DaveT

If you used the "normal looking" timing marks, it will not run. Those are only for using a light, after things are running, to do the fine adjustment. The 3 line mark | | | is the only one for timing belt installation. I don't know about the videos, there were no videos when I learned to install timing belts.

Welcome , there is a lot of information on this forum.

Have fun! The best I did was 150. For 92 loyale. It had rust, and some mechanical stuff to get right, but I drove it for 10 years.

I can't add much RE: new cars, I don't buy new. But In general, from using logic and general financial advise, extended warranties are profit centers for dealers. They know the car isn't likely to have failures that are covered in the warranty period, and or expect the average buyer to sell the car before the warranty used up.

Just make sure the price is lower than the worst couple of things that could be wrong, compared to a properly running one. For me, I'll fix pretty much anything if the body is rust free.

Yes, that bracket goes under one of the intake bolts.

Do not use the 0 mark. What the other was wrote above works, and is the procedure from the factory service manual. Use only the 3 vertical marks for the 2 installation steps.

I only use the lug wrench on lug nuts. I use my impact wrench only on removing very stuck parts, when I don't care if something breaks, or there is no good way to hold the other piece. And sometimes, things like 2-1/2" nuts on my backhoe.

Good to see someone else is running zero pressure cooling system without trouble. I like the tank add in. On my older cars I just made the check valve in the radiator cap stuck open.

99% of the egr code is the solenoid coil is failed open. There is a link to my solenoid swap page somewhere on another code 34 thread. I have never experienced drivability issues caused by code 34. It only indicates the coil of the solenoid, nothing more. The idle air control valve effects idle. Once the throttle is open, it has little effect.

It's a standard 6200 series bearing. But you want one with contact seals. The number is usually molded into the rubber of the seals on the side of the bearing.

Cooling system leak. Any of the several hoses. Have to check the easy things first. Over heat while low on coolant usually causes the headgaskets to be damaged. NO way to know until you find and fix all of the leaks. This is from my experience with the non turbo ea82s. Coolant and oil don't mix unless the headgasket is extremely well blown. The oil leaks usually are from the journal that brings oil up to the overhead cam. Headgaskets and a little o ring udually contribute, and slowly get worse. You are over miles and time due for a reseal if you want to try to not leave oil drops everywhere.

Vibration frequency? below even the lowest bass notes? or can you hear it? Drive shaft U joints I've had make a low note vibration at highway speeds. Wheels / tires out of balance, more of something you just feel.

Press the bearing out and replace it.

Pressing out axle stub from a spare one, first I ever disassembled. Pressing out stub on car - Oooh, nice crumbs ... Pressing Outer race on car: I had to unbolt the 2 arm pivots, and the entire shock at various times, to get the DOJ shaft out, etc. The rubber bushings at the 2 pivot points are odd - not centered, the arm has been rubbing metal on metal on the in board ends of the mounting / suspension cross member attachment points. Some of my spares the rubber is centered, some are offset, would do the same. Are these rubber bushings available anywhere? - as better than OEM?

For all the work of putting in a turbo, you could do the ej swap and have a lot better reliability. Even a plain 2.2 is about 40% power increase.

Stopped at NAPA this am. They can get all the parts, even the drums. But won't have them till early next week. I've got spares from other cars, so I'll take a look and see what condition they are in. They wanted 90 ish for a wheel bearing! The other parts weren't too pricy. I already have the special socket for unscrewing the bearing assy, bought it years ago, and never ended up needing it until now.

Checking once every seven days is six days too long when verifying cooling system problems. Pressure test will almost never show the beginning headgasket leak that slowly puts air into the system.

Wow, both brake return springs missing. One completely, one busted & bent. More odd noises explained.

So driving down the highway, and I start hearing weird noises from the back of my 4WD wagon. Steering felt a little odd sometimes too. Jacked up the left rear wheel just now. The entire brake drum wiggles! Unscrew the nut by hand after pulling the cotter pin! Drum looks ok, spline looks ok. Seal is hard as a rock. Bearings sound dry and a little crunchy. More disassembly for me.... I got it from CA in 2014, didn't notice anything unusual when I put new tires on it last spring or fall.

The jiggle pins is part of an oem or high quality aftermarket thermostat. It is loose, and will make a noise when the hose is pinched - If there is coolant in the upper hose. I'm not sure on the geometry of your particular car, as different models vary, but opening the Cap on my radiator lets air in, so I don't open that just to check the level. If the system is 100% full of coolant, you should hear the jiggle pin. Note, it isn't loud. If the coolant is low, the hose feels softer and very little sound. In between , you should hear gurgles & jiggle pin. Best to do this check cold.

Checking coolant level is not just the level in the recovery tank. I was tricked by this once, many years ago, and learned the hard way, blowing headgaskets due to low coolant. Sharply pinch the upper radiator hose, listen for gurgles and the jiggle pin. There should be very little to no air in the upper hose.

I have a couple of special effects builds eating my time right now, but will get back to this research. I was hoping for a few more ECU nameplate info with model & year to help decide which ECU to re-start tracing, since I inadvertently picked an odd one to start with. Since there are at least a few differences in the ECUs, when I get back into it, should I restart on this thread, or start a new one?

I already have 86 and 90 wagon (actually all models) but other years, I'd save from the trash, if no one else wants needs them.

Check the wiring for the solenoid also. The ECU only can tell if the circuit to the coil is open or shorted. The code for the egr solenoid is the same from 87 through 92 for 4wd wagons, by 1st hand experience. I never bothered to reset the code, after a drive or 2 it clears on its own.