DaveT

The last post was from 2012. I think the car is sold by now.

Check for line pressure / flow at the transmission cooler lines.

What the others wrote. Replace the 3 idlers / bearings when you change the belts. They usually are good for about as long as the belt, but not 2 belts. Use only top quality idlers and belts, not cheap ones.

Fel Pro for all but the intake gaskets. Idk about pre ea82. But the oem ones I bought a few years ago are some kind of reenforced black slippery stuff. The paper ones kept failing on me. I've seen a thread or 2 where someone swapped a SPFI intake onto an EA81 so maybe those gaskets will fit.

Check for pitting in the pump socket, and the groove the oring goes in on the pipe. The surfaces have to be good for a seal. I have used the red rtv to seal pitted ones - but new o ring, put it together install th bolt into the head, install radiator hose - all before the rtv sets. Everything must be cleaned and dried completely for it to work. And don't add coolant or try to run it until a day goes by.

I am not familiar with that specific year model. Going by what I know from the SPFI EA82s the O2 sensor should have no effect until the engine e is close to normal operating temperature. Double checking everything in the carb seems like a good idea. Also, whatever system is used to control emissions related stuff. Test any switches and sensors and solenoids etc.

EA81 to EA81 would probably not be too bad. Both carbed. Most of the power increase in EA81 vs ea82 is due to SPFI, iirc. I've seen threads where the SPFI is swapped onto EA81. But swapping from carb to spfi or turbo is big electrical on top of mechanical. If you want reliable, you don't want turbo. The overhead cam engines EA82 and up are wider than the old pushrod engines, and require more mods to the frame I think to get them in.

If you are not seeing lots of drips under the car, the most likely thing to check is the vacuum modulator. I'm assuming this car has one. The diaphragm gets old, and a crack begins to allow atf to be sucked into the manifold vacuum. It can be very slow, and gradually get worse. Should not be an expensive repair.

+1. Wd40 is great for freeing things up, but you need something permanent afterwords.

What Length wrote. It's an o ring. When hey are old and squished flat, they don't seal anymore found that silicon plumber's grease is good for this and all cooling hose connections. The hoses don't get stuck. Be sure to check the clamps after a run or 2.

It depends. What engine is in the Brat now. What type of EA82 are you trying to transplant? Carb to SPFI or turbo is a lot of electrical work on top of any mechanical.

I don't have a way to post a pic right now. Hopefully someone will come along soon. Factory service manual has this information, there are some parts of it online somewhere. More or less the 2 valve cover breathers are connected. There's a t in the line that goes to the pcv valve. Another t goes to the intake boot, if you have the tsb mod or car that came out after it.

The pcv valve is on the back of the intake manifold about under the throttle body. You definitely need another diagnosis. I've been driving and maintaining ea82 spfi wagons since 1988.

Timing belts breaking is no big deal on ea82s. Replace the belts and idlers, good to go. Yes it's inconvenience, but not fatal to the engine.

You have to align to the 3 vertical lines mark. Put 1 belt on. Rotate the crankshaft 1 turn, stopping at the center of the 3 lines again. Put second belt on. I don't recall the disty positions off the top of my head. But be aware the helical cut of the gears turns it a bit, and sometimes can get you off a bit. The disty wrong won't cause uneven cranking sounds.

I buy titanium coated and or coball drill bits from USA brands from industrial supply places, they seem to be a lot better than typical home owner bits. MSC and McMastercarr are the 2 I buy from.

If the cranking sound is uneven rythm, double check the timing marks.

Another note to add - I've replaced many timing belts, never found the distributor adjustment off by more than a couple of degrees. As long as the distributor was reinstalled correctly, the adjustment should be small a well.

Lower back corner of the recessed area the door closes into. Should be a black rubber bumper looking thing.

Pretty sure the fenders are the same. This could be checked by comparing / test fitting a side light from GL to DL. The side lights fit the fenders, and the DL side lights fit to the DL headlights. That's why the other post mentioned getting the whole front, from light to light. I'd grab the harness also, so I could wire up an adapter.

The factory service manual has all of this. There may be an online version somewhere. There are also other key tips and tricks to know. Many threads about resealing on this forum.

Not the most common alternator failure mode. The old battery was definitely past official end of life, just due to age.

Wouldn't hurt to check the CTS also. Last thing to do is adjust the idle. Verify everything else is correct first.

I think yes, what you are looking for is the front lights and grill from a DL.

Legacy vs loyale totally different. Maybe a few of the most common bolts would interchange. The bad radiator combined with multiple overheats probably caused the headgaskets to fail.