DaveT

they have "default" settings so you are not stranded by a sensor failure. That may be coming into play.

Subaru engines are made to spin fast, not lug. I am most familiar with the older ones, but 3-4000 rpm is not stress.

That daytime light stuff started before 09. Are the bulbs in the HID failing? They have only so many hours that they can last.

Yeah, that could do it. I guess it's a good idea to check by turning the crankshaft with a wrench when something like this happens. I have not had or seen this happen, so didn't even think of it based on the description of what was happening.

Wow, that's an unusual one! Any idea how it got that way?

I've been using Hammerite Waxoyl for many years. Stops and prevents rust. Great for areas that don't show. Soaks into places you can't get to. On my Loyale wagons, I noticed how the mud flaps and part of the fenders trap dirt and crud. So I modified them to block the path stuff was getting in, and made sure there is a way for it to drain out. On the newer models, watch out for plastic pieces that cover and "protect" areas near the bottom / wheel wells. They hide the rust until its too late.

Up higher in this thread, there is a real electric one mentioned. If you are talking about a 4-5 HP motor with a proper compressor for an engine about the size of 1.8L then it's a real thing. An electric motor of that HP takes about 4-5 kilowatts. 4KW at 12 volts means you need 333 amps. Of course, this scales up and down with engine displacement.

Up higher in this thread, there is a real electric one mentioned. If you are talking about a 4-5 HP motor with a proper compressor for an engine about the size of 1.8L then it's a real thing. An electric motor of that HP takes about 4-5 kilowatts. 4KW at 12 volts means you need 333 amps. Of course, this scales up and down with engine displacement.

I don't recognize the silver box. I've completely disassembled a few ea82 wagons, and I've never seen that. The only relay I've seen on the drivers side near the brake booster is the ones I have installed to fix the click no crank due to high resistance in the starter trigger circuit.

Yes the ac is run for defrost. Dries the air, makes it quicker. Also helps keep the ac alive until summer. But you can live without it. I'd be shocked if you could notice a difference with a 2.5 engine. Maybe you can feel it when the ac is actually running, but when it's off, it's just the losses of the belt bending and the bearing.

Normal expected battery life is 5 years under ideal conditions. Actually putting one into a car that is used normally is not ideal conditions.

My 87 gl has all original brake lines. They can last a long time.

ForGet about easy out type extractors. If the bolts are that rusty, they won't work.

I've got a wagon rear seat that's going away. Downside is it will take some cleaning. The car was home to some mice for a while. Idk if the wagon seat is the same as the hatch.

I might have an old one with a usable boot hanging around. It's tricky getting the boot off and back on without poking it with the wire that holds it in place...

Oh, yes, if a block heater is a good idea, so is a battery warmer.

I've never had the egr code cause any noticeable effects on drivability.

If you can find an OEM one at a junkyard, reboot it. It will be better than any of the aftermarket ones, from what I've seen on here.

Code 34 - most likely the solenoid coil is open. OEM ones all fail. My fix is linked below - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

You have the wrong axle. The roll pin cannot shear with the proper one, as the splines take the rotational load. There is no way a roll pin can handle that amount of torque. Count the splines on the transmission stub, and the axle end. They won't match in your situation. This has been seen on the board a number of times. There is a combination of axle and transmission that will appear to go together ok, until you load the axle by driving the car.

Batteries - Measure the area it goes in, and find the largest case that will fit. Get a decent quality brand. Assume 5 year maximum life. A battery at 0 degrees as about 1/4 of what it is at 70 degrees. I don't know the new models specifically. I run 100% synthetic lubes in all the appropriate places - Engine, transmission, differentials. It makes a noticeable difference in how things move until the drive line warms up. Follow the manual for weights.

2 were gapped in spec, 2 were a bit out wide, so I fixed them. They are new from the reseal, not worn.

I replaced the headgaskets 2 years ago, just before the emissions test I had to do to register it. Fel pro gaskets, except OEM intake gaskets. It uses minimal oil. No coolant issues. Not been over normal temp ever since then. Yeah, it's getting down to can't find anything else wrong. I put the exhaust - cats and O2 - that it passed with 2 years ago back on for the retest. I wanted to do everything I could to hopefully get it passed without having to go back again. You can't get a waiver if you do your own repairs, so I'd be stuck paying for everything. I'm going to put the plugs back in, and run it in the dark to check for arcs. I retested a couple of the cylinders twice in the original compression test, and got essentially identical readings. Update - no arcs on wires or plugs. Tomorrow, I'll put my o scope on the O2 sensor.

Compression test: 1 - 165 2 - 180 3 - 160 4 - 160

Ok, I can hook up an oscope. MAF unplugged and boot off ran about the same. Leakdown test: Cyl. - Leakage 1 25% 2 12% 3 27% 4 12% Note - I have no idea what to expect, but it seems odd that one side is so different from the other.