DaveT

The shafts that come out the side of the transmission ate not pinion shafts. Those are axle stubs. The bearings that support them and the differential are on screw in carriers that are used to adjust the mesh of the pinion and ring gear. The pinion shaft and it's bearings are inside the transmission, and major case disassembley is required to get to them.

Ah, here is what to do - disconnect the OEM thick white wire from the alternator output post. Tape off / insulate the lug, really well. Make a new output wire and fuse, and connect from the new alternator's output post to the + battery post. The circuits normally powered by the white wire and it's link will still get power without further modification, via the link which is still in place.

Correct, carb cleaner into throttle body or one of the ports in the boot. Not into the maf. Note to be clear, the injector test I mention above will likely flood the engine, don't even try to start it while doing the test, and only apply the 12v for a second or so at a time. It's simply meant to verify the injector coil works, and it opens, and fuel is there.

since it runs with fuel dumped into the throttle body, it has to be a fuel supply problem. The injector can be triggered open by unplugging it from the harness and applying 12 v across the 2 pins. You can see the fuel spray down on the throttle plate. Sometimes I've seen these get flooded, and it take a LOT of cranking to get it cleared. AFTER verifying the fuel lines are correct RE: supply & return, try spraying a good second or 2 of carb cleaner into the intake boot. Then crank it. If ti fires then dies, try a few more times, see if it clears. The official clear flooded engine procedure is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank. It still takes a good amount of cranking though.

Just looked at one of mine - the fuel supply line goes to the lower connection on the throttle body.

I have swapped lots of engines around, there is no reason it shouldn't work. Something like the lines, yeah, be looking over stuff like that. 40 psi is too high, it should be somewhere between 20 to 25.

This sounds like why I never liked how our 01 drove in snow. I much prefer my older ones that have part time 4wd.

Ahh, not 20k, 200k.

I've made it to 200k miles with a few 3ATs. Keep the fluids clean, and full. Somewhere near 20k, check the pump input shaft, or any other time you have the engine / transmission separated.

Colchester is near the center of Connecticut.

I got one very similar a while back. Added the 4wd parts. You want to find the 4wd driveline from a 1990 to 94. Swap the transmission, and add the stuff from there back. You need the diff, and the cross member it mounts to, or you have to fab and weld the mounts onto the 2WD one. You have to fab the center driveshaft support bearing mounts also. Add a wire or 2 for the 4wd switch and dash light if you want to make it complete like a stock 4wd, which is what I did.

What I have always done is get a used oem axle at a junk yard, and re boot it. If it is already clicking, probably too late to save it. But I'd you catch a torn boot before it clicks, you can reboot it and be good to go.

I found a local used Subaru specific dealer. I get a higher milage car, but specify body condition must be great. Thy know which models years etc have the various engines to avoide, etc. They go through the driveline, replace headgaskets, timing belts anything telse that's on the edge. End result is a car good for 100k miles with only minor regular service needed. For a better price than I can get the same year and model with low miles. For most subarus, miles don't matter. I go for whatever year etc I can get for around $10k. Taxes and insurance savings and the difference between 10k and a new car price would pay for a lot of repair work.

Everything works fine.... Unless something goes wrong, and the existing wire gets shorted. I almost burned down my first car due to improper fuse placement.

4x8x16 solid concrete block from home depot. They ate very handy for hold big things off the ground. Not expensive. Only use them flat, not on edge or end.

The turbo is supposed to have a 2 row radiator. I have used turbo radiators in my non turbos since 1988 to get a little extra capacity. But the turbo radiators are hard to find now. This reminds me, I have some old radiators I have to get re cored, probably custom..

The biggest thing o know of the turbo, is keeping the cooling system at 100 percent. It's barely adiquate for the nonturbo engines.

I may have done this a long time ago. I had a pair of rims that hit the front calipers. I made a 1/8" thick spacer disc, and they worked. Never noticed a problem. Eventually, I ended up with more gl/ loyale rims, and got rid of the old ones.

The original wire and fusible link are too small. They should not be used. Add a new thicker wire, and proper size fuse.

The safe thing to do is run a new wire of adiquate gauge, with a fuse, to the + battery terminal.

Test the cts. Ohmmeter is all you need. If the sensor reads correctly, check the wiring and connectors. The numbers are in the fsm, and a thread or 2 on this forum.

I would find a new insurance agent / company also.

Half a gallon low on coolant..... Going by my experience, the headgaskets are blown. 1 drive like that is all it takes.

Get a used axle from a scrap yard. Reboot and re grease it. Then swap. Then reboot aND re grease the one you remove. Spare all ready for next time.

The tensile spring isn't meant to set the tension. Tourque on the camshaft pulley is what sets the tension, when the timing belt marks are at the indicator on the flywheel / flex plate. (Not to be confused with the timing marks for degrees). Somewhere around 15 ft lbs iirc.