Manarius

Could be no fuel either. You should check to make sure that you actually have fuel pressure. This can be done by removing the "in line" that goes to the fuel filter, sticking it in a bucket, and trying to start the car. If the bucket has gas in it, you know you have fuel. Things I always start with when it comes to a car that won't start is gas and spark. Pull a plug to see if it sparks and check to make sure you have fuel pressure. If the timing belt is broken, as Gary mentioned, that will make your startup impossible, so check that first as that's the easiest

5 Speed or auto? If it's auto, there's a hole near the top of the trans to stick a screwdriver in to stop the flywheel from moving. With the 5MT, you can just stick the car in gear. Then use very large cheater bar and it should come off easily.

Seriously. The brat could be dual range with 4WD as opposed to AWD, but it still would have trouble where the SVX (having a rear LSD) would not. Granted, the SVX is a purely on-road venture, but the point still stands.

Since it's cable driven, I would assume you'd have to swap the actual speedo gear in the transmission in order to fix such a big speed difference (although, using different tires/wheels may help as well).

Just like every other 1990's Subaru car, the SVX has the parking light switch. On this car, it just happens to be next to the heated mirrors switch. I think it's awful hard to hit by chance as I rarely ever use my heated mirrors. As for the foglights, if they are staying on when the headlights are off, then you've got some serious wiring issues you need to address. SOP for the foglights is that they don't work unless the headlight lowbeams are turned on. And in that case, the lowbeams are wired such that they will not stay on if the key is not in the "ON" position. By the way, the SVX is a GREAT car in the snow and ice. Put a good set of snow tires on it and it just won't stop. My SVX, even with crappy summer tires, plowed through 4 or 5 inches of snow without a problem. Remember, the SVX has a rear LSD, so it has another wheel in the back that your BRAT probably doesn't have (unless you put a LSD on it).

Yeah, the biggest problem with the H6 is lack of room in the engine compartment to work. Otherwise, doing the work is just as easy as the H4. (Granted, you're talking about the EZ30, but the EG33 is just the same way).

My SVX's refrigerant seems to leak out every winter and I have to recharge the system every spring/summer...

Aside from the SVX and the newer cars, Subaru has always been about the single exhaust. Always out the driver's side. One of the many complaints with the new Impreza design is that the new design has dual exhaust output which from a physics standpoint is not as good as the single outlet design.

Struts. They're old. I mean, of course the sway-bar joints are shot too, but they're not going to cause the same kind of sway that old struts will.

The person driving it has two at fault accidents within the past three years. My SVX is older, but I'm 21 and it's a rare car. The insurance on them is notoriously high.

Hmm. From Erie Insurance, I could have my SVX and my mom's 2008 Impala both with collision and good coverage for 100 a month. And I'm 21....you guys must all have a lot of accidents.

No. SVX Rear (Pure Awesomeness): Hyundai Sonata: 2010 Legacy Ugliness: There's much Hyundai with this one.

Yeah, going to heavy duty wiring is really the only option when it comes to increasing wattage.

Transmission is probably shot - which is why the person is only asking 1100.

The housings will probably be fine. The connectors on the other hand though might not be. I've been running 100w H3 bulbs on my SVX for a while now and the connectors appear to be just fine. Maybe I'm just lucky. I'm going to swap to HID's anyway.

Eh, my guess is that transmission just needs replaced.

Are you sure that the MAF you pulled out of the junk car was good as well? I'd really want to test it against a known good MAF.

The trouble with any Impreza...heck any Subaru pre 2008 is that they have no window frames. The only time I've seen "ventshades" on a Subaru of that era were ones that came straight from Japan.

Might be signs of a coilpack going bad.

It seems to me that if you aren't going to at least run the cones into the fender, there's no point in wasting your time. Having air intake from under the hood is a waste because the hot air provides worse HP than the stock intake resonator. Also, it seems to me that the less restriction in the intake the better. But, the least restriction possible would be having only one pipe, not two. I mean, there's a reason that almost every intake system provides only 1 intake filter.

Well, for one, the engine that was in the 1997-1999 Legacy was also in the Impreza 2.5RS and Forester so... If you're *really that worried about HG issues, either get one that's been fixed or get a Legacy/Forester/Impreza after 2002. At that point in time, they had fixed the gasket issue. Or get a Legacy before 1997 or get one that has the 2.2.

Just as a wagon. Same with the Sunsport, Ti edition, Touring Wagon, etc.

It would probably be a good idea NOT to flog the WRX 5MT on that one if it's stock. The 02-03 WRX 5MT is known as a glass tranny for a reason.

I didn't know that. Good thing other people know more things than I do about these newer cars

I bet the CEL is being thrown for the VSS. The VSS is the speed sensor that tells the car how fast it's going. Hopefully, it's just that the sensor broke. However, some transmissions break the little plastic gear inside the tranny and that in turn throws off the VSS and makes your car throw a CEL. Replacing that gear is a very time involved job. The sensor isn't as bad. The first thing I'd do is make sure the speedo cable is plugged into the cluster okay. After that though...