DaveT

That should be ok. All the roll pin does I'd keep the thing from sliding off the splines.

How much longer will if be up? What's the url? If there is stuff I could use, I'd be inclined to download it.

Hmmm.... I wonder. The temps vary pretty quickly with engine rpm and load. I'll have to check the temps with the new one. Also put the probes on my othe car in the meantime, see what it's doing. Yeah, that idle test is new.

Oh, the temperatures were read while driving with moderate load. Thermocouple probes clamped to the pipes. I've used this setup before, so I have an idea of what to expect. This system has passed more than one test since I built them in 2010. I made 2, one on each of my wagons. Oooh, no fluid consumption with the current engine, but this system was on another car for a good while with the engine that burned a quart of oil every tank of gas. It passed emissions twice! Then one of the heads began cracking, leaking coolant into the exhaust port on one side. I continued running it while rebuilding an engine, and it got to the point where water would drip through at a rate that I had to add a regular size bottle of bottled water before every drive. It was summer, so I didn't bother with antifreeze. I also ran it with a zero pressure cap to keep the leaking down. But wait.... it passed when I put it on this car 2 years ago... or did I run it through emissions with it's original exhaust? Damn, can't remember. I probably put it on this car when I had to swap the transmission. hmmm. I guess all that doesn't matter, as it's dead for sure now. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

With those "regular " compression test numbers, I think there is a problem. What, you don't know until it's apart. Try for a swap / refund.

Exhaust gas temperature near o2 sensor, 500 to 600 degrees F. After the catalytic, around 300. Not a good sign for the cat. It's dead. It should be a hundred or two higher. Why it's dead? That's the other stuff to check, as mentioned above. I had a bad o2 sensor kill one many years ago. The good thing about my custom exhaust is the cat is an $80 part from a tuner car shop, it replaces the 2 very expensive oem ones that are part of the pipes.

If you replace the timing belt, replace all of the idlers and tensioner. When one of those fails, the new belt won't help. Oem only for those parts if long term reliability is a concern.

When it's running, poke around at wiring harness on the engine. Obviously avoid moving bits and spark plug wires. There are a couple of engine ground wires worth checking also. One near the thermostat, on on a tab on the coolant pipe that goes into the water pump. And the one from battery neg to the body. Intermittent electric problems are a pain.

I am not inclined to cheat it, I'd rather fix it. I'll have exhaust temps when I get home tonight, and I'll start checking for leaks etc. I have 60 days to get the free retest, so not a panic situation. The idle didn't seem odd on the drive to work today, but Ill have to put my real tach on it also, as I know the dash one may not be accurate at the bottom of it's scale.

Yeah, a T with a small valve on the open port, so you can hold enough pressure to keep it running.

Would a wideband O2 sensor give me a reading I could use even if only in a relative way to tell when I've got things working right? I could install one along side the stock one. Not actually use it for engin control for the testing. also use my 2nd car as a reference to get good numbers.

I'll add that using the temperature gauge as an indication that the coolant system needs attention is how to guarantee that you will be doing a headgasket job. If the temperature guage goes above normal, (not even into red) while the system is low on coolant, the headgaskets get damaged. Routinely checking the coolant levels and condition of all of the several hoses and the radiator is what needs to be done. Check for air bubbles in the upper radiator hose by sharply squeezing it and listen for gurgles and the giggle pin. Check the level in the recovery tank. Monitor changes closely. Don't routinely open the radiator cap, as you let more air in. If you begin to see a trend of coolant dissappearing, start looking for a sneaky leak.

Mine is SPFI. I think it has maybe one more time before no more testing. My 87 had its last time already.

Yes, but I don't remember running into this one before. IT should have been up to temp. 30 minute drive, but then had to make a couple quick stops before going to the emission place. rich and high idle... I should check the CTS.... Would a miss not be felt in rough running / idling? I know the O2 sensor can be off spec and not cause a code, so probably wouldn't hurt to replace the old one. Haven't replaced one of those due to known failure in quite a while. Vacuum leak, ok, I know how to check for that.

My 1993 Loyale w/3AT 4WD. California version Resealed engine installed, by me. Custom stainless exhaust, by me. Running a 180 degree Stant thermostat, the good ones. . It's been running normally. Not burning oil at a crazy rate. Heck, I had an engine that burned a quart per fill up, and it would pass. More than once! Any ideas on what is a typical cause / first things to look at for high hydrocarbons emissions? Has anyone heard of any method of testing for HC? My biggest annoyance of the whole emissions thing is that I have to troubleshoot blind. I'm going to attach my temp probes to check the catalytic converter tomorrow while driving. Test from 2 years ago - PASS: Hydrocarbons = 20ppm Limit 167 ppm CO = .16% Limit .89% HP = 12.1 RPM = 1985 Temp = 167 F Test from today - FAIL: Cruise Hydrocarbons = 102ppm Limit = 220ppm CO = .78% Limit = 1.2% RPM = 2441 Idle Hydrocarbons = 577ppm Limit = 220ppm CO = .54% Limit = 1.2% RPM = 923 Of course, just to "help", they changed the test form. grrr. But the main data seems similar.

Not as familiar with theseverely newer models - is there a test mode that guns the pump like the old gen cars? Or find the power lines to the pump and unplug, then apply 12v. But check the schematics for specifics first.

Loose axle nut maybe could do that, so worth a check.

Probably the easiest thing to do is unhook the fuel line at the filter, run the pump . Be aware that the fuel will come out quick.

What ANIM wrote sounds good.

+1 don't use aftermarket axles. If the original is clicking, get a new used one from a scrapyard, and re boot it. If you look closely at the original, you can learn to identify originals vs aftermarket.

A few things cross my mind: Isn't it possible that they guy the got that engine from mislead them about the mileage? I know that oil is for the lubrication, but I also have some recollection of it aiding sealing/seating the rings, thus helping with compression - so is it possible that for whatever reason [storage position not level?] that 1 cylinder has less oil? It probably would take a fair amount of cranking to be sure oil is distributed everywhere. Unless it's only been a short time since it was run? Popping the caps out, yeah, not impressed. Ok, it's more or less functioning, but far from any kind of accurate evaluation. I never did a low speed compression test by hand, so I can't say what's normal for that. I'd think the mileage discrepancy would / should qualify you for a 2nd try or reduced price. The legality of the recording may vary by state, so check locally.

You will need a new heavier output wire, the stock one is too thin, and the fusible link will blow out. Those pictures look like some sort of aftermarket high output add on. To even try to figure out the control wiring, I'd need the Spec sheets with schematics and or schematics of the original vehicle it came stock in.

What I do is find a car with a rust free / low rust body. Add some Waxoyl . repair anything else. High milage generally doesn't matter. I found a local dealer guy that buys high milage subarus fron the auctions and dies the typical stuff like headgaskets, and other mechanical wear issues. For newer models, like in the 2000s.

The water pump circulates the coolant through the engine, and though the radiator when the thermostat opens. It does nothing to draw water from the tank. The coolantern is drawn into the radiator from the tank during the cooldown from normal operating temperature to ambient temperature, if the system has no leaks.

Well yeah, it's worth checking anything you can see without removing it. But we know that some wiring has been mucked with underived the dash. I have had a few wagons that got very rusty before I retired them due to the rust. Never had one gas gauge fail.