Manarius

It wouldn't have the same gearing. Hence why I said to swap the carrier and all the LSD business out of the SVX diff into the Legacy diff. SVX's do end up in junkyards quite frequently because once their transmissions grenade, people just junk them.

I have a set of Neoprene blades on my SVX. They still work very nicely even after over two years of being on the car.

If you're really interested in an LSD, you could try to take the carrier and stuff out of an SVX rear LSD and swap that into the Legacy LSD.

Brown sensor in this picture:

Most of the time with somewhere near a 53 offset.

Warp brake rotors due to overtightened lugs? I would think not. The rotors would need some sort of source of pressure and/or a bit of heat to warp. I don't see where that pressure could come from, so it would be then obvious that they would need heat to be warped. Well, heat doesn't come from over-tightening lug nuts.

Sounds to me like it needs recharged. The system needs to be charged correctly in order for it to run continuously.

If it's not the relay, did they try even just replacing the entire compressor? Heck for $1000 the whole darn compressor could have been replaced.

Most of the older radios (aside from those in the 1990-1994 Legacy's) don't have any sort of aux setup on the radio. Not even an AUX radio setting. However, the upper model radios in the 1990-1994 Legacy's had built in AUX 3.5mm jacks. The SVX didn't even get this radio (IMO, the SVX got a worse radio, but they didn't want to put a double din radio in the SVX and it not have a CD player).

That's the question I had too. I came to the same answer as GD.

For the 96's, a setup called "Morettes" were available for the car in Japan. Unfortunately, due to their beam pattern (Japanese drive on the left), they blind oncoming drivers in this country. My suggestion would me to wire up some relays for your headlights and go with some huge fog lamps if you need lighting that badly.

The trouble with aftermarket ones is that sometimes they don't provide the range of motion that the OEM ones do. I'm not saying to just straight up buy OEM ones, but it is something worth considering. Have you tried rockauto.com?

The car is MPFI and distributor-less - cap and rotor need not apply.

I remember a member here pulling apart his fuel gauge senders, replacing them and having them go rusty and go bad merely a year later. I just deal with the gas gauge being off because fixing it is a prohibitively expensive task.

You can also buy the bolts from Subaru for like 2 bucks a piece.

The caliper, rotor, and pads on that car are all extremely easy. All you need to do is take off the rim, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on (these are like 15mm), and the rotor will come right off. For a first time, I'd say you'd need an hour at most. The biggest pita will probably be bleeding the caliper.

If I can do the plugs on the SVX without removing engine mounts or paying someone to do it, you can do the ones on your Legacy. Although, I disagree to pull plugs at 30k miles. That seems like a big waste of money on plugs which are meant to last 100k miles. Platinum plugs last that long if not longer.

Importing JDM cars into the US is virtually impossible. Generally, people import them into Canada and try to get them past the border.

NA, 2.2, FWD if I recall correctly.

I want your car.

I've mashed the brakes in my heavy SVX many times and NEVER gotten the ABS to come on unless there was snow on the ground. The one time I was afraid with ABS, it was because I made the mistake of going too fast when there was a very small amount of snow on the ground the ABS kicked in. I would have locked if I didn't have it and probably would have hit a tree or a parked car if I didn't have the ABS.

All Wheel Drive is a must. I've driven 2WD cars before and nothing beats the traction of AWD.

Is it wind noise? Maybe one of the door gaskets isn't seated properly.

That's what I was thinking as well. When one of the bulbs has too much resistance, that causes the system to blink faster.