DaveT

If they snapped off from being stuck from rust, do not even bother with an easy out. I'm not sure if I would try the weld a washer to the broken bolt trick for this, as they are so small, and upside down. It is amazingly effective on 8mm and up though. Drill them out is what I'd figure. The rusted screw / clamp thing, just grind off the head and the nut, replace with new.

Technical service bulletin. It's a Subaru to dealer shop thing.

Anywhere I can read that tsb?

A few things - Has it always been this way? Did it recently begin? Check all the typical tune up stuff. Correct NGK regular spark plugs? Or 1 step cooler. NOT platinums or any other "high tech" ones. Correct operating temp / thermostat? PCV valve working correctly? Vacuum leaks making it run lean? As far as no codes goes - I had an O2 sensor fail years ago, in a way that burned out the catalytic converter - without generating a code. Also, a Coolant Temperature Sensor went bonkers, but never out of normal range, so never threw a code. Neither caused pinging I just mention these to demonstrate that no codes doesn't mean that everything is correct.

Worth a shot. I had trouble with pinging the whole time they were using MTBE in the fuel around here. When it was changed to ethanol, most of the pinging stopped. Only get it occasionally now. I run 87 now. I also ran some stale gas for a while, it didn't ping. I'm guessing, something may be a bit out of spec.

Do yourself a favor and get a factory service manual, or find online scans of one. The fuel pump will only be powered for about 3 seconds if the engine is not running, so it would be easier to out the meter or test light where you can see it from where you can turn the key. You need a pump that can supply around 25 psi iirc.

Get a scan of the fsm schematics. Troubleshoot the heater fan with that and a voltmeter / test light. I never had a GL10 so no easy guesses for me. Also have not had many heater fan or ac problems, other than the lowest speed failinf, or a freon leak.

I've always gone to Subaru for the timing parts on the interference engines. For a 100k mile parts, it's not worth the risk to "save" $. For my ea82s, I made rebuildable idlers and buy high temp contact seal bearings from industrial bearing supply shops. I've used gates belts until now. Not so sure about that now, going forward.

Ah, hadn't thought of that posabilty and combined circumstances.

In the oem and good quality aftermarket thermostats, there is a small loose pin. When you squeeze the hose, it makes a small sound so you can tell there is fluid in the hose, etc. It's probably a good idea to replace the thermostat since the overheat. Oem or the best Stant brand.

Yes, you will loose acceleration. Speed limits around here are 65. 4000rpm for that speed, 3000rpm for 50 / 55 sounds about right. I've put 1000s of miles on them at 4000rpm.

Oh, if that smaller hose was bad, it would be good to replace all 7 coolant hoses.

oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil is only caused by VERY bad headgasket failure. How to check for the more common failure: Before starting the engine, check coolant level in the overflow. Note level. Sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose. Listen for gurgles and the giggle pin. Note the sound. If it sounds like a LOT of air, add coolant to the radiator. If not, don't open, as you let in air. Do a drive cycle. Before starting, check again, repeat. Over at least a few cycles, the air should reduce, and the level in the overflow will go down to match. If it continues to go down, and the air never goes away, you have to watch it closely, as there is a slow leak, or pinhole head gasket fail. IT may work for a long time that way, or it may progress to where the pinhole pumps so much air in that the overflow gains water, to the point of overflowing. Do not use the temp gauge as a way to troubleshoot the coolant system, it is too late by then.

How does this happen? I've been driving EA82 engines since 1988. Never saw it.

If it really looks like that is where the leak is - Note - the shaft seal on the pump can fail, that's what I have seen most often causing a leak near the pump. Also, the small 90 degree hose on top of the pump. Unhook the - battery wire. Unbolt the AC compressor, and swing it out of the way with the hoses attached. Remove the alternator. Now you can get at the pump and the hose and the tube with the O ring a lot better. If you fix the leak, you can closely monitor the coolant system to see if it is ok.

Yes, the water pump is what the fan is mounted on. Sounds like the intake tube to the pump. It seals with an O ring to the pump housing. Sometimes, the tube rusts, or the pump corrodes and it won't seal well. Have to get it apart, and inspect. That hot, with that much coolant loss, I will be very surprised if your head gaskets are not damaged.

EA82 really don't make a lot of power below 3000rpm. These engines are made to spin fast, not lug.

Did you drain the old fuel? Add new? I'd have to look up the number to be sure, but 20 to 25 psi comes to mind for fuel pressure. If it sat long enough, it could have accumulated some water also.

I did take my carbed 86 block and heads, and bolt on a spfi manifold, and it worked fine. I put the engine into a newer spfi body, so it wasn't a conversion, it was an engine block swap. The spfi manifold was the one in the car that needed the swap. So it would be like what your original post is.

That Romex clamp? That's on the return fuel line. That should not be clamped off. Remove that, t in a fuel pressure gauge on the supply side.

Is it a deeper clunky sound, or a thin ticking sound? TOD? I once ran one with 50 / 50 oil and water in the crankcase. A few times, at 65 on the highway. Before I discovered the water had been dissappearing into the crankcase. .. Ooops! I was running expensive 100% synthetic oil. Had no problems with the bearings after I replaced the headgaskets, which had been blown by the overheat while low on coolant problem that caused the mixing. It did burn oil like crazy however.

I have an 09 Forester. I am looking for add on lights - fog light beam pattern. I bought a pair of lights that looked like they would be good, and fit nicely - they are 1" by 6" so would peek out of the slots in the grill nicely. Problem is, they are a flood style beam, so can't be used for the needed effect. I need to augment the low beams a bit. I'd like to find something that would fit in a similar shape. But have been having a hard time finding finding such a thing. Yes, I have found more ordinary shaped fog lights, but I much prefer the 1x6 shape so I don't have clunky things sticking out in front. With the optics available now, there should be no reason it couldn't be done. H as anyone seen anything like this?

I have used the 2 row turbo radiators in my spfi wagons for years, as they are rated for slightly higher heat transfer than the 1 row oem non turbo radiators. The 2 row are very hard to find now. I have to look into getting one recored.

I haven't had a turbo one. With the cooling system being barely adequate on the non turbo ones, just be extra diligent about everything about the cooling system. Make sure all of the coolant hoses are replaced [7 on a non turbo] Make sure the radiator is in like new condition, not blocked, fine fins all attached to the tubes, water flows through it properly. Fans work, all that.

Those look like the normal cracks. Almost every one I've disassembled and rebuilt has them.