DaveT

Sounds like the common high resistance somewhere in the wiring harness problem. Hard to trace / find. It's in the circuit from the start position of the ignition switch, transmission lockouts, a few connectors, and the wire to the starter. I just did the relay mod. There are a few threads on that. To test for this - just get a piece of wire, attach to the start terminal on the back of the starter, touch the other end to the + battery. If it cranks, it's the high resistance problem.

Go easy on them, if they are really stuck rock them back and forth gradually unscrewing. If it's a bolt head, heating it that hot softens the bolt. You want the heat in the aluminum so it expands more than the steel bolt.

Do DLS have the same automatic adjusters that GLS do? Gl adjusters work by hard braking in reverse.

I would take it for a good drive to get everything up to temperature. Then go right at the bolts, no torch. Based on thinking these bolts are screwed into a big hunk of aluminum. This trick has saved me from stripping many very stuck bolts on engines. Avoids risk of overheating anything with a torch also...

The second link looks like the seals you need. I have not heard any reason not to use beck arnley.

The seals are one of the main causes of lifter tick of death. The 2 o rings Can also contribute. They are the same on both sides. They should have a metal reinforced ring around them. Oil pumps are *very* rare to fail. The seals I've used came with Fel Pro lower add on kit that goes along with thier head set, for when you do a full rebuild. But only use oem intake gaskets.

I've rebuilt / resealed more oil pumps than I've replaced. It's the seals getting hard that cause the air to get in.

Trying to think of how a valve and or seat gets chewed up without there being scratches in the cylinder walls, and dents or marks on top of the piston. With they dry climate, I guess there is less worry as far as rings being rusted stuck and all. If you use the full editor for the posting, one of the icons is to attach an image.

Those drain holes are way up on the front and rear sides of the heads. The funny looking ones near the exhaust ports are just weird casting artifacts as far as I know.

Sitting in an environment where there is no humidity or temperature control can cause rust to happen. What does the cylinder wall look like? Top of the piston?

Here is a video. Warmed up. Green test connectors connected. The timing was off a couple degrees. Adjusted before making the video. Vacuum, RPM and fuel pressure gauges. Also, a couple of views to try to capture smoothness / or lack of same.

You can test for the blocked cat by carefully loosening the nuts that hold the y pipe to the engine. Get about a 1/2" gap in there, and run it. It will be loud. If it runs normally, the exhaust is blocked. If it runs pretty much the same, the problem is something else. Or maybe a combo, but don't put a new cat on until you know the rest is right.

+1 carfreak85

I'd be worried about the one that stalled from overheating. That's far worse than I've ever taken one. Full rebuild and inspection for cracks, resurfacing the block side too. Just get one that hasn't been abused and reseal it.

I had 0420 with our 01 Forester. A small exhaust leak anywhere between the two o2 sensors can cause that code.

That all sounds good. My guess is that either the shock of cold would be bad for the heater, and or it getting coated it partially burned cleaner.

There is a bunch of information in those printouts, but not know what they are really measuring makes it hard to know what it can mean.

I am not sure at what rpm and load the secondary should begin to open and deliver fuel, but at low rpm and load, it should not be doing either.

The coolant temperature sensor can screw up drivability and not cause a code. Carb MAF cleaner yeah, things run good on those, could be a sign it's short on fuel in the mix. I just bought a can of MAF cleaner - the parts store guy said to make sure everything was powered down when using it, not to do it while running. I'd like confirmation that this is accurate.

Update so far. EGR seat looked good. Moved normally. I'll have to try that method of watching the injector. Tonight, I powered the fuel pump with cord I made from a spare wiring harness. Fired the injector via an engine harness and test leads. Didn't go crazy continuous, as I didn't want to fill up the intake with gas.... Talk about flooding. Seemed to spray and stop nice. With the boot off and MAF unhooked, it will just re start? I'm assuming I should do this with it warmed up.

For the rust, in places where you cannot get at all the faces / surfaces. Hammerite Waxoyl is what I use. Knock off loose rust, get the dust out, and soak everything with it. It will wick into places you can't see or get a brush or spray onto. The fancier kit comes with a spray tube you can use to apply it inside of rocker panels, etc. Thus stuff is the most effective way to stop rust that I have found.

Another way to locate sounds is to use a piece of tubing, like 3/8 or 1/2" . Sometime the tubing or the screwdriver method work better on different noises / causes. Get new bearing, and replace, or get an alternator. You probably have a few days, maybe more, but why wait until you are stranded?

Ah, that sounds familiar also. I made plates to match the flanges on the old asv pipes and bolted them on.

The only thing I don't remember is if the egr is different. Pretty easy to check, on the SPFI it's on the side away from the starter. A small stainless steel 90 degree tube with nuts like brake line fittings. Loosen those hot also. Best with a flare nut wrench.

Oh, yes. You need the SPFI disty. That slipped my mind because when I did it, I resealed the 86 engine, and put the cam carrier with the SPFI disty on as one piece. We are talking about using the 86 block in an existing SPFI body, right?