DaveT

When I was recently doing a bunch of testing, I saw that the O2 sensor signal started doing its cycling soon after the idle dropped to normal speed. I could use a prom burner to read the code from an ecu memory chip. But would anyone be able to decipher it?

I'm thinking someone added that capacitor, I've not seen one in that location on these cars.

I live in ct, lots of corrosives used here. I've lost many cars due to body rotting out. Only trying to help, need info, have to ask questions. I'm not there and can't hear the noise.

I don't specifically know - see if anyone does - but here's what I'd probably do. If the car cannot be down for a while, get a used driveshaft. If it's good, put it in. Rebuild whichever one is worse.

I have an 87 gl same color.

That's pretty weird. We're going to need Model and year, etc.. I can only guess, there are relays involved with some of this on the newer cars. Relays can stick and can fail in either state.

I'd get a generic carb fuel pump, drop a hose into a gas can. Yet away on the engine and carb. Yes, it tried to run on the carb cleaner. That stuff is great for checking for lack of fuel and helping clearing flooding. The old gas could be making the old pump stuck. It might be saved by removing and filling with cleaner, and or disassembly depending on how it's built.

What kind of noise? Clicking is usually cvj. I've been driving and maintaining gl and Loyale wagons since 1988 and not once had a bad wheel bearing.

The single most important thing to monitor is coolant level. At least once a week, until / unless you notice coolant loss. Then it is wise to check every day until the leak is found and fixed.

If no click when you turn the key to the cranking position, it's more likely a connection in the feed to the ignition switch, or the wire from there to the starter, which goes through a lockout on a standard trans, or the park / neutral switch on an automatic. There are a few connector in that line, and any one or more can develop high resistance intermittently.

There are a lot of threads about headgaskets, how to check, etc. Don't let it overheat. Even if it runs over normal, while low on coolant, the headgaskets are compromised. The good news is that if it hasn't been badly overheated, replace them and it's a great engine.

Oh yeah, don't even think of using an extractor... Unless you want a piece of hardened steel broken off in the rusted bolt. +1 what grossgary wrote.

Or get a used knuckle that's not as bad... Not sure how difficult this might be though.

Careful monitoring of the coolant level - in the radiator and the recovery tank will tell if you have headgasket trouble. Don't replace them until you start sing signs of failure, it is rare that it's catistrophic IF you monitor the coolant levels. Initially, with a new to me car, that means every first drive of the day. Watch for leaks, no matter how small. Check the level in the recovery tank, and sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose and listen for the jiggle pin and gurgling of air. Waiting for low coolant level to have the temperature gauge read over normal temperature (note: does not have to get to red, just over where it normaly reads) is how to cause the headgaskets to fail.

When you turn the key, does it click but no cranking?

Do that stuff first. Is it a click and no cranking problem?

On Interference engines, I take no chances. Oem belt and all idlers and tensioner.

Ok, sounds like same as GL. Buttons that use a combo of switches and vacuum for the modes, lever and cable for temperature of heat. The ac in ac mode is full on, but when you put the temp in between cold and hot, the heater re warms the air, making it less cold.

If they did not replace all of the idlers and tensioner, along with the belt, with oem parts, that's asking for trouble. Those little isolated bearings are good for a bit over 100k miles, but they are not likely to make 200k. On an interference engine, I don't take chances.

What does it use to adjust the heat temp? I've only had GLs and Loyales - I've seen a DL or 2, but not recently enough.

Cat or even a small leak in the exhaust between the 2 O2 sensors.

If you were to drain and fill the pan, then use that pump, it should significantly reduce the old oil left in. Since the old stuff would only be what's in the valve body, channels, clutches, etc. The new oil in the pan would be pushing all the old stuff out, which will drop into the pan still. But that's a lot less than what's in the converter. It will still take a good amount extra to fully change the converter, since there is a lot of mixing circulation going on in there.

Blend door is a cable from the lever. I don't think it's different on turbo vs non turbo. There isn't anything that should make heat on one side and not the other, that's odd.

Factory service manuals usually have great diagrams of the hydraulic system in the transmission, and descriptions of how things work.

Not sure what the flow rate is or the bearings and what gets around the seals, but it is not trivial. The shaft seals that make the passages through the various shafts to get pressure to the clutch packs are similar to piston rings. I know of no reason they would not just let the valves that control the clutches and all just dump back to the pan via the shortest rout when they release pressure.