Manarius

Yeah, because in the UK, they drive on the left! RHD cars! I will get a whole army of Legacy guys to tell you that using RHD lights on your car is a bad idea if you want.They blind oncoming drivers because they are AIMED THE WRONG DIRECTION. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=25838&highlight=jdm+lights http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16366&highlight=jdm+lights

And I'm sure all the drivers in your area love you at night because you drive around with headlamps aimed the wrong way. Remember, JDM headlights are designed for RHD implementation. There's no amount of aiming that can change the beam pattern. If you want bright lights, try to get your hands on some LHD headlamps from Europe. Europe has stricter (better) light standards than we do.

I drove over the bridge where that happened a few days ago. Granted, that movie has been reposted like a 1000 times.

As I recall, code 23 is the MAF. Which is what I think you're having problems with. My car, when the MAF was bad, would run okay when cold then as it got warmer, would start to run worse until it eventually would die on me.

Did you check the CEL code? I bet it will say Code 23.

The 2.2's aren't really known for giving up headgaskets. I think it'd be pretty obvious if it was (oil in the coolant tank, obvious smoke, loss of overall coolant). I think you have some leak that is high pressure like you mentioned.

Turbo 400HP H6 = bad mpg = won't sell in the US. Remember, the SVX flopped.

That tail is still ugly as crap. Good mpg though.

VLSD's do wear out eventually. If yours has a lot of miles, I bet it's worn out.

Have you checked the connector behind the headlight to make sure it's tight? If that's not loose, I'd say the bulb needs to be replaced.

All the cars that I've been in that have been stuck in gear have been clutch or linkage related issues as well. Never heard of a differential getting stuck.

The SUS is just the Outback Sedan.

Yes. There should be a shroud put in so that you aren't sucking in warm engine air. Maybe some sort of ram-air intake that sucks in straight from where the grille is? Is there some gain? Well, the car will be louder. Some people say there's gain - I don't know if I necessarily agree with that. I think if there is any, it would be minimal at best. Exhaust work would definitely be needed to make the CAI worth your time.

I put my lugnuts on as tight as I can make them. From what I figure, that's about 100ft-lbs. I'm not as strong as an airgun, and tighter is better (so the lugs don't back off), so I tighten as tight as I can make them. Never warped or broke anything yet.

I second what GeneralDisorder said. You don't NEED to have PT4WD. AWD is just as good.

MAF troubles maybe... Plugs are cheaper though (but more of a PITA to do)

I think really the only benefit here is the baffle delete that occurred. That is to say, in the stock intake air line, it's not exactly the best curvature or smooth surface. This intake definitely does a better job in that regard. I would much rather to have seen the box be kept, but the metal intake line put in. The stock airbox flows quite nicely and actually gets cold air. This "CAI" actually sucks in hot air from the engine bay...

No. The body styles are different in the front. A 93 will NOT fit a 90.

kbb is extremely inflated. Edmunds is far more accurate as to what you'll actually get for the car in the real world. (kbb says my 174k SVX is worth 4500...)

Subaru played to the rice crowd with this iteration of the Impreza.

Eh. I didn't notice he said front of the engine. If it's just a little bit of oil - it happens. Just check it so that you don't run low.

Headgaskets don't seep oil. Valve cover gaskets do. A much cheaper job.

Nothing to be concerned about. The 4EAT won't shift into 4th until the internal transmission temperature is about 50F.

ericem has proposed that as a solution to vibration at idle while in drive as well. I have gone over this before: When you're holding the car from moving (which you are if you're at a stop light and the car is in drive and you're holding the brake) something has to give in the drivetrain system. The car cannot just absorb all the vibration from the motor trying to move the car and you not letting it do so. Aftermarket axles have absolutely NOTHING to do with this phenomenon as every Subaru with AWD that I've driven has done it - and I know that my SVX has all original axles and it vibrates enough that I can notice it. To the OP: If you pop the car in neutral I bet this vibration goes away? If so, my theory is confirmed on the matter (like it has been on every other Subaru I've driven). You might be able to nail it down to a transmission mount or something, but for something that can be fixed by going into neutral, you might as well do that because it'll cost a lot less.

The EG33 is a good motor too! They have almost the same stats as the EJ22 in terms of longevity.