jacobs

I'll bet you $1000 I do. Just come here and I'll show you anytime....AND I'VE NEVER DONE ANY DRUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't forget to bring your money.....A FOOL AND HIS MONEY ARE SOON PARTED.

What's your fuel milage like? Your carburetor be running way too rich. Are you just making short trips? Your engine may not be warming up enough to evaporate the excess fuel required during startup.

Flat level ground, 55mph, timing advanced, driving like there's an egg between the gas pedal and foot, and leaned carburetor (jet change).

Dup

Even the Rochester Quadrajet was priced about the same in 1966 and in my opinion it's much more complex and better than a Hitachi. I like carburetors including the Hitachi because I understand them, can rebuild them very easly, and fine tune them including changing metering to suit my needs. I've changed jets and or metering rods in every carburetor I've used since 1970. This is one reason my vehicles get the fuel milage they do. I still believe $600 is INSANE for ANY carburetor.

I’m positive I’ll never convince GD anything since his mind is already made up but I have kept accurate documentation of all fuel purchased for all vehicles for many years. I can tell you exactly how many gallons of fuel I have burned in each of my vehicles. Due to this fact, I know what my fuel milage is, there isn’t any guessing or stretching the truth. Like I said, GD doesn’t believe it, never will and I really don’t care. And by the way, all my Subs are 4x4.

GD, Sorry for the misunderstanding if I came across that carbs are better. I didn't mean to say or imply that. If one size fit all, there would be only one car manufacturer making one model that never changes. I have three EA82's all with carbs and they have served me very reliably and they consistantly give me 36-42 mpg highway. You're right in that I don't want to learn about FI...Why should I when the stock carbs have been so good to me?

I purchased a new 4 barrel carburetor from the local Chevy dealer for $25 in 1966. Using the inflation calculator at http://westegg.com/inflation/ the 2005 price should be $146.46. This is for a high performance carburetor! $600 for a simple little Subaru carb? What is this world coming to? This is insanity!

Yes, I know that’s the going rate for a carb rebuild, but it’s beyond me how anyone with a clear conscience could charge anywhere that much.......TOTALLY UNREASONABLE!!! I’ve only rebuilt one carb that was difficult enough to charge over $100 and it wasn’t a Subaru, and then I only charged the guy for the rebuild kit.

I purchased a 1986 carbureted EA82 in 1989 with 30,000 miles and presently have 375,000 miles on it. The only carburetor problem I've ever had was I had to replace the accelerator pump about 4 years ago and it was easy and cheep to replace. Personally, I'll take a carburetor over FI any day. I doubt if anyone with FI has had that kind of dependability.

You have a golf course with a bunch of golf carts?

I've never tried it but...can't you just press the hub on further to match the old one or use washers as spacers?

I don't think you even need a fan there unless you have AC and get stuck in traffic. If I'm wrong....someone correct me!

The earliest I recall seeing a PCV was on a military Jeep either WW2 or Korean Conflict vintage. It was used to help keep water out of the engine when fording rivers.

After reading these posts, it's obvious some aren't comprehending the importance of the muffler bearing. Here's where I purchase my muffler bearings AND BE SURE TO CLICK ON THE REVIEWS LINK FOR MORE INFO. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10

WOW! I think I'll mount a 4x8' sheet of plywood in front of my Roo. On the second thought, how bout a sheet of plexiglass.

The biggest problem is that Subaru never put grease Zerks on em to grease the muffler bearings.

Years ago while wrenching for a contractor, I made the comment to the foreman I need a new (I don't remember what it was) to repair a truck. He replied "Are you a mechanic or a parts changer?" If a person really thinks about the problem, you can usually find a simple and cheep solution.

My cows produce more emissions with their gas than a handful of automobiles with ALL their emisssions control devices removed. When people start reducing their beef consumption to help the enviroment, I'll take automobile emissions much more seriously.

If everyone that is on these automobile forums removed their egr's, it would be an extreemly small percentage increase in total emissions into the air. It's not going to harm ANYONE.

I'd drive forward, and stop. Then backup and stop. Repeat the process several times and if you hear the clunk everytime, I'm sure you just need to adjust your brakes. Edit: If you're brakes are so out of adjustment that they clunk, then you should pull the drums and inspect them. Chances are you need new brakes and.......?

The rear has tapered roller bearings but the front has ball bearings. Due to the increased bearing surface area, tapered roller bearings will handle much greater loading and last much longer than ball bearings. If you want long lasting front wheel bearings, redesign the hubs for tapered roller bearings.

If Tesla’s most important inventions hadn’t been covered up by big business, this world would be MUCH different today.

Chevrolet and GMC 3/4 ton wheels are 8 hole. All 1/2 tons until 1970 were 6 hole. After that, only 1/2 ton 4x4's were 6 hole and 2x4's were 5 hole.

Some still believe it! http://www.alaska.net/~clund/e_djublonskopf/FlatHome.htm