DaveT

Yeah, start with the one you have, if it's in decent shape. Add a couple of electric fans for when it isn't moving.

I don't know how it can run more than a few minutes at idle with no load air cooled.... Cooling EA82s is the most important thing about keeping them running. The OEM cooling system was just barely adequate, so start there, as anything less is asking for trouble....

Um, yikes! I'd never apply that much force. Unless you are 100% certain that it was all going to be perfectly aligned with the bore, and even then... This is more of a light tapping wiggling gradually situation. I had to carefully work one out of an engine. Don't remember the model, but the ones i have worked on are all pretty similar. It might be more stuck now, if it were pulled that hard. Might have to cut the piece into 2 pieces to get it out if it won't budge. Not fun, but a dremel with a side cutting bit would do it, lots of care and patience, to avoid cutting into the block. If you end up going this route, watch out, the chips are nasty sharp little needles.

+1 el freddo - the crank pulleys are right there, with guides. It isn't going to walk off in the short distance between the oil pump and the crank.

The oil pump pulley looks like possibly pressed metal or something odd. I would not try to weld one. Maybe braze. A sheet metal shop with a LASER cutter could fabricate new guide pieces. They would probably want drawings or model files. The originals were staked on.

Holding it with an old belt and using a right angl impact driver might do it.

Oh, the original question was if the oil pump pulley would swap with a crank pulley. Or that's what I thought I read.... To replace the oil pump pulley, yes, remove the pump so you can hold the rotor to get the nut on and off. I think I remeber trying to hold the pulley with an old timing belt, and getting nowhwere.

You can't swap the pulleys. I can look around to see if I have an extra one.

Exhaust shields rattle. The grease may quiet the bad u joint, but it won't save it, it's dead. Get a new one on the way, but don't panic.

Make sure everything is off. Disconnect the negative battery wire. Connect an amp meter between the negative battery post and the wire. If you suspect a large parasitic draw, use a 12v bulb so you don't fry the meter.

Yes, pull the hose off, see what changes while idling. It should still idle, but not the same.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

Now that you mention it, IIRC, the pipe after the Y I went 2" - because I could buy decent pre made flanges that size. Couldn't find smaller ones, only bigger. And I didn't want to fabricate more than the 4 I did for the heads.

For the solenoids - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Not much difference sound wise. Not leaking like the rusted old ones, so quieter. The ID is a size bigger than the stock pipe. So far, the old mufflers are still holding, but I'll have to decide something on them sooner or later. Don't want noise.

I watched the entire Roadkill series in a few days after I found it. A few of the related ones. It all kind of blurred together. Want another extreme mod video series? Look up project binky.

I don't think that's it's planned, it's just what happens when the output slowly drops due to the worn out brush vs a complete failure.

The metal lines are mostly just holding things in place in stead of using floppy hoses all over. The egr pipe uses the same flare like fitting on both ends. Yeah, on an older model I vaguely remeber a 2 bolt flange on one end. Blocking or deleting the egr doesn't make a big difference in how it runs, at least in my experience. The fsm has good sketches of how all that vacuum stuff connects.

Roadkill!

Your alternator quit around or a little farther than all of my original OEM ones did. Due to one of the brushes wearing down to where it doesn't contact the slip ring any more. I am going by the mileage, and your description of the dash lights faintly glowing at idle.

For a start at least...

Try flipping the belt over, so the other side is toward the engine. If that makes no difference, try a new idler.

Yes, one of the 2 I built is now on its second car. It is also very nice if I have to do anything that can be made easier by removing the exhaust, since o used all stainless hardware, it just un bolts. It is also lighter than a stock system by a lot, so easier to handle. It passed CT emmisions testing, and if the catalytic dies, it's an $80 part.

Woulda pic of a stock ea82 spfi be any help?

An EA82 SPFI has noticeable power over a carburetor EA82. Spec sheet says it's only 84HP @ 5200RPM vs 90HP @ 5600RPM, but it does feel different. I do not miss having to adjust points, and timing at all. If you find one, plan on resealing from the head gaskets up, and all 7 coolant hoses, and timing components. You would also want the harness and ECU to convert a non EA82 car to run an E82. Different fuel pump also.