DaveT

Set aside the payments for collision on an older car, then you have $ to repair if it's your fault. The cost of having 2 old cars registered and insured is close to having one with collision added. My 2 25+ year old wagons, no collision. Our 09 Forester, has it.

Those 2 tubes are for the automatic transmission cooler. I'd just put rubber caps on them. I've seen them in hardware stores.

Welcome, Tally! You would get more info by posting this in the newer generation forum. Most of us here are working on older Subarus.

I'd look, but I am not home right now

If the starter cranks the engine at normal sppeed, the problem is not the battery.

Ah, ok. The harness wires often don't match the end device. The factory service manual may show them for both sides of the conector.

An 89 should have been SPFI. There may be diffences between a SPFI and a turbo distributor, aside from the wiring. But I'm not a turbo expert. These things are electronic, and may not survive incorrect connection.

I don't know if your car will work the same as mine - older loyales. I found that if I want to "downshift" the automatic earlier, I can move the lever down a gear. Then blip the throttle, the engine spins up, and it engauges. Don't try it the first time in extremes. See how it deals with a closer to normal shift first.

You have discovered the fuel safety shutoff circuitry. If the engine stops running, the fuel pump is shut down. Think of a rollover or other accident the ruptures the fuel line.

Could be wheel bearing or cv joint.

Leave them unplugged for normal operation.

Fel Pro or oem for headgaskets. Oem only for intake gaskets. I've only used Fel Pro kits. The oem intake gaskets are a must.

Typical oil leak points: Cam cover seals Cam shaft seals O ring for the small piece the cam seal presses into. There is an o ring for the oil channel to the camshaft & lash adjusters between the head and the cam carrier. Oil pump seals and orings front main sometimes, not as common as the above.

I never went to the trouble to analyze the failure mode. Posably wire gauge too small. Connection to the lead wires not rugged enough.

I'd run it until the oil leaks get bad enough to annoy me, or they begin to fail. There are a lot of threads on here with advice on what to watch for to know when it's time. And how to deal with the bolts, which are most likely pretty sticky.

Oh, the dye I used is made visible with long wave UV light.

All of my GL / Loyale wagons run / ran the AC for defrost. From 86-93. Just unplug the connector to the compressor to disable it until you get to fixing it.

Happy Thanksgiving!

If it changed after the work, IT's almost got to be something overlooked, like timing off, hose miss connected.

Purge solenoid code / EGR code - 345 & 34 - The ECU cannot tell anything other than open or shorted circuit to the coil. I've had them fail, never noticed them effect driveability. Nearly all of the OEM ones fail. My solution is on my website below: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

I'm looking for a good tender also. My big problem is finding one with low standby power. It's ridiculous for the one I tried (so far) to draw 5 watts even when the battery is fully charged. In cars, there are small draws - clock, radio - that will bring down a battery faster than if it were just sitting there. I already know that if an ocasionall charge top off depends on my remembering to take action, it will be forgotten.

Most of mine came from local dealers in ct. Most have the factory A/C. Get the a/c dye, to find the leak, or look for refrigeration oil on all of the parts. Check orings at the connections in the system.

They are there to prevent icing. When air is pulled through a restriction, to a lower pressure, it expands, and cools. Under certain conditions, moisture in the air will condense and freeze. Possibly also to help reduce stress due to expansion- cool intake on a hot block would be a lot of stress compared to everything at room temperature.

That is typical early signs of headgasket tiny leak. You may back able to drive it for 6 days, or 6 months before it gets worse. Watch the coolant level and air in the upper hose like a hawk. Before every drive. It may even vary a bit before it goes bad quickly. Every over normal temperature event accelerates the failure.

+1 what robm wrote. Got to fix what is obviously wrong first. Pads to metal, drastically uneven wear, stuck slides, etc.