DaveT

Yes, that area where gasket is missing is bad. I never had one that blown. Do the Subaru gaskets need to be re tourqued? Fel Pro permatourque don't. Intake gaskets get from Subaru.

Also, clean up the block face. Most of the bad head gaskets I have seen don't show obvious signs of failure location. It only takes a tiny gap where the fire ring stopped sealing to the head or block to let high pressure combustion gasses into the coolant. I know some people replace them in the car, but I have not done that since the first head gasket job I did, on my 1974 wagon.

I ran a bunchuge of old gas in my ea82 wagons for a while. The main thing was filter it, and water separator. If it is really bad and old, mix 5050 with new gas. Simple way to separate the water, let it sit in a gas can for a day or 2. Siphon the gas to another can, but do not put the hose to the bottom.

Ea82 overhead cams? Valve covers on mine are sealed with a fancy rubber custom formed o ring kind of seal. Fel Pro ones that come in head sets. The bolts have shoulders that set the clamping pressure. There are sealing washer to be used under thier heads. Replace when the main seal is replaced. There is always a small gap between the cam tower and the cover. Another posible source of the leaking is the cam seals, or the o ring that seals the camshaft oil seal carriers. Over torqueing the bolts only risks snapping them off, as the shoulder hits the cam tower to stop them at the correct height.

Getting the bolts out - run the car to normal operating temperature. Immediately go to work removing the bolts with care. Some penetrating oil before the run couldn't hurt also.

I use Amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease for pretty much anything I need to grease. I have not seen it do anything bad. I don't recall if I greased a window track system or not. I have some that I should though.

The most common symptoms for blown head gaskets on EA82s is exhaust gas into the coolant. As it gets worse, pushing coolant out of the overflow on the recovery bottle. I did cook one really bad once, and got the coolant in the crankcase. But it ran great while doing that. I guess if it were blown between adjacent cylinders, it would run crummy, but not be unable to run - at least I have not seen one that bad.

I've always used something to pin the flywheel. Big breaker bar on the socket.

Loosen the axle nut with the tire on the ground. Once it turns a turn, Jack up and pull the tire, etc. Factory service manual had pictures making it easier to figure out the angles etc to get the adjusters loosened. Check the oil frequently, until you see how it goes. Might be good to change sooner than normal a time or 2.

Yes, you do want to verify hat you are getting steady bubbles = sure sign of headgasket leak. In the early stages, the bubbles are small and not much coolant gets pushed out. As the leak gets worse, even a short drive ends up pushing enough coolant to overflow the overflow bottle.

Classic failing headgasket description.

Take apart. Clean out old grease, re lube. Check the brushes. Tracks and motor / gearbox.

Oh, also all 4 tires should be the same type, brand, wear.

Things to check: wheel bearing center driveshaft bearing Ujoints

And you have to seal the inside also, no matter which method, or it will rust through again, in a short time.

I don't know the turbo version. But with spfi, here's a few things to look at similar. Idle air control valve. Fuel pressure afters filters. If you spray a carb cleaner into the intake for 2 to 3 seconds, then crank, does it fire and run for a few seconds? A few times I have had one get flooded. They way to clear this is hold gas pedal to the floor and crank. It takes a longish time. So go in bursts. Eventually starts to sputter and run crummy then smooths out. But while flooded, they act dead like no fuel. Again, I don't know how the turbo versions respond to similar situations.

7 on non turbo means normal function / ok

One of my loyales had that setup, with the alternator and ac swapped.

I did the fuel line replacement once. Years ago, before I learned the hard way. It failed in a fairly short time, lost enough coolant to cause a mild overheat. Ended up having to replace headgaskets.

Napa used to sell coolant hose off of reels that works for that. Do not use any hose unless it is specifically rated for coolant system use .

It seems to me that some versions have a tendency to trap air in the waterpump. Water pumps are notoriously bad at pumping air. So when enough air accumulates to stop pumping, you get no heater output, and simultaneously overheat the engine. Air gets in from a leak. It must be hunted and found. Overheats (over normal ) when low on coolant damage the headgaskets, causing exhaust gasses to be pumped into the coolant. Becomes a circular problem, and gets worse.

If you swap out the entire driveline, no worries, it should be as good as whatever it came from, or better if the total weight is less.

I have alternators from 86 to 93. One from a turbo. No difference I've ever noticed, other than one or 2 had a 2 groove pulley. Maybe post a picture?

All 7 coolant hoses. All lubes in the diffs,trans, engine, per steering. Timing belts and idlers!

I went to the Fosgate website, and found a pdf drawing of the speakers. Printed it so that it came out full size by fiddling with the scaling . Cut out the side view to use as a guage.