of the diff, or am I stuck with fully disassembling at that point?

UV dye for coolant system is a good idea also. Checking for leaks both while hot, cold, and in between. If the temperature starts going above normal, that's bad. Time to stop and check levels and air. Running over normal temperature while low on coolant accelerates headgasket failure.

Ok, that fan is working unless it is making horrible noises. I wanted to know it was there. The gauge varies from car to car. I have had 1 that stayed around 1/8, one that stayed around 1/4, one that stayed around 1/2. Actually, more than one of each. The important thing is where has it always stayed? And even if it changed a bit with a new thermostat, it should stay at it's new position. Detecting the beginning tiny headgasket failure is a process. Before every drive from a cold start, check the level in the recovery tank, and the air in the upper hose. Take notes. Over the course of a week, note trends. Running zero pressure can help sort this out in that a pinhole leak where the coolant evaporates before you can see it won't loose coolant anywhere near as fast.

I've been running 2 ea82s with zero pressure caps for a few years with no problems. But I'm not in high altitudes. Keep monitoring for a week or 2. Is the engine driven fan working? Are all of the fine fins still attached to the radiator tubes? My flow test for radiators - out of car, fill with water with one end down. Cap ports so it will fill up. release the main outlet / inlet that is at the bottom. The water should fall out very quickly. Almost as if it's just a tank. Repeat in opposite direction. Note, it's helpful to have done this with a known good radiator so you have a reference. The beginning of headgasket leaks can be tiny. I've had them where it took a week, checking even time before starting the engine. Check the level by paying close attention to the recovery tank level, and squeezeing the upper hose listening for the giggle pin and air gurgles. Don't open the cap unless you have to add water. Air should get less each cycle, not more. Check and re check for tiny leaks, both cold and hot.

That seems pretty odd. I've not seen any evidence of that sort of amount of water in the doors, in the ones I have disassembled. Leave the interior panel off, have someone spray water on the outside while looking from inside the car.

The time I found the noisy driveshaft, I just unhooked the thing at the rear diff. It was obvious when turning by hand in opposite directions across the bad u joint. One was wiggly One was sticky / rough when bending.

Exhaust leak? Bad u joint or center bearing?

150 psi is a bit high to apply to anything that you don't have specific information on its ratings.

The cabl end will need some kind of bracket or clamp holding the outer jacket still. The ineer cable or wire pulls.on the linkage for the choke. Some may coma with parts, some may not. It's been too long so I don't remeber....

Manual choke has to be separate. It's a pull cable that goes into the drivers area. You need full choke to start usually, then back of once fired, then open once running well warmed up.

Looks like that is right

Verify by looking at the distributor installation instructions. With cylinder 1 at tdc the rotor should be pointing near 1 wire. It will run pretty far out. Ignition timing mark and timing belt installation mark are 2 very different things. The comment about feeling pressure come out of the intake sounds like wrong belt installation.

Just a double check the timing belt setting marks are the 3 lines, not the ones marked with degrees and tdc.

Best I can think of is take a look here: https://www.fmmotorparts.com/brands/fel-pro.html See if the where to buy helps. I have the fel pro head set & conversion kit numbers at home.

That's odd. The normal loyale caliper pistons have to be screwed back in. Pressing with any kind of real force will break the adjuster inside that keeps the parking brake working as the pads wear down.

How about Fel pro? Also, the new gaskets - with proper care- ie no overheating with low coolant- should be good for at least 150k miles, so divide the cost per mile for a way to consider the value. The oem only intake gaskets are part of this...

From reading many older threads that went into great detail regarding intake airflow and power, mods,etc. It is the valves and port geometry that limits ea82 engines power level.