DaveT

There should be a 10 or 8 AWG wire from battery - directly to the body. Use an existing hole in the sheet metal within the reach of about 10" of wire. Scrape the paint off, and apply some wheel bearing grease to keep the joint from corroding.

Oem and higher quality aftermarket thermostats have the jiggle pin. It makes a faint sound when you sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose when the system is full of coolant.

missing lock washers might explain them falling out...

The fuel pump relay coil and one contact terminal gets +12V via a Black / White wire, from a 15A fuse that is switched by the ignition switch. The other end of the coil is run via Blue / Black to the ECU. The contact terminal that goes to the pump is a blue / white wire. The Black/White wire should have +12 with the key in run position. The Blue Black should be close to GND, but won't stay there after about 3 seconds of non running engine. The Blue White should be opposite of the Blue Black. What matches / doesn't match with what you are seeing?

A good bi-metal hacksaw blade should cut those bolts. Like a Lennox or Starrett. I get them from MSC and/or McMaster Carr. Cheap hardware store ones might not. Other temp fix idea - if you have some lockwashers, [or flat washers, if they would fit] stack them under the head. The bolts are supposed to have 1 split lock washer on each.

The parking brake would definitely lock the caliper to the disk, as that's how it works. Long bolts could go through and hit the rotor.

The caliper won't move on the disc? That's a problem. Try removing the 1 smaller bolt that lets it pivot out for pad replacement without having to unmount the frame by removing the 2 bolts that are out now....

That's odd. The caliper should move around on the disc enough to get one to line up, then get the second. Maybe at ran in a weird position for a while with 1 bolt?

While trying to find the cause, check that coolant level and fill before each drive. Level in overflow, and check the radiator by sharply squeezing the upper hose. Listen for the giggle pin and gurgles. More air each time, bad, find the leak. Less air, ok, good. Run over normal temperature while low on coolant has always lead to needing headgaskets in my experience.

While trying to find the cause, check that coolant level and fill before each drive. Level in overflow, and check the radiator by sharply squeezing the upper hose. Listen for the giggle pin and gurgles. More air each time, bad, find the leak. Less air, ok, good. Run over normal temperature while low on coolant has always lead to needing headgaskets in my experience.

Need to test fuel pressure in the supply line. Without the clamp on the return line. Low points to regulator, even though its new. High with the clamp points to injector. I doubt it is normal.

That's where a fsm for your year can really help. Mostly, the wiring didn't change a lot, but some things did.

I can use the example of my 86 wagon. It came with manual mirrors. I discovered that the harness was there for the Power mirrors. A trip to a scrapyard and I had power mirrors by plugging in the 2 mirrors and the switch in the dash.

Maybe the bolts that hold the caliper on came out or broke?

Could be the pressure regulator is stuck open. Fuel pressure is supposed to be 21PSI. A gauge would help. Not a whole lot in the FSM to help troubleshoot, which surprises me, as they usually have a lot of info. I think the regulator is the shiny thing the return line is connected to. I'd swap a spare one in place to test.

Ah, I never had an ea81. That's why I don't know.

You need the entire rear suspension and trailing arms. You need to fab a center bearing mount for the driveshaft, if it is the same as a wagon. You need the whole front wiring harness, probably the dash harness also. Might as well take the instrument cluster also. The turbo radiators were 2 rows of tubes, rated for higher heat transfer. I'd get the whole car.

Hi! Look though the older generation threads. Unless you know things were well taken care of - Typical things to consider. Radiator condition - fine fins still attached to the tubes. No leaks / cracks. Cooling system should be watched closely, at least until you are certain all is sound. All 7 coolant hoses should be replaced if they are unknown / or original. Coolant should have very little to no air [sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose, listen for the jiggle pin, and gurgles] Recovery tank should be at the full mark, and not change day to day - check cold. One of the alternator brushes typically wears out at about 150K miles. Timing belts and idlers - replace around 50K miles. Check the CVJ boots for split open, better to catch them before they are ruined, as the aftermarket ones are not so good. Check all the other typical wear things, like brakes, etc.

Ok, good.

Replace it. Don't risk blowing headgaskets or worse.

90 loyale is SPFI. 86 GL is most likely carburetor. Different fuel pump. So check.

Not sure if there's might be something confused here? The tensioner sheaves are sheet metal, pull off fairly easy. Removing the riser from the flat bracket, drill the sage off. The originals the riser and the center race are 1 piece, which is why I turned my own on a lathe. The gear idler, just use the gear puller / splitter as needed.. I use an old bearing with the outer race ground down a few thou as a tool to get the new one pressed into the proper depth. Note all EA82 stuff. But the newer ones look like they should be handled similarly.

I just use a bearing splitter with a moderately large gear puller.

Cap / clamp them off. I'd avoid hitting them. Make sure there isn't any fuel wetting the area. Otherwise, shouldn't be a problem. If one happened to be very close to a heat source, a piece of aluminum would work as a heat shield. The link below shows my fuel pump repair tricks. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/fuelpump.html

Some of the idlers are rebuildable as they are. Just press off the old bearings and support bosses, and install new. For ones like the EA82 tensioners, I drilled out the swaged side of the riser. Turned a new riser on a lathe. There needs to be a shoulder so the new bearing presses on and sits .530" from the surface of the flat bracket part. Drill through the center while still chucked, tap the front end for a socket head cap screw to hold the bearing on. Turn the opposite end down to fit the hole in the flat bracket part, swage the riser onto the flat bracket. I'll try to get a webpage up in the next few days with a picture or 2. Before I made these, I tried re greasing a bearing or 2. OK for a short term fix, but I wouldn't trust them, especially on a 100K mile service interval. Back when I made them, there were no aftermarket idlers, Subaru wanted $90 each, and bearings were about $9.00. And I found they needed replacement around 50K miles, not the 60K interval in the fsm.