Durania

Yes, you will need a spring compressor. You can rent one at advance auto or buy one for cheaper. The bolt size is a 19mm as well. Best to have a wrench in that size too. What I have: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Kit-1--Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit-%282--piece%29-Powerbuilt-Tools_9150007-P_N3492_T|GRP2083_____ If you add that to your car, and add something cheap like a battery washer or something just to get it over $50.00 you can use a coupon code from here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com Make sure and do in store pickup. Of course this depends on an advance auto being close to you.

Just tell them you want KYB GR-2's.

I had to have that replaced on my rs. It was causing me about 4 different clutch release points and a squeak that would not go away.

I had a stock Exedy clutch put back in my RS. Worked just fine. The 99 does use a hydraulic operated clutch.

This covers a 99 2.5RS but the procedure is the same. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html

Agreed. Your slave cylinder needs to be replaced. It is not included in a standard clutch replacement job.

First time checking this thread in a while. We welcomed our first born on Wednesday, little boy. Trying to adjust to the new swing of things. Yeah, it wasn't a fun job to do in my driveway at 9 at night with a flashlight in my mouth.

Got ya. Oh, and I did change this thing with a full tank of gas. The only fuel that was last was maybe a cup that was in the fuel nozzle itself.

I got the parts in yesterday. I had every intent on doing the job when I got home from work yesterday except it came a thunderstorm on my way home so I said screw it. 2 hours later I got stir crazy and decided to tackle the job. Aside from it being a real tight fit, it wasn't that bad. I did notice one thing between the old part and the new one. The old one had an orange flapper valve at the end of the neck where it met the gas tank hose and the other one did not. I didn't want to develop some issues where the pump would not kick off when fuel was almost full so I swapped it into the new one. Better safe than sorry. it caught me off guard because every post I read did not mention that valve.

Then yes, it will be susceptible to head gasket failure. Look under it for leaking coolant or oil as well as the overflow tank in the engine bay for gunk.

Are you throwing a check engine light? If so, go get the code pulled and bring the code back here and post it. What brand plugs and wires did you use?

Tom sent me a front embelm badge and two others in an envelope just like that. The panda bear is what seals the deal. Thanks again man!

It's not leaking sitting in the driveway right now. I just worry about it pouring all the fuel out when I take the old filler neck off.

I locked mine in my Brat when I went in to take a final at college a long time ago. I took a coat hanger, shoved it in the window and flicked the t-top latch down so I could open it from the inside, I then either used my hand or coat hanger to slide the latch over so I could remove it. I don't remember if I used the coat hanger to pull the keys from the ignition or just opened the door while lying on the roof. Of course, this depends on you having t-top.

Well, last night I changed my spark plugs, wires and pcv valve on my 95 Outback and decided I would drive it today to work. This morning I stopped and filled the tank up. Coming home, I backed into my driveway and noticed I was leaking fuel like crazy. I immediately remembered all the threads on the rusty fuel filler neck rusting out and figured it had bit me too. I jacked it up at the rear diff and took the plastic guard off. A person could grow vegetation in there due to all the crap. Since it is the holiday, I have to wait till Tuesday to order a filler neck from the parts dept. My main question: can I replace the filler neck without having to drain the tank? That thing is sitting just a smidge above full on the gauge and worried it would dump it out when I start to remove it.

http://www.cars101.com/impreza_archive99_01.html http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive98_99.html

Agreed. I have had nothing but good luck out of KYB parts.

I have zero experience with Monroe stuff. Here are the items they show for your car on Advance Auto's website. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory_Shocks,-Struts-Springs_-49997344_-49997327_10151_10051_-1___#storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&sortBy=5&categoryId=-49997344&searchTerm=&pageId=ajaxPartList&category=&keywords=Shocks%2C-Struts-Springs&l1_categoryId=&l2_categoryId=-49997327*-49997344&partType=&facetFields=%2CpriceBucket%2Cclearance%2Csale%2Cpart_type&beginIndex=0&filterValue=mfrName_exact%3AMonroe|Monroe&pageSize=10&filters=mfrName_exact%3AMonroe&selectedPartNumber=&qty=1&ship2HomeClicked=

I got a JVC tape deck unit I can mail for the same price.

What head unit did you buy? An aftermarket unit or another Subaru player?

Yeah, you would never notice a difference.

95: The ground clearance was 6.3", the same as the L Sport Wagon. I can't find info on the 96 but in 97 it was raised to 6.4"

Welcome sir. Just have to watch them when you do the in store pickup. Idiot at the Advance in the town where my wife is from tried to give me the loaner set of spring compressors.

Man, that makes me sad.

No offense is given nor should it be taken by my comment. I would never buy something like that, way too much done to it and like Miles says, it probably has been ran hard. Fact of these cars, you do the mods to run them harder. Granted, my STi has been at stage 2 for about 4 years. Catted downpipe, 3 inch turbo back, cobb AP. That's it. It has just enough mods to make it simple to put it back to stock in a day or a jumping point to build on. I would love to drive one with that PPG gearbox though, I bet that is sweet.