DaveT

If it's like my 86 wagon, there are 2 pairs of single connectors under the dash. You unook one, connect the other. It's just a switch on the odometer to remind you to check / clean the egr valve.

Never heard of an oil charge canister. No, test the CTS with an ohmeter and thermometer. The FSM shows a handfull of temperatures and resistance readings.

CTS could do that. Easy to test at least.

If it were mine..... I'd probably drain the fluid, see what it looks like. Drop the pan, look for metal. Put in new correct fluid. If it has a filter, replace it. See how it drives.

Around here, that is a very rare thing. A couple of years ago, I paid 3k for a 93 and had it shipped across the country. When I posted that I was looking for a rust free 4wd wagon, only 1 or 2 were mentioned. More recently, I've seen a thread or 2 where these models must be a lot more common, since prices under 2k were being discussed. I was it certain of the rust condition of those cars however. I would expect to do some mechanical repairs regardless, on a car this age. For me, I'd rather do that than bodywork, so I'll pay for rust free # 1 priority.

Just so you know, the duplicate of this post has a lot more Q and A on it.

The next time it happens, check for spark, and fuel pressure.

The alternator & voltage regulator don't begin to do anything until the engine is running.

I've seen it overlooked. Seal seeps can lower the level to the point that you start getting gear whine. Ultimately fries the pinion bearings. It's something to check a couple times a year, unless it starts showing up low, then more frequently and or fix the leak. It probably would not explain the rough shifting.

It shouldn't be drilled any deeper than it is originally.

I've had it happen when in mobile, and I don't wait for it to update, and thinking it ignored the "post" button, I hit it a second time. Then a refeesh happens, and oops, double post.

Have you checked the front differential gear oil level?

I use the setup in my avatar on my 87 wagon. It's a full 12 foot rack. For a single sheet of 1/2" or thinner, I put a 2x4x8 down the center on top of the plywood. Strap it across with ratchet straps. This prevents the wind that gets under it at highway speed from snapping it lengthwise. To use the stock racks, the earlier reply sounds like it would work for low speed.

All of the ones I remeber have a "line" worn on them. I don't think I have seen any with less than 100k miles on them however. I just put them back in.

If that breaks on mine... first, I'd take apart the switch to see what happened, if I could fix it. If no, then pull the ignition and door locks off another car.

try aspwholesale.com for alternator parts.

I don't know how the access is on the ej22.... one broke like that on one of my ea82s. I welded a bolt to the piece of plug that was in the head, and unscrewed it.

Sounds like mild tod. It's a sticky valve lash adjuster. Sometimes it can be fixed by replacing the oil pump seal. Sometimes cleaning the lifters. Make sure you run 10w-40 oil.

1 o ring per side. Cam tower to head is anaerobic sealant, not oring. Except the pair I carved that groove out for one, and made oring for it. I never pulled the alignment pins. If you try, getting the block heated up to 190f will make it easier. Sometimes the lash adjusters get stuck in the sleeves.

What model / year / style car? It looks nothing like the ones I am familiar with.

I made a socket like that picture for when I had to do this on one of my older engines. I just used a decent quality socket,and ground it down to fit. I didn't have to weld or braze it to the extension.

If the body is really rust free, I would buy it, if I didn't already have 2 very good ones. I'm in ct, so rust is the main killer. Expect to reseal the engine around 100k to 150k miles. Make sure the radiator and all 7 coolant hoses are in like new condition . The alternator should wear out a brush at around 150k miles. I have driven a few 3ATs past 200k miles. I have had very little trouble with them. I do use synthetic atf in them , but can't prove that it does anything other than make them shift better when cold in the winter. Do check the gear lube level to avoid burning out the front differential pinion bearings. Some 3ATs the pump drive shaft splines strip. Replace the pump drive shaft, good to go.

You also need a vacuum pump to remove air and moisture from the system after you put it back together.

+1. Check for pinches. Also, remove the main alternator output to rule out failed rectifier.

Oh, yeah, they had studs! It's been a long time since I have been into one of those. Yes, that could be a problem. A sheet of thick glass, glue wet sand paper to it, slide the head on it to resurface. You have to get the marks from the old headgasket fire rings out. Search for post apocalyptic head resurfacing. For the gasket chunks, I have always used a shop knife blade carefully to scrape down to metal. The the resurfacing.