DaveT

I had a CTS go bad, and make the idle speed nutty. Intermittent. No code, since the bogus readings were all inside the limits, just wrong. The CTS is the 2 wire sensor on the lower part of the thermostat housing.

If you have them weld on stainless flanges, and use stainless nuts & bolts, they come right apart.

initial high idle when very cold I've seen over 2000.

I did some more tracing to locate the always on part of the power supply. Starting to get the idea that there are 2 different versions / wiring pinouts for ECUs, between older GLs and Loyales possibly.

That is very different from what this thread is about. Loyale is the older generation. It is not a drop in bolt on at all. It has been done, it's a big project. Loyale stock engine is ea82. You need an adapter plate, and wiring harness from the newer legacy donor car. Most who have done this swap used a 2.2. Better reliability than 2.5. The EJ22 is already something like a 40% HP increase over an EA82.

Compressor cycling is normal. BUT It should only run in defrost and AC modes. It should not run in any other mode. Having a FSM schematic should help you. I think the switch that actuates the electric part of controlling the compressor is a micro switch that is mounted on the heater box. It gets activated by linkage moved by the vacuum motors when AC OR defrost is selected.

I'm not the GL 10 turbo expert, but I am not aware of anything in the gauge / cluster that could kill the engine. Lots of other sensor / electrical things could. They all just need to be gone through to rule out.

If the idle air valve is stuck / dead it will just seem like the engine shuts off if you let the gas pedal go, as in try to let it idle. If you hold the pedal down a bit, it will keep running if it's only the idle air valve. I had one fail on the way home once. I just had to keep a little pressure on the gas pedal so it wouldn't die off. If it's that, it could also be a bad connection or wire to the valve.

Fuel filter. Also, possible partially blocked exhaust. Test by loosening the 4 exhaust manifold nuts, to get a 1/2" gap. It will be loud, but it will run. If the exhaust is ok, it will have no other effect, except possibly the CEL. If it runs great under load with the exhaust off, then probably one of the cats is clogged.

The transfer solenoid is on the extension section. Same side as the governor.but way further back, and lower. 2 wires. Check for 12V on it when in 4WD. Check that current flows. I just measured one, it is 4 Ohms.

I'll have to check my FSM when I get back. The switch just applies 12v to it.

No clunk is normal. The switch activates a solenoid on the side of the transmission. It opens a valve that allows oil pressure into a clutch pack that engauges the rear output shaft.

That is just a thermo switch for the fan. The ECU uses a sensor, CTS mounted on the housing just below the thermostat on the intake manifold. It has 2 wires. The single wire one is only for the temp gauge. If the CTS is flaky, the idle speed.is usually messed up, as in high idle when up to temp, or no high idle when cold.

3 speed automatic?

Find the leak /s Watch the coolant level like a hawk. As in before every drive. Both level in overflow and check for air in the upper hose.

My experience with rust vs corrosion : only this year did I sand and repaint the beads on my 23+ year old steelies. Our recently aquired 09 Forester had 2 leaking down faster than the worst 23yr old, and the other 2 double that. Maybe it was just the shop that put the tires on before we bought it didn't clean them right?

+1 what grossgary wrote.

I just had to spend 100 getting the beads resealed on a set of alloys. Considering what's mentioned above, more trouble than they are worth.

The only thing in a standard driveline that can slip is the clutch. The gearbox is either in or out.

Ok, yes, that is something else. The engine should start and run even if you remove the alternator.

More details of your trouble specifically would be good for more accurate answers. But a general rule from my experience: Over normal temperature while low on coolant = head gaskets fail. Depending on how hot & how long, how fast.

I guess it would depend on how hot it got, how long. I've done the reseal only job a few times. One I should have gone further possibly. It was a long time ago, the car my wife usually drove. IT ran great after, the connecting rod bearings were a little worn, but not bad or damaged, still in spec. But I didn't hone the cylinders when I put the pistons back in. It burned oil like mad. like a quart per tank of gas mad. IT was however, run over temp an unknown number of times, and I discovered the problem when I took it for a drive and it went over normal - while 1 gallon low on coolant. IT also was run by me for a number of 30 minute trips on the highway with 50/50 mix of water and synthetic oil in the crankcase before the reseal. So I don't know for sure what caused the oil burning - the overheating, the removing the pistons, thus moving the rings from their set positions, or the water mixed with oil on the highway running. I ran the engine like that for years, running all my waste oil mixed with the cheapest new oil I could find, and only gave up on it when one of the heads cracked.

I haven't done the swap, but I read the big thread that has all the details on here a while back. It's on my some day project list.

A few solid concrete blocks can be handy also. 4x8x16.

There are 2 thin wires in a plug on a stock alternator. There is a convertion on for the swap also. They need to be there.