Manarius

$400 for a wheel bearing? Really? That should be more like $150 or less (assuming you provide the parts).

I don't think an ailing PCV valve would cause that much consumption. I would look for other sources of leaking.

I feel like cleaning out an 'older' engine is a bad move. I wouldn't want to do anything that could potentially disrupt things that have already worn into the engine. I wouldn't want to disturb some of the dirt that has surrounded the rubber seals and makes them seal better. If you stick in some "cleaning" solution, you might end up finding a small leak of oil for yourself post cleaning.

As long as it's the same type of clutch and same final drive, any 5MT should do. Beware though that after 98-99, they changed the bellhousing so that it has more bolts. The bolts still lineup okay, but the old bellhousing has less bolts.

This. The belt is loose.

Pretty sure that they discontinued the hill-holder after 99. Great feature, definitely is missed.

You need a new MAF or to try to clean the one you have.

And if I recall correctly, all you need to fix that is a good wire-tie or paper clip. (It's been so long since I fixed them, I forget now ) I found the link! http://webspace.webring.com/people/sh/hobiegary/locks.html

Just FYI, assuming that the tank for the power steering pump is right on top of the pump, then there is a small gasket that fits between the tank and the pump. It's $2ish from the dealer. That is probably the source of the leak.

I don't think putting a rag in a part of the intake is a very good idea. Either use JB Weld or something to put it back on or just seal the hole. Either way, a loose rag is not a good idea. Otherwise, you're asking for this: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=311931

I had someone tell me once that the right rear tire in an AWD system is going to be the one that wears the most. I didn't really get an explanation, but maybe this is semi-normal behavior?

OEM or Aftermarket? OEM, I use 1st Subaru Parts or Subaru Genuine Parts Aftermarket, I use RockAuto If the fuel filter is replaced and not the issue; I'd check Spark Plugs and wires. I don't think the coil is at issue here. If those don't fix it, my next vote is MAF. When my MAF failed, it bogged pretty bad.

I'd say that once I started taking things apart, I had everything back together after an hour of tinkering and looking around. It really isn't all that complicated; just don't lose any of the screws! It might be easier if you remove the driver's seat as well. On that car, it's probably only 4 big bolts.

Roaring that changes with speed almost always a wheel bearing

Why do you have 75 series tires on that car? I'm pretty sure the panel on the door calls for 60 series tires (Tire Rack says 70 series). That would be why your car jumps all over the place. Switch to a lower profile, I think you'll tighten up your car a little.

If it's anything like my 95 SVX and 91 Legacy, it's a rather large bulb. I just started unscrewing the middle panel around the shifter until I could pry it up enough to pull out the bulb. Just go to Radioshack and buy the same bulb; 12 volts. Both were on the driver's side of that middle piece of plastic. There may be some screws in the bottom of the box between the seats.

Piston slap? Sound comes from the same general area.

When my mechanic fixed my exhaust, in addition to replacing the gasket and the bolts, he used a racheting strap to tighten the exhaust then tightened the bolts.

Piston Slap.

Subaru will rape you on pads. Napa, Autozone, Advance Auto, all sufficient for a Turbo Legacy. You need not suck up the extra fluid. Just remove the cap and watch to make sure it doesn't overflow. If it does, you have too much in there anyway.

Yup, the MAF is definitely your problem. When mine went bad, the last stage of its demise was that the car was reluctant to start and then finally didn't start at all. Compressed air is NOT the way to clean a MAF. MAF cleaner or a gentle method.

Well, they sell dedicated MAF cleaner at your favorite auto store. I just usually use like 97 or 99 % rubbing alcohol, a q-tip, and a gentle hand.

I'd suggest replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor. The ECU uses this to determine the temp of the engine in order to decide on fuel/air ratios. Usually, if the CTS breaks, the ECU defaults back to cold, which is why the car runs poor/won't start when warm.

192k? MAF's dead. Cleaning it may help. It may not. I'd be on the hunt for a cheap replacement/one to borrow to confirm diagnosis. I think the kind of acceleration hesitation you feel is due to the engine constantly misfiring at low RPM's, not because the transmission is holding it back. Does it buck under load? Rough idle? Shuts off randomly?

I searched the OEM catalog, I can't even find a wheel bearing for non-4wd.